??de??e?? ?a? s?

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??de??e?? ?a? s?µß??a
2

• ? ???? ?O? ???????O?.
• ?p?? e?daµe sta p??????µe?a pa?ade??µata
  p?????t??, s?µß???e? ??a? ?a??? s?ed?asµ??
  e?de??e?? st? ?e????? ?t? ep???????e? ?a?
  µetaß?ß??e? st? ???st? t?? eµp?st?s??? st??
  a??e?t???t?ta, t?? asf??e?a ?a? ??es? st? ???s?.
• ?a??????a µe t?? ap?fas? p??e? ?e?t?????e? st??
  ???e pe??pt?s? ?a s?ed?ast??? ?a? p??e? e?de??e??
  ?a t???st???, ? p??a µ?sa ?a ???s?µ?p??????? ??a
  a?t?, de? ???e? ?a pa?aß?????µe, ?t? a???ß?? ??a
  a?t? ?a ep??e?s??? s?ßa?? ?a? ??? t?? ??f?as? t??
  p?????t??.
• ? µeµ???µ??? pa?at???s? t?? s?ed?asµ?? t??
  e?de??e?? ?a ?ta? ?????. ???pe? ?a t? d??µe se
  a????ep?d?as? f??µ?a?s??t???? µ?s?? µe t?
  s?µß????? ???? t?? p?????t??.

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?a??de??µa ????? ?e????. ???ta ap? ??a e??a?
???e ????? ??a µ?????µa µ?t??s?? ??????. ?e t??
a?????? s?ed?asµ? µp????µe ?a e??s??s??µe t?
d??ßasµa t?? ?ept??. ??t? ???eta? µe ??f?a??
??de???, ? µ?s? e?????? de??t?? a?a???????
??de????. ?ept??aµ?µ??? ??aµµ??? s???a, µe
??t??a t???sµ??e? ??e?, ?ept?? de??te? p??
ap????? ap? t? s???a ??p. ?d? a?t? ? ap?fas?
?a?a?t????e? t? s?µß????? t?? ????????? s?ßa??. ?
e????? µ?a? ??f?a??? ? a??????? ??de???? µp??e?
?a e?µ??e?te? a??et? s?µß?????, d??ad?, ?t? ?
a?????? ??de??? de???e? t?? astaµ?t?t? ??? t??
??????, e?? ? ??f?a?? t? ??????? s????e?a se
ap?sp?sµata de?te????pt??.
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• ??t?? a?t?? e?f???eta? ?a? ? p?a?t??? ?e?t?????a,
  d??ad? ? a???ß?? a?t????? pe?? ?????? pa???e?
  s?µas?a st? s?ed?asµ? ???? t?? a?t??e?µ????.
• ??t? t? apa?t??sa? ap? pa??? p????? e?p??s?p??
  t?? µ??t???a? avantgarde, ?p?? ? aµe???????
  a???t??t??a? Louis Sullivan (form follows
  function). St? ?e?µe?? t?? ??a ?? µe???? ?t????
  ??afe??? a???e?e ?t? µ??f?, f??µa ?a? e??te????
  eµf???s? p??pe? ?a p??sa?µ????ta? st??
  ?e?t?????e?. ??. ? e?s?d?? ?a e???e? t? µ?t?
  µa?, t? ?s??e?? ?a? t? p??t? p?t?µa ?a e??a?
  p???s??p????a ?a? a?????a st?? p?a?t???? a????e?.
  ?a ?p????pa pat?µata ?a e??a? ?µ???µ??fa ??afe?a
  ?a? t? te?e?ta?? p?t?µa µe t? s?ep? ?a de???e? t?
  ?a?a?t???st??? t???? t?? ?t?????.
• S?µf??a µe t?? a??? t?? e???????e?a? ?a e??a? ??a
  ta a?t??e?µe?a ?ts? s?ed?asµ??a ?p?? e??a?
  p?a?µat???.
• ???? p???? µp??e? ?a pe? p?? e??a? ta a?t??e?µe?a
  p?a?µat???

