Diapositive 1

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new markers for beauty
Semiotic watch EUROPE AMERICA ASIA January
2006
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methodological principle
Observe
society and consumers through a comparative
study of themed press digests from the
Information Centre, and daily consultations with
a panel representing the French and international
press
Keep an eye open for new expressions, new
practices and new cultures, with the aim of
constructing a prospective vision of
sociocultural trends
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methodological principle
Analyze
advertising and creativitydrawing on our
database, which indexes and describes
advertisements in all media in France and in
over 25 countries in Europe, America and Asia
Apply the idea that the effectiveness of
advertising is based on a genuine architecture of
linguistic, iconic and staged messages, whose
mechanisms and functioning we explore
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methodological principle
Understand and anticipate
the communications strategies of a brand, a
market, a target or a medium via comparative
analysis of advertising messages and the
sociocultural context
Keep you informed about developments in your
market and about the strategic orientations of
competing brands strengths, weaknesses and local
or transnational adaptations
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our analytical tools
Themed press digests
Observe
We keep a global and thematic watch on
developments in society, based on monitoring the
daily press and French magazines. In this way, we
glean editorial insights, drawn up by the
Information Centre of TNS Media Intelligence,
which we incorporate into our advertising
analyses.
TNS CREATIVE EXPLORER
Analyze
TNS Media Intelligence feeds into the unique TNS
CREATIVE EXPLORER database, which monitors
advertising in France in all media (press,
television, billboards, radio, and the Internet)
as well as international press and TV
communications in over 25 countries.
Semiology
Understand
Our techniques are drawn from the whole field of
human sciences semiotics, semantics, sociology,
and more. In this way, we explain the structure
of the pitch, its linguistic and visual
coherence, the expressive value of its
significant features (images and text), and the
sociocultural ideals it constructs, so as to
assemble an objective point of view for your
consideration.
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notes on semiotic analysis
Semiotic analysis looks at signs, at the
relationships between them and at the conditions
in which messages are produced in this case,
examining comparisons between the various media
and advertising messages on beauty that appeared
in 2005. The principle is to understand and
conceptualize the communications situation and to
clarify the relationships between competing
brands so as to strengthen the relevance of the
messages conveyed. Semiotic analysis is a
comparative study of linguistic, iconic, and
staged messages conveyed at a given moment
(comparative study of senders).
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international beauty watch for 2005
Deciphering strategic developments in the beauty
sector hygiene, care, make-up (perfume) by
analyzing of advertising messages
The concepts, codes, tones, and values generated
by brands in the sector are analyzed as a range
of clues so as to gain a better understanding and
anticipation of forthcoming strategies
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international beauty watch
Analysis of advertising messages from the
principal brands exclusive, pharmaceutical and
mass market (hygiene, make-up and care) in
2004-2005 in about a dozen countries.
What feminine identities are there, and how do
they relate to beauty? What ideals are associated
with the products? What developments have
occurred in messages from international brands?
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from selecting an international and global corpus
in 2004-2005
ZONES EUROPE, AMERICA, ASIA France, the UK,
Germany, Italy, Spain, the Netherlands,USA,
Mexico, Brazil, China, Taiwan, Korea and Japan
IDEALS FACE, BODY, HAIRvia systemic analyses of
representations
MARKETS HYGIENE, CARE, MAKE-UP via a broad
corpus covering the main campaigns in the press
and on television
2,500 press advertisements and over 500
television clips
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to a global vision of the latest developments
in your markets
Trends giving structure to advertising messages
Systemic analysis of representations
Body
Face
Hair
- Report on niche strategies natural
beauty/designer brands- Recap of the strategies
of selected mass market brands
Specific communication territories by country
and brand
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exploration in three stages

• KEY TRENDS IN BEAUTY
• exploration of communication trends
• ANALYSIS OF REALMS OF BEAUTY semiotic analysis
  of representations of
• faces, bodies, and hair
• COUNTRIES AND KEY BRANDS exploration of
  countries and key brands

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? key trends in beauty
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market context in 2005 three key points to
remember

• The performance dimension of beauty products has
  become more radical because of direct competition
  with cosmetic surgery and medicine (injections,
  laser treatment, peeling, dermabrasion, etc.)
• The global dimension of well-being and the
  development of the concept of healthy beauty,
  which also comes from diet, spas, beauticians,
  sports, etc.
• The more radical dimension of the competition
  between distribution networks attrition of
  perfumeries and supermarkets versus the rise of
  direct sales, pharmacies and discount chemists

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three points that influence ideals of beauty

• Product concepts and approaches to
  communicationsinfluenced by cosmetic surgery and
  medicine (injections and dermatological
  treatments)
• Product concepts and approaches to
  communicationsinfluenced by dietary trends, new
  fashions linked to well-being, and sports
• The various distribution networks borrow
  strategies and differentiate their communication
  codes in line with solid values health, ecology,
  dermatology, value for money, etc.

