TROOP 4/CREW 4

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TROOP 4/CREW 4 ROPE/BASIC KNOTS/BASIC LASHING
PRESENTATION - By Matt Hannam
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Cleaning and Care of Rope
Safety The life of a climbing rope depends greatly on use and damage and, to a lesser extent, on care, cleaning, and storage. Cleaning Climbing ropes should be washed occasionally by hand in cold water with a mild soap, rinsed free of the soap, and then spread out or hung up to dry in the air. Avoid direct sunlight, do not use a dryer, and do not place the rope above a heat source. Care Keep your rope off the ground to protect it from dirt which contains sharp small chips and crystals. Avoid contact with chemicals, acids, alkalis, bleach, oxidizing agents (present in concrete), and embers, sparks or other sources of ignition, e.g., smokers. Avoid treading on your rope as this may work sharp particles into the core. Use climbing rope only for climbing - not for towing a vehicle. Storage Climbing rope should be stored, preferably after drying, at room temperature, ideally in a storage bag. Life Expectancy Manufacturers recommend a retirement schedules which errs on the side of caution and also, presumably, on the side of profit!  How long you decide to use the rope depends on your own inspection, knowledge of the rope's history, and assessment. If a rope has not suffered a major fall, i.e., approaching factor 2 (a fall double the rope distance from the belay) if the sheath shows no significant wear or damage and if the rope has not been exposed to damage from chemicals it is almost certainly safe to use it within the schedule shown below. However, repeated minor falls, heat from rapid rappelling, and rappelling using small diameter carabineers all tend to weaken rope. Replacement Occasional use, e.g., alternate weekends every 4 years Every Weekend every 2 years Sport climbing involving frequent short falls every 3 - 6 months Major fall (approaching factor 2) immediately Flat spots, soft spots, becoming stiff, sheath damage immediately Unsure of condition or history immediately
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Definitions A knot is a rope intertwined
within itself, or with another length of rope.
Stopper knots are used to stop the end of a rope
fraying, or to stop a rope from running through a
small hole, appliance or constriction. A bend
is a knot that joins two ropes together. Bight
- a double section of rope usually taken from the
center of the rope, that does not cross over
itself. Loop - a turn of the rope that crosses
itself.
Free End - the end that is not rigged, the end
one can work with. Standing End - the end that
one cannot work with, it is usually fixed to
something or too long to work with. Jam - when
the knot tightens under tension and you cannot
get it undone, knots that jam (i.e. overhand
knots) should be avoided. Finishing the knot
involves "dressing" it and then "setting" it.
Dressing is the orientation of all  knot parts so
that they are properly aligned. Failure to do
this can result in a great reduction in knot
strength or failure of the knot. Setting a knot
involves tightening all parts of the knot so that
all the parts are touching and causing friction
upon other parts of the knot thus rendering it
operational. Slippery - tying a knot with the
free end passed back through the knot so that
when pulled the knot comes undone.
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Rope Construction Most rope and cords generally
available are either made of nylon,
polypropylene, sisal or cotton.  Sisal and cotton
are generally used for smaller lines or cords
that have commercial or domestic uses (Butcher's
Cord or Bailer Twine).  Polypropylene is a very
popular rope material as it is inexpensive and it
floats a most useful characteristic for any
rope that is to be used around water.  Nylon rope
of similar diameter is stronger, but usually more
expensive and nylon does not float.  Ropes are
usually either of a three strand twisted
construction, a multi-strand braided, or
kermantle construction.  Kermantle construction
involves a sheath and an inner core.  Kermantle
rope of a similar diameter to a twisted rope is
usually stronger, stretches more, is more
flexible and easier to work with.
                                                  
                                                  
                    