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?p?st??f??µe ?a? p??? st? ?????. Se a?t??es? µe
t? ?e?t??????? t?s? a???????s??, p?? s?µa??e? ?t?
??a ????? p??ta ap? ??a p??pe? ?a e??a? ??a
µ?????µa µ?t??s?? ?????? d??ad? ?t? e??a?
e??a?e??, µp??e? ??a ????? µe t? ?d?? d??a??µa
?a e??a? ??a accesoire µ?da?, ??a ??sµ?µa,
s?µß??? ??a ????????? ??s?, p?? de???e? ?a? t??
??a. ?e a?t?? t?? p???p??es? ???eta? ? a??a t??
e?de??t???? ?e?t?????a? s?et???. ?? t???st???
µ?da ?a? ??sµ?t??? st???e?a a??et? µp??e? ?
??de??? ?????? ?a? ?a e?afa??ste? te?e???, ?p??
sta ???????a ????? a???µ??? (t?? ???a?d?? Bruno
Ninaber) ? se p???? µ??t??a t?? Swatch. ??
t??t??? e??a? te?e??? ?????, ?a ß??p??µe t??
e?de???a?? ?a? t?? s?µß????? s?ed?as? sa?
a?t?p?????.
Rado.
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• ?d? ?a? ?????a pa?a????????µe µ?a t?s? st??
  a???te?t????? ?a? st? design ?a pa?at???s??? t??
  ?e?t???????? e?de??e??. ??t? p?? e???? e??a?
  ?t???a ?p?? t? Centre Pompidou ? t? Institute du
  Monde Arab st? ?a??s?, sta ?p??a ta d??f??a
  s?st?µata ef?d?asµ?? e??a? fa?e??, d??ad? a?t?
  ??a ?????? e??a? e?de??e??. ? ???a?? p??stas?a
  e??a? s???????? ?a? d?a??sµ?t??? ??f?as?.

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T?µ??e?te ???? ta a?t??e?µe?a ap? t? p??????µe??
µ???µa t? ?t????p? Harmonica t?? Kurt Thurt,
t? ???t??? ?a????t???? FEC, t? e??te????
f?t?st??? t?? Bega, ? t? µ??? ?e???? t?? Michael
Graves.
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• ????? ?a?a?t???st??? t??? e??a? ?t? p??a ap?
  e?de??e?? ?p?? ????t???t?ta, a???????e?s?µ?,
  sta?e??t?ta ? ?a?? p??s?µ?, p??a ap? t??
  e?de??t??? ?e?t?????a, a?t?? ?? e?de??e?? ?????
  ?a? d?a??sµ?t??? ??f?as?.
• ? e?de??t???? s?ed?asµ?? ???s?µ?-p??????e ??a ?a
  ?????? ta a?t??e?µe?a a?t? p?? s???eta ?a?
  ???te?t???, µ?s? t?? e????s?? t?? f??µ?a?s??t????
  p???p????t?ta?. ?????? ?ta? ? ??f?as? t??
  p?a?t???? ?e?t??????? ??a t??? s?ed?ast?? ??a
  e?p??sde?t? ????t??, ? a??µa ?a? µ?a p??fas? ??a
  ?a ?????? d?a??sµ?t??? s?ed?asµ?. ?pe?d? t?t????
  e?d??? d?a??sµ?s? ??e? ?µes? s??s? µe t??
  p?a?t???? a????e?, ???eta? ap?de?t?, e?? ???e?
  a??a??ete? d?a??sµ?se?? ???.
• ??t?? t?? d?a??sµ?t???? e?de??e?? t??
  ap??a???µe ?a? ?e?t???????? d?a??sµ?se??. ??s?
  t?? p??????a? t??? se e?e??sµata ?e?t??????? se
  d?? ep?peda s?ed?asµ?? t?? pa???s?as? t??
  ?e?t???????? p?a?t???? st?? e??efa???? t?µ?a, ?a?
  µ?s? t?? d?a??sµ?t???? st?? s??a?s??µat??? t?µ?a.