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in a sociological context of schizophrenic
identity
RESPECT, RECONNECTION, HUMILITY
EFFORT, STRUGGLE, SELF-IMPROVEMENT
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in a sociological context of schizophrenic
identity
VALUE FOR MONEY
EXTREME LUXURY
LExpress 17/01/2005
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three guiding structures for messages on beauty
synthaesthetic distrust self-affirmation
exploring all possibilities naturalistic
redemption self-discovery the quest for
authenticity and harmony consumerist
transparency redefining value new contracts
with brands
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three main types of message staged by brands
TRANSPARENT MESSAGE make choice objective,
withtransparency and fair prices
DISTRUSTFUL MESSAGE the battle for beauty,
withbrand and consumer togetheragainst the
environment
EMPHATIC BRANDpower of the product
PHATIC BRANDcontract of confidence
REDEMPTIVE MESSAGE reinventing a
harmoniousbrand/consumer/environment
relationship
ACHIEVING OBJECTIVITY
OPTIMIZING
self-improvement
self-recognition
RECONCILING
self-discovery
EMPATHIC BRAND better way of life
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three ideals of beauty
2005
NATURALISTIC REDEMPTION
SYNTHAESTHETIC DISTRUST
Rediscovered beauty reconnection with nature
Invented beauty expressive hysteria
SCIENTIFIC DIMENSION
EXPRESSIVE DIMENSION
EXPRESSIVE DIMENSION
INTIMATE DIMENSION
SOCIAL DIMENSION
CONSUMERIST TRANSPARENCY
Beauty made objective new markers
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1 synthaesthetic distrust
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anxiety-inducing context

• Stress, pollution, unemployment and worries
  about staying healthy are all at the heart of the
  lifestyles of aging city-dwelling populations

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the medias injunction to be yourself

• A proliferation of broadcasts and books on
  self-discovery and the inner being is targeting a
  female audience

We all choose to reveal what we want about
ourselves, with a view to pointing up our
individual characteristics and surprising people.
In a world where we feel we have no control, at
least we can all decide how to project
ourselves. Serge Tisseron
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Defying nature
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the renewal of Promethean culture

• The dominant message in beauty is that of the
  protective mask or armour, which may be more
  radically expressed in the image of a combative
  woman, who has a presence on all fronts
  seductress, mother, manager, earner, and more.
• This Promethean culture is associated not only
  with performance ideals that are often
  medicalized, but also with working on oneself,
  to restrict or modify ones appearance a
  strategy focused on the beauty objective and in
  which the end justifies the means.

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beauty is a battle
ADIDAS 2005
IBM 2005
PONY 2004
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proliferation of urban combatants
JAPAN - REJUVENATION
JAPAN - VIDAL SASSO0N
INTER - UNILEVER
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the challenge of wild women their gaze has power
CHANEL
USA - INDIVIDUALITY
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the challenge of powerful women their gaze is
haughty
INTER - CLE DE PEAU
JAPAN - SUQQU
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women who wage war openly on time
JAPAN ROC
USA PONDS
FRANCE - LIERAC
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more radical claims from pharmaceutical brands
FRANCE - LIERAC
FRANCE - GATINEAU
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challenge for women who lie and deny their
true age
ITALIE OLAY
USA OLAY
UK OLAY
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the culture of everyday cosmetic surgery
VOGUE - 2005
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substitutes for surgical and dermatological
weapons
USA LOREAL PARIS
These ideals are becoming ever more widespread
among leading cosmetic brands and moving into
face, body and hair care
USA ANEW AVON
UK FINESSE
USA DIOR
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sloughing off the skin
ELLE Spring 2005
KOREA LOREAL
INTER LOREAL
ITALY LACOTE
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a new set of masks for women run off their feet
Shift from an architectural concept of beauty to
an instant-results, ephemeral concept
KOREA - OHUI
KOREA - OLAY
From applying yourself to beauty to beauty
you can apply
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synthetic faces manipulate them, throw them
away
JAPAN OBAGI
JAPAN CLINIQUE
GERMANY VICHY
UK T-ZONE
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outdoing Nature
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enter the new synthaesthetism
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enter the new synthaesthetism