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Rope Size  Sisal Cord / Cotton Butchers Cord /
Binder Twine - these light anD inexpensive cords
are most useful for lashings where many wraps of
the cord will carry the load.  1/8" or 3 mm cord
/ Sash Cord - useful for very light loads, heavy
duty lashings, clothesline, or guy lines on small
tents and tarps.  3/16" or 5 mm cord - useful
for tying on light loads to vehicles, guy lines
on heavier tents or large cook area tarps.  1/4"
or 7 mm rope - preferred size for tying canoes
onto trailers and vehicles, strong enough, but it
still allows some stretch to maintain a pressure
over a period of time. 3/8" or 9 mm rope -
preferred size for throw bags and painters, or
anytime one has to occasionally haul on the rope
with bare hands, but storage is also a
consideration.  ½" or 11 mm rope -  the standard
size for "single line" climbing ropes.
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Knots Weaken Rope They do!  A great deal is
written about which knots weaken a rope most. An
angle, a kink, or a knot, stresses the fibers
unevenly and weakens the rope. If this concerns
you, you are using rope that's too thin!!
Although some knots in some ropes are claimed to
only weaken a rope to about 80 of its rated
strength, other knots weaken a rope to about 50.
It is therefore simpler, and certainly safer, to
assume that even brand new rope will perform at
no more than 50 of its rated breaking strength.
And, if the rope is old, worn, or damaged by
sunlight or chemicals - expect considerably less.
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Whipping Rope
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                        Simple Whipping.  All
ropes should have their ends treated in some way
to stop them from fraying or becoming
un-stranded. A whipping will fail if it is not
tight and tidy.
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Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
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WEST COUNTRY WHIPPING
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Square Knot                                    
                        
  You can loosen the square knot easily by either pushing the ends toward the knot or by "upsetting" the knot by pulling back on one end and pulling the other through the loops.

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Timber Hitch                                   
         
  This is an important hitch, especially for dragging a heavy object like a log. It will hold firmly so long as there is a steady pull slacking and jerking may loosen it. The timber hitch is also useful in pioneering when two timbers are "sprung" together. When it is used for dragging, a simple hitch should be added near the front end of the object to guide it.

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The Timber Hitch (Lumberman's or Countryman's
Knot)
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Half Hitch                                   
  The half hitch is the start of a number of other hitches and is useful all by istelf as a temporary attaching knot.

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Two Half Hitches                               
         
  This is a reliable and useful knot for attaching a rope to a pole or boat mooring. As it's name suggests, it is two half hitches, one after the other. To finish, push them together and snug them by pulling on the standing part.

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Clove Hitch                                    
        
  This is one of the most widely used knots. Because it passes around an object in only one direction, it puts very little strain on the rope fibers. Tying it over an object that is open at one end is done by dropping one overhand loop over the post and drawing them together. The other method of tying it is used most commonly if the object is closed at both ends or is too high to toss loops over. The latter is used in starting and finishing most lashings.

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The Clove Hitch
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Bowline                                         
 
                              
  
  The bowline has been called the king of knots. It will never slip or jam if properly made and, thus, is excellent for tying around a person in a rescue. Begin by formatting an overhand loop in the standing part. Then take the free end up through the eye, around the standing part and back where it came from.


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BOWLINE
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The Bowline
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Sheet Bend                                     
                   
  The sheet bend is the most important knot for joining two rope ends, especially if the ropes are of different sizes. Sailors named it in the days of sailing ships when they would "bend" (tie) the "sheetsquot' (ropes in the rigging of a ship).  Begin with a bight in the larger rope. THen weave the end of the smaller rope p thrgh the eye, around the bight, and back under itself. Snug it carefully before applying any strain to the knot.

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The Sheet Bend
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Sheepshank                                     
                                                  
              
  This knot is used to shorten a rope that is fastened at both ends. Take up the slack, then make an underhand loop and slide it over the blight and pull tight. Do the same to the other end to complete the knot. The sheepshank is only a temporary knot as it stands. But it can be made more permanent by adding a second half hitch to each end.

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The Sheepshank


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The Double Overhand Stopper Knot
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Taut-line Hitch                                
                                  
  Since it will only slide one way, the Taut-line hitch is often used on tent ropes. The taut-line hitch will hold firmly on a smooth pole such as a scout stave. Place rope end around pole, make a turn below it, then bring rope up across the standing part around the pole and tuck through.

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The Rolling Hitch (Taut Line Hitch)
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TRIPOD LASHING
Lay three poles alongside each other with the top
of the center pole pointing the direction
opposite that of the outside poles. Tie a clove
hitch around one outside pole. Loosely wrap the
poles five or six times, laying the turns of the
rope neatly alongside one another. Make two very
loose fraps on either side of the center pole.
End with a clove hitch. Spread the legs of the
tripod into position. If you have made the wraps
or fraps too tight, you may need to start over.
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SHEER LASHING
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ROUND LASHING