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• ??t??e?µe?a p?? p??a ap? t?? ?e?t???????? ?a?
  ?????? e?de??e?? ????? ?a? d?a??sµ?t??? ep?d?as?
  ????? ?d?a?te?? a??a ?a? ?a µp????saµe ?a
  µ???s??µe ??a e??p?a?µat??? d?a??sµ?s? (d??ad?
  p??? ?a??).
• ?e?e??? a????t??a e??a? ta p???µata ?ta?
  ???s?µ?p????µe e?de??e?? ??a a??pa??te?
  ?e?t?????e?, ?s??, ? p???t?ta ? ??a ?a
  pa???s??s??µe ????? p?? e??a? ?e?t??a, sa?
  a??????. ?p????µe d??ad? s??e?d?t? ? as??e?d?ta
  ?a pa?ap?a??s??µe t?? ???st?. ??a ßaf? ap? ?aµp?
  as?µ? ???µa µ????e? µe a???µ????. ???? µp????
  ??t? ?aµa???a, ??t? p??? ???st? st? a?t?????t?.
  ?pe?d?????µ??a a?es???? ?????? ??a 125???? µe
  Chopper ?a µ????e? µe µ??a?? sa? µe????
  ?pp?d??aµ?.

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?a?ade??µata ?p?? a?t?, ap?de??????? ?t? de?
µp????µe p??ta ?a ????µe eµp?st?s??? st??
e?de??e??. ?e ???a ????a, e?de??e?? de? e??a?
e????t?? ?t? ?? e?dede??µ??e? ?e?t?????e? ?
p???t?te? p?a?µat??? e??a? ?pa??t??.
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???µa p?? d?af??et??? e??a? ta p???µata ?ta?
s??e?d?t? afa????µe t?? e?de??e?? ??a p?a?t?????
?????? Se pa??? ??µ?d??a p??se?a? p??a p???, ?a
µ? fa?e? ?a????? ? pa?aµ???? ??de??? d??ad?
µe?tes?de?, ?e?????a ? ??e?da??t??pa ? µ?a fa?d??
?a?aµ?da, p?? ?a fa?e??se? t?? ??????a. ?a? st?
???? ??a???? Air Titanium Case, se ??a ap??
a?t??e?µe?? ??a p??s?p??? ???s? ? ???st???t?ta,
s?µa??e? ?t? ? afa??es? e?de??e?? (? s??e?d?t?)
de ???t??e ?d?a?te?a.
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??t??eta ?µ??, ?p?? t? s?st?µa d?a??pt?? t?? Odo
Klose p?? ß??s?eta? st?? ?µ?d?µ?s?? ????, t?t??e?
e?de??e?? ?d????? se ?a??asµ??? a?t????? ??a t?
???st?. ???a? ?? ?e??µe?e? ?a??? f??µe? p??
?ata?????? st? f??µa??sµ?. ? t?s? ??a ap???
?e?µet????? f??µe? ?a? ??a µ??f??????? e??t?ta,
e??e t?? p??te?a??t?ta a?t? µ?a? ?a??? a????s??
t?? p?a?t???? ?e?t???????.
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• ???????G??S S?????O?
• ?? ?e?t?????e? t?? s?µß???? µa? pa?ap?µp??? st?
  s?ed?ast??? efa?µ??? ap? p?a?t???? ?a?
  ?e?t???????? ?d??t?te? t?? p?????t??. ? t?µ?a?
  t?? ?e?t??????? t?? e?de??e?? t?? s?µß????
  pa?ap?µpe? st?? p???t?st????, ??????????,
  te??????????, ??????µ???? ?a? ???????????
  s?µas?e? ?a? ?d?e? p?? s??d???ta? µe p?????ta.
• ?e?t?????e? s?µß???? de? e?????? t? p????? ?a?
  t? ???s? t??, a??? pa?ap?µp??? st?? p??????a t??
  s?µf?a??µ???? (context). ??????ta µeµ???µ??a ?
  s?st?µata, ? ??? ? e????a pa???s?as??
  ep??e???se??, ?e?????ta? sa? s?µata ? ???µata ap?
  s?st?µata p?? e?µ??e???ta? ap? t??? pa?at???t?? ?
  t??? ???ste?. ?d? ß??s??µaste µe t? s?µß????? se
  ??a ep?ped? ?a??µe????? a?t?pa???es?? ?a?
  ap?fas??, p?? ?s??e? ??a t?? ?a???a µa?,
  s??e?d?t? ? as??e?d?ta.