• The idea of beauty recreated each day through
  a provisional, synthetic outfit.
• Powerful visual codes and exquisitely detailed
  representations of feminine outfits are combined
  with a philosophy of the ephemeral.
• A form of paradoxical hedonism, constructed to
  respond to a context of stress and anxiety
• A Zeitgeist that Gilles Lipovetsky sums up as
• A paradoxical blend of frivolity and anxiety

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make-up made radical
Femininity affirmed and naturalness replaced by
cosmetic effect. Symbols of masquerade and of
masked faces.
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reference to cross-dressing
An aesthetic inspired by the transgender
phenomenon, which explores the excessively
feminine impression made through ostentatious use
of cosmetics
Images courtesy of the escualita.com websote
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flash transformations
A relationship with time that breaks with the
Promethean culture of effort and merit,
preferring instead make-up and treatments that
produce instantaneous, spectacular effects
FRANCE - BIACTOL
FRANCE - GEMEY
FRANCE - DIOR
Elle, 7 November 2005 How to have beautiful hair
in less than one minute!
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the challenge of the intense gaze
The false look is in demand, showing the logic
behind extensions for eyelashes (the same logic
applies to hair and nail extensions)
UK LANCOME
CLINIQUE
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the challenge of the seductive mouth
Lipstick with an overflowing look
INTER LOREAL PARIS
LANCÔME USA
INTER - CLINIQUE
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the challenge of flaunted ears
The protruding ear look in Japan
SPAZIO
S CO - SHISEIDO
DIOR KISS
INOUI ID
GRARSEN
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diversity of unexpected colours
Synthetism of shapes and colours a break with
standard colours and natural cuts Affirmation of
playful and even libertarian hair fashion
Dove Inter 2005 range of playful metamorphoses
of hair
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abstraction of synthetic materials
Following the explosion of colours in the 1990s,
proliferation of messages and visual exploration
of textures in the 2000s
INTER - WELLAambiguous visual signature of hair
that is as artificial as any textile
Alien by JPG - the ideal of mutant beauty
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abstraction of vintage ideals
Vintage design and look regressive retro
marketing and the desire to play with different
periods, with a kitsch, caricaturing aspect, in a
spirit of parody, having fun with masks from
various times
USA OPI
USA PHYSICIANS FORMULA
INTER - BENEFIT
SPAIN LOREAL Paris
INTER - NARS
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wondrous ideals of fairies and witches
SPAIN - JESU DEL POZO
ITALY - GHD
UK ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Modern queens and fairies
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
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the renewal of dreaminess witches, princesses
and rap
KANEBO care range. SALA feel your beautySnow
White and the White Lady against a background of
French rap
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power of seduction magical and devastating
JAPAN ANGELHEART
JAPAN MAX FACTOR
JAPAN MAJOLICA MAJORCA
perfume in hair lethal glance magic dust
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smoothed-down seduction by brand muses
A smoothed-down look that wipes away the traces
of time, and styles the characters of actresses
associated with luxury brands
DEMI MOORE
MADONNA
EMMANUELLE BEART
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kitsch seduction

• A key trend associated with the cult of youth
  an ambiguous attitude that combines the curves of
  seduction with those of innocence

Numéro January 2005
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a key trend among teenagers

• Every day, the female subject looks for her own
  identity through powerful visual codes that
  distinguish her from the rest but link her to a
  group or tribe, constantly looking for strong
  codes of recognition

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teenagers
The female teenage target is highly receptive to
synthaesthetic representations, and rejects the
values of authenticity and realism. She shows
herself extremely sensitive to anglicisms and to
the techno-metallic aspects of the product.
The web-group of 15 to 20-year-olds surveyed are
into funny, light-hearted, off-beat ads. They
like the Nike and Puma campaigns, and Apples for
the iPod. but cant stand true-to-life images,
such as those of real women used by Dove.
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teen tribes
Virtual inspiration from manga representations
that refer to a synthetic, idealized body image
Tribal, cyberpunk inspirations that have broken
with conventional beauty with clearly marked
recognition codes
SCHWARZKOPF UK 2005
ADELE
BEYONCE
CK one 2005
SCHWARZKOPF
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SO A RETURN TO THE BASICS OF THE PRODUCT EFFECT
?