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?p?? ap?de??e ? ????????? Ute Rittfeld (1996)
ßas????ta? a????µ?te? ap?f?se?? ???st?? p??ta ap?
??a st? s?µß????? t?? p?????t??, p?? µa? e??????
?µesa s??a?s??µat???. ?p????µe d??ad? ??????a ?a
p??µe a? ??a a?t?????t? ?p?? t? Lupo ? t? Smart ?
t? Z8 µa? a??se?, a? t? ap????pt??µe ? a? µa?
af??e? ad??f?????.
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?e? e??a? t?p?te ???? pa?? ? e?t?µ?s? t??
s?µß?????? t?? p?????t??, ?ta? ?????µe ?a ta
a????s??µe. ?? t? ????? de???e? ft??? ? p???
ep?de??t???! ?? ??a? e??p??sµ?? sp?t??? fa??eta?
µ????ast????, µ??t????? ? avant-garde.
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? a?????, ß??p??ta? ta ?p?p?a e??? ??afe??? p??
e??a? ?d?a?te?a a???ß? ?a? s??t???t???,
s?µpe?a????µe ?t? a?t? e??a? t? ??afe?? t??
d?e????t? ?a? ?t? ? ep??e???s? a?t? d????e?ta?
?e?a?????.
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• ? ???S??S ??? S???????.
• St?? d??f??e? e?d???t?te? p?? as???????a? µe t?
  ??µa t?? s?µß?????? eµfa??st??a? ?a? e?e??????a?
  a??et? a?t??ete? ???µe? ?a? ap??e??.
• Se a?t??es? µe t?? ??? s?µß??? t?? µa??µat????,
  t?? ????????a?, t?? s?µe??t???? ? t?? a?s??t????,
  e??a? ?? f???s?f?? (Ernst Cassier ?a? Susanne
  Lauger) t?? ???µ?? ?t? ? ?????p?? ?a??µe???? ?e?
  se ??a ??sµ? ap? s?µß?????? f??µe? ?a? a??e?.
• ? Lauger ??e? ?t?, ??e? ?? p???t?st???? e?f??se??
  ?p?? ???ssa, te?et??, ???µa, ???s?e?a, ??e??a,
  t???? ? µ??s??? e??a? s?µß?????? d?µ??????e? p??
  e??a? ?ate???µµ??e? µe s?µas?e?.
• ??t?? ? s?µß???sµ?? e??a? t? ??e?d? st? ???? p??
  ß??s?eta? t? ?d?a?te?? a????p??? p?e?µa, d??ad? ?
  s??e?d?s? p??? ap? t?? ap?? ???d? ?at?stas?. ??a
  a?t?d???? se e?de??e??. ? s??µat?sµ?? ?a? ?
  d?µ??????a s?µß???? ?µ?? e??a? ?a?a?? a????p???
  ??a??t?ta.

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Se a?t??es? µe t?? e?de??e?? p?? as??????ta? µe
t?? pa???s?a t?? a?t??e?µ????, ? e??? s?µß??t??
?a? ?at?stas??, ???s?µe???? ta s?µß??a sa?
e?p??s?p?? ap? ?d?e? p?? eµe?? s??d???µe µe ta
a?t??e?µe?a.
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• S?µß??a de? e??a? a?t??atast?te? t?? a?t??e?µ????
  ? ?de?? p?? e?p??s?p???, a??? µ?sa, ß????µata ??a
  t?? ?d?a t?? a?t??e?µ????. ?? ?a fa?tast??µe ??a
  a?t??e?µe?? ? µ?a ?at?stas?, de? e??a? t? ?d?? µe
  t? ?a d??s??µe p?a?µat??? µe a?t? t? a?t??e?µe??
  ? ?a ß?e???µe se µ?a ?at?stas?.
• ?ta? µ???µe ??a t?t??a a?t??e?µe?a, ?at????µe µ?a
  ?d?a ??a a?t?, de? ?at????µe ta ?d?a ta
  a?t??e?µe?a, ?a? a???ß?? a?t?? ?? ?d?e? e??a?,
  ??? ta a?t??e?µe?a ?a? ea?t?? p?? e?????µe µe
  s?µß??a.

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Se a?t? t? s??s? e??a? ? ?????? t?? Fa?a?
???ta??aµ??? ??a s?µß??? ap? pa??? a???pt?a??
p???t?sµ?. ??a s?µß??? ??a t? a??asµ??? ap? t???
?e??? ßas??e??, ??a a???p??pe?a, µe?a?e??, d??aµ?
?a? ?????. ? ?????? µa? d?µ?????e? a?????a µe t??
???se?? µa? ???? ? p??? a???ße?? pa?ast?se?? pe??
t?? a??a??? a???pt???.
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• ?p?? ??e?e ? Susanne Lauger t??? fa?ta??µaste,
  t??? s?eft?µaste, a?afe??µaste se a?t???.
• ??t? ?µ??, (?p?? ?a ?ta? st?? e?de??e??) de ?a
  a?t?d???saµe sa? ?a pe??µ????µe t? Fa?a? ?a µpe?
  st? d?µ?t?? µa?, ?p?? ?a? de ?a t??µ??saµe ?a
  p????µe ??s? st? ????? a? t?? ß??paµe st?
  µ??se??. ?p?? µa? de???e? a?t? t? pa??de??µa
  µp??e? ??a a?t??e?µe?? ? µ?a ?????a ?a e??a? ?a?
  ??de??? ?a? s?µß???. ?ts? ?e?t??????? ?at? ?a???a
  ?a? ta a?t??e?µe?a t?? ?a??µe????? ???s??.
• ?ta? µp??µe st? Lobby e??? µe????? ?e??d??e???
  (a????sa ?p?d????), a?t??aµßa??µaste aµ?s?? ?t?
  ?? p???????e? e??a? ??a ?a ?a??s??µe ap? t? µ?a,
  ?a? ? t?p?? s????t?s?? ?a? a?ta??a??? ap? t??
  ????. S???????? e??a? ?a? t? e?d?? t?? ep?p??s??
  p?? µa? d?µ?????e? µ?a e?t?p?s? ??a t? st?? ?a?
  t? ßa?µ? a??a? t?? ?d??? t?? ?e??d??e???. ?
  reception t?? ?e??d??e??? ???a??a ?a? t??
  Hilton ????? µe???? d?af???. ? t??p?? p?? t??
  e?t?p????µe ?a? e?µ??e???µe e?a?t?ta? ap? ta
  s?µf?a??µe?a, ?a? ap? ta e?d?af????ta t??
  e?µ??e?t?. ?at? t? Lauger ? ßas??? d?af??? µeta??
  t?? e?de??t???? ?a? t?? s?µß?????? ?e?t???????
  e??a?, t? t? ?d?e? ?a? pa?ast?se?? s??d???µe µe
  ta s?µß??a.