• This trend contains renewed representations of
  the performance of care products and make-up.
• The importance of the innovative design of
  textures and packaging, magic masks,
  extensions, etc.
• Powerful influence and omnipresent references
  to cosmetic surgery and medicine.
• Demands for new synthetic sensory experiences,
  breaking away from natural ideals.

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SO A CHANGE FROM PROMETHEAN CULTURE TO A
FASTER TEMPO

• Cosmetics no longer simply underline intrinsic
  beauty but feature as an extension of an
  ephemeral mood that needs to be made more
  radical
• Products that are effective immediately make
  reference to the idea of throwaway or
  single-use beauty
• - from one day to the next, theres a choice
  between tan or paleness, between red or pink
  hair, depending on the mood, with enormous
  freedom of expression
• - and spots and wrinkles can be thrown away like
  so much rubbish with an abstract, synthetic
  vision of beauty

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SO THE HYPERMODERN, HYPERCONSUMPTION CULTURE OF
THE SELF
A critique of a self-consuming society
nourished by advertising messages that invite us
to identify with a bundle of deniable
identities, orchestrated by the clinging and
eternally repositionable action of brands.
We have to banish the illusion that a real self
exists, an interior truth that is there from the
start. You are what you are allows belief in
the existence of this inalienable innate self, on
which everyone can rely as soon as it has been
identified, thus avoiding the need for constant
self-invention. In reality, the modern
individual comprises a multifaceted assembly a
building that is constantly under construction.
WITH THE RISK OF LOSING ONES IDENTITY
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2 naturalistic redemption
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enter new natural responses

• In 2005, we witnessed an explosion in the
  natural, for both product and communications
  concepts, as opposed to the Promethean culture of
  synthetic cosmetics.
• More and more, beauty is being perceived as a
  balance to be regained, in harmony with
  nature,under the influence of oriental
  philosophy.
• Nature is given new value as a guarantor, an
  inspiration and a response to the problems we
  face stress and pollution in particular.

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scale of the organic fashion phenomenon a refuge

• In reaction to the general climate of distrust,
  there is greater suspicion about how innocuous
  cosmetic products are, and an infatuation with
  organic cosmetics in the media

VOTRE BEAUTE - feature on ORGANIC, 2005
ELLE 18 April 2005
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a botanical wave sweeping over all sectors

• In fashion, distribution, cars, services, and
  more,the colour green and ecological problems
  are omnipresent

celebration of green themesin every medium
DANONE BIO 2005
EDF Green KW 2005
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a botanical wave sweeping over all sectors
FREEDENT HERBAL - May 2005

• The need to get back to nature

JALOUSE/eco-architects - JUNE 2005
LE MONDE MAY 2005 Universal Exposition in
Aichi, Japan in September 2005
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a wave thats settling in

• This botanical fashion is losing its seasonal
  character and becoming a basic theme all year
  round, and being linked more and more to the
  rediscovery of sensory values.

ELLE November 2005Green in Winter
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enter new natural responses

• Beyond the phenomenon of trendiness, various
  fields of communication are appearing and
  constructing new messages about natural
  efficacy - a militant dimension in favour of a
  naturalistic ethic, associated with a message
  about the effectiveness of the global approach
• - a narcissistic dimension of sensory
  comfort,associated with the effectiveness of
  oral consumption of natural products
• - a dimension of reconciliation between science
  and nature, which some brands are adopting as
  their own territory

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space and time rediscovered
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the naturalistic ethic and the body as an
ecosystem

• The idea of reconciliation between beauty and
  nature follows a militant philosophy and affirms
  respect for life.
• Skin appears as a major preoccupation in every
  country living skin, breathing skin, skin as an
  ecosystem to be respected.

USA DOVE Lets leave the oil in your hair
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the body as ecosystem and living skin

• The idea is to stimulate the natural functions of
  the skin and help it to regain its balance and
  regenerate itself from the skin as an object to
  the skin as a subject
• An educational exploration of this function from
  Yves Rocher

FRANCE YVES ROCHER plant serum
Recreating a story a damaged acacia from Senegal
The focus is first on the acacia, then on the
skin, which recreates its own collagen
The humility of the brand,which only isolates
and decodes the plant polysaccharides
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the body as ecosystem and living skin

• The symbol of the tree is associated with a model
  of balance (transpiration sprouting of leaves
  anchoring of roots)

ITALY LERBOLARIO
The Japanese cypress, a tree of beauty. A skin
protected by nature.
JAPAN RIUP
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the power of nature captured and domesticated

• Militant naturalistic strategies from Brazilian
  brands such as Natura and Bioextratus, which
  demonstrate that nature is beneficial and
  all-powerful

BRAZIL BIOEXTRATUS
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the power of nature captured and domesticated

• Magical domestication of nature in Asia
  (especially in Korea and Taiwan)

KOREA BOOTS
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the power of nature captured and domesticated

• Provençal roots an international fashion
  phenomenon

TAIWAN INNIS with lavender
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the power of nature rooted in folklore

• Provençal roots cultivating the myth through the
  tale of our origins

TAIWAN LOCCITANE essence of immortelle
(strawflowers)
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the power of nature rooted in folklore

• Brazilian roots cultivating the myth through the
  tale of our origins

FRANCE NATURA advertisement for the first
shop in Paris
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drawing on new resources quite simply
Reaffirming the basics of a healthy life for the
skin HYDRATION and SLEEP
USA VASELINE
USA OLAY
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the need for new resources and the search for
isolation
The fantasy of isolation in editorial material
all the better to rediscover oneself
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rediscovering the benefits of ceremony
Tea ceremony and wine tasting all the better to
rediscover oneself
JAPAN MISIA
NETHERLANDS SHISEIDO
JAPAN NIVEA
JAPAN ELIXIR SHISEIDO
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rediscovering the benefits of ceremony
Visual codes conveying authenticity and
tradition all the better to rediscover oneself
JAPAN PELICAN
JAPAN DOVE
FRANCE THE ART OF KI BY KENZO
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the need for new resources and search for
authenticity
The isolation of spas thermal treatments all
the better to rediscover oneself
UK EVIAN
JAPAN AVENE
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rediscovering ceremonies and the body as
ecosystem
Softness and respect for life
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recreating ceremonies and the body as ecosystem
Metaphors of nourishment and respect for life
ITALY - LACTACYD
ITALY - THE BODY SHOP
ITALY - AVEENO
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respect and adapted ceremonies
Targeted rituals and respect for every part of
the body
TECHNIKART Mademoiselle Summer 2005
UK - OPI
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sensory natureand balance
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efficacy of cosmeto-foods
Strong presence in editorial matter of
anti-aging diets and cosmeto-foods magnesium,
calcium, omega-3
Jalouse, August 2005
Japanese food medicine
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efficacy of the cure
The cure themecustom dietetic programmesto be
beautiful from the inside out
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sensory character and simplicity of consuming
nature
Vitality and balance of a plant diet, associated
with fresh fruit and vegetables
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balanced diet and beneficial ingredients
Vitality and balance soy, carrots, honey
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nutritive and balancing dimension
Message on balance the need to nourish skin and
hair from inside as well as outside
JAPAN - RMK
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foodie therapy
Sensory message idea of stimulating endorphins
(pleasure molecules),and the fashion phenomenon
of chocolate in Europe, Asia and America
UK
GERMANY
FRANCE
JAPAN Cocoa Therapy
USA - Lubriderm
Spain - CHOCOTHERAPY
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foodie therapy
Sensory message idea of stimulating endorphins
(pleasure molecules),and the fashion phenomenon
of cherries in Europe, Asia and America
FRANCE TIMOTEI SENSATION CERISE
JAPAN NINA RICCI
RUSSIA TIMOTEI SENSATION CERISE
ITALY PERLIER
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luxury and simplicity of a pure, rare
ingredient
Luxury cosmetic approach, precious, rare
naturalness creams based on roses, orchids, and
immortelles (strawflowers)
Echoed in editorial pieces Dr Hauschkas rose
cream,Doux me white rose, the Weleda rose
range, and so on
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luxury and simplicity of Dr brands
A more mysterious approach, using an unusual
plant Dr Weils treatments based on mushrooms
USA Dr Weil
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science and nature reconciled
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alternative or new alliance? science and nature

• Two types of cosmetics are often played off
  against one another in editorial pieces, while
  advertisements are roughing out messages of a new
  alliance along the lines of Yves Rocher, for
  example

USA ANEW from AVON
Elle November 2005
Votre Beauté May 2005
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new alliance science and nature
battling against received wisdom
USA ANEW from AVON
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new alliance science and nature

• Double message from Aveeno naturalistic
  seduction and scientific efficacy

USA - AVEENO THE LEADER IN ACTIVE NATURALS
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new alliance care make-up

• Neutrogenas differentiation strategy between
  dirty, polluting cosmetics and clean, respectful
  ones the Rethink campaign

INTER NEUTROGENA
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new alliance care make-up

• Regular mentions of the care dimension from many
  brands

SPAIN HELENA RUBINSTEIN lipstick with royal
jelly
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SO A TREND STIMULATED BY URBAN STRESS AND THE
SEARCH FOR ROOTS
?

• Back to the basics of balance, powerfully
  influenced by Zen ideals respecting,
  nourishing, moisturizing, resting
• Idealization of nature as fantasy plants,
  water, minerals
• The power of trees, fruit, flowers
• New roots in ingredients and/or areas that are
  benefiting from the fashion effect
• Nevertheless, a risk of bourgeois-bohemian
  baggage, which may drag the phenomenon back
  to folklore

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3 consumerist transparency
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enter new pragmatic responses

• In opposition to the synthaesthetic spiral, and
  also with suspicion about naturalistic
  redemption, a third pragmatic trend developed in
  2005.
• This is based on heightened consumerist vigilance
  in a climate of distrust of the consumer society
  and the beauty industry criticism of the system,
  of pronouncements on beauty, of parabens, of
  sunscreen, and so on.
• This trend of denouncing myths and habits is
  exploited by some brands, which vaunt their
  functionalism, their service, or the value for
  money they give.

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back to the product
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performance made into an objective criterion

• In 2005, the influence of low-cost models in
  marketing and communications also affected
  beauty, with the idea that a brand can also be
  misleading or booby-trapped and that a consumer
  can make an objective choice.
• Dominique Quessada and Benoit Heilbrunn theorize
  about this new suspicion as a crisis in the
  semiotic contract, linked to the loss of
  credibility of advertising, which may be
  over-used and contain promises without real
  foundation.
• This rising trend in many sectors (e.g. the
  Renault Logan ultra-cheap car, supermarket
  own-brand foods and hard discounting) has also
  proved to be a new field of expression for some
  beauty brands.

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relative to futuristic and magical weapons
UK LANCOME
FRANCE SHISEIDO
JAPAN - REVITAL
JAPAN ON THE PEAK
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and also relative to the Dr brand
medicalized weapons
The rise of small supermarket own-brands and of
Doctor brands
USA FREEZE
USA FRANCE - STRIVECTIN
ITALY, KOREA ANTI-WRINKLE CARE 2005
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the emergence of new pragmatic approaches
UK BOOTS
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back to the product service efficiency

• One measure of the service provided a lasting
  product effect

UK CLAIROL
UK BOOTS
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back to the product freshness of the ingredients

• Performance demonstrated in a playful comparative
  way in Brazil

BRAZIL ROSE
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back to the product minimalist illustrations

• Product benefits illustrated along the lines of
  the minimalist communications used by Clinique

UK DOVE
USA INFUSIUM
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back to the product and minimalist messages

• Wisdom and complicity based on popular sayings

UK BIORE
USA OLAY
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multi-purpose products and functional simplicity

• Catching the eye with a combined vision of care
  from Lierac

France LIERAC
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all-purpose products and functional simplicity

• The idea of an action that makes life simpler

GERMANY FREI
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multi-purpose products and functional simplicity

• The idea of clearing out the bathroom
  cupboardand so making life simpler

USA OLAY
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pro performance and functional simplicity
The promise of getting the same results at home
INTER DOVE
122
adapting pro tools to the general public
The promise of getting the same results at home
Elle 7 November 2005 Youre the pro! pro
anti-cellulite equipment tooth whitening streaks
and brushing home peeling, etc.
Botox
peeling
wrinkle treatment
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performance of home-made beauty recipes
The promise of getting the same results at home
Elle 7 November 2005
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performance of home-made products
Consumerist criticism a move back to the
simplicity of all things hand-made revival of
handicrafts and personal creativity the creative
nature of the object designed as a remaking of
the self and a mirror of the self.
Les échos 2005
The Happy Victims Exhibition by Kyoichi Tsusuki
in 2004 Critique of identity construction
focused on appropriating objects and the
requirement that they be reproducible, in the
vicious circle of I consume, therefore I am.
The revival of knittingElle 2005
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reaction from the pros denouncing home-made
A new defence of professionalism, especially in
the hairdressing sector defensive messages about
professional expertise
UK, USA - TRESSEME
JAPAN MODS HAIR
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reactions from pros
Exclusivity only in salons or from experts
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relaxation and realism
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simplifying beauty more realistic messages

• A militant movement launched by Olay and Dove in
  the English-speaking world, with a less
  stereotypical vision of beauty, and more
  realistic representations of skin

USA DOVE
129
tolerance and realism

• Age sublimated meaning, experience, blossoming
  a message which is also gaining currency in the
  up-market sector

FRANCE ROC
FRANCE AND UK - CLARINS
UK - CLINIQUE
JAPAN - ICHIMOKI
130
simplifying beauty tolerance and realism

• Age proclaimed, and the expressiveness of
  laughter, marking a break with advertising
  stereotypes expressiveness of laughter with
  Natura Chronos

BRAZIL NATURA
131
coping with her diversity
Theme of multiple female roles
USA - SECRET
132
simplifying beauty coping with ethnocentric
beauty

• Proliferation of campaigns that make fun of
  Western-style tans in Japan in summer 2005

JAPAN
133
simplifying beauty more realistic routines
JAPAN - MAC
JAPAN ENVIRON
More aggressive and less stereotyped routines
USA - OLAY
134
easy beauty that saves time

• Idea of beauty made easier by the brand

USA AUSSIE
UK CLAIROL
135
complicity
136
complicity with sitcoms and muses from soaps
INTER characters from the series SEX AND THE
CITY
137
accessible beauty closeness to a familiar star

• Development of co-branding and event-driven
  operations which foster closeness or build on a
  new closeness

FRANCE PANTENE with Christina Reali
138
accessible beauty gifts and promotions

• Development of promotional offers especially in
  English-speaking countries

UK HERBAL ESSENCES
UK - BOOTS
UK NIVEA BOOTS
139
accessible beauty generating loyalty with humour
FRANCE - CLARINS
140
accessible beauty education and advice

• Importance of illustrated advertorials that
  explain the product (especially in Germany and
  Japan) - and affirmation of the contract of
  confidence, especially in the USA

GERMANY LOREAL
USA VASELINE
141
complicity and humour
USA SECRET making fun of beauty secrets
142
complicity with product demonstrations

• Renewed performance quality of the product effect

USA SECRET
143
self-mockery

• Absolute need for the product Dove Calming
  Shower in Korea

KOREA DOVE
144
self-mockery

• Absolute need for the product Dove Calming
  Shower in Korea

KOREA DOVE
145
SO
Three major ways of representing beauty in
2004-2005
2005
NATURALISTIC REDEMPTION
SYNTHAESTHETIC DISTRUST
Rediscovered beauty reconnecting with nature
Invented beauty expressive hysteria
2006
CONSUMERIST TRANSPARENCY
Beauty made objectivenew markers
146
SO
Three major types of message dominate this
international reviewfor 2004-2005
DISTRUSTFUL MESSAGE the battle for beauty,
withbrand and consumer togetheragainst the
environment
TRANSPARENT MESSAGE make choice objective,
withtransparency and fair prices
REDEMPTIVE MESSAGE reinventing a
harmoniousbrand/consumer/environment
relationship
and are combined in product strategiesand brand
strategies
147
to be continued

• KEY TREND IN BEAUTY
• exploration of trends in communication
• ANALYSIS OF REALMS OF BEAUTY semiotic analysis
  of representations of faces, bodies and hair
• COUNTRIES AND KEY BRANDSexploration of countries
  and key brands