27
??de???
?? e?de??e?? ?a? ta a?t??e?µe?a ß??s???ta? se
?µes? s??s? µeta?? t???, t? s?µas?a ? ?????a
(Signification). ?a s?µß??a de? pa?ap?µp??? µ???
se ??a s???e???µ??? a?t??e?µe?? (Denotation
?a?a?t???st???) a??? ?a? st?? pa?ast?se?? ?a?
?d?e? p?? e?????µe µe a?t? (Connotation). ??
?e?t?????e? t?? e?de??e?? pe??????? t??a
st???e?a t? ?p??e?µe?? (Subject) d??ad? t??
pa?at???t?, t?? ??de??? ?a? t? a?t??e?µe??
pa?at???s?? p?? e?de????eta?.
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?a??stas?,?d?a.
?a s?µß??a de? pa?ap?µp??? µ??? se ??a
s???e???µ??? a?t??e?µe?? (Denotation
?a?a?t???st???) a??? ?a? st?? pa?ast?se?? ?a?
?d?e? p?? e?????µe µe a?t? (Connotation). ??
s?µß?????? ?e?t?????e? ?a?a?t??????ta? ap?
t?sse?a st???e?a t? ?p??e?µe?? (Subject), t?
s?µß??? (p? ? ???? ?e??), t? a?t??e?µe?? (d??ad?
t?? p?a?µat??? t?? ??s?a ?d??????2-???????) ?a?
t?? ?d?e? ?a? pa?ast?se?? µa? (???, p?t?µ?,
p??a???, s???efa ?a? ß???? ? ap?? p??? ?a?
?ed????). ?? s?µß??? ?a?a?t????e? t?? p?a?µat???
a??a (denotation) ?a? s???????? p???a?e?
pa?ast?se?? (connotation) ?a? ?d?e?.
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• ? e?d??? p???t?ta t?? s?µß???? ß??s?eta? se
  a?t?? t?? pa?ast?se??. ? p???t?ta t?? ??de????
  e??a? ? p????f???s? t?? ?at?stas?? t??
  a?t??e?µ????. ?p?? ??a t?? te???t?? e?de??e??
  ?ts? ?a? ??a t?? s?µß????? ?s??e? ?t? ta
  pe??e??µe?? t?? µp????? ?a s?ed?ast??? ?a? ?a
  e?f?ast??? µe d??f??a µ?sa. F?s??? e?a?t??ta? ta
  s?ed?ast??? st???e?a ?p?? ???µa, f??µa ? ?????,
  ap? t? a?t??e?µe?? p?? ?a efa?µ?st???. ?? ???????
  t?? ßas?????? e?d?µ?t?? ??e? te?e??? ????
  s?µß????? s?µas?a ap? ?t? t? ??????? t??
  p???sßest??a s?µe?a.
• ?et? ?a?a?t????eta? ? s?µß????? e??? p?????t??
  ap? ta s?µf?a??µe?? t?? (context). O Mickey Mouse
  st? pa?d??? d?µ?t?? µ???e? ???? ???ssa ap? a?t??
  t?? Mickey Mouse st? ??aß?ta t?? µ??at?e?.

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?? s?µß????? pe??e??µe?? t?? f?t?st???? t??
Wagenfeld ap? t? Bauhaus, p?? ?ta? st?? ep??? t??
? ap?? ?a? f???? ??s? f?t?st????, ??e? ???e?
s?µe?a s?µß??? ?????? ?a? ?a??? ??as???? ???st??.
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• ? s??µat?sµ?? s?µß???? e??a? p??ta ap? ??a µ?a
  e??efa???? d??s? t?? a????p?? a??? ?a?a?t????eta?
  ap? ?????? s??µata, p?? e?p??s?p??? a?t??e?µe?a ?
  ?atast?se??, st? p??ts?? a?t?????? ?a? ???s??.
  ??t? ta s??µata d?af???p?????ta? ap? ta ?d?a ta
  a?t??e?µe?a, epe?d? e??a? se ??s? µet? t?
  d?µ??????a t??? ?a d??s??? a?t???µa sa? µ???de?
  s?ept???? p??ts??. ?ta? µ???µe ??a t?t???? e?d???
  e?p??s?p??? t?? a?t??e?µ???? e?????µe s??d?se??
  ?de?? e??? a?t??e?µ???? µe e????e?, s???e??,
  ?d?e? ??p? a?t? d??ad? p?? ?????? ef??t? t??
  s??a?s??µat??? ?at????? t?? a?t??e?µ????. ?e????
  s?µas?a ??e? se a?t? t? s?µe?? ?a? ?
  d?af???p???s? t???? e?????? a)s?µß???, ß)???s? ?
  ste?e?t?p?, ?)s??µa.

32
?e?????f??µe a?a??t??? p?? ????e ?a ?????? ta
Blue Jeans µ?s? ????t???a? t?? ?e??a?a? t?? 60,
s?µß??a µ?a? ??a? t?s?? a???? ?a? t??p?? ????.
??? t? ????????? s????? ?a? ?? ???e?? pe??µe?a? ?
? ??a ?e??? ?a a?a??ße? t?? a??e? t??? d??ad?
t???, ?a?a???t?ta, e??at???t?ta, p??sa?µ??? ??p,
?a? ?a ?t??e? f?s??? eµfa??s?µa, ß?????a?
ap??sd???ta a?t?µ?t?p?? µe t?? ???t??? t?? ????,
p?? ap????pta? a?t?? t?? a??e? ?a? s????????
p??spa???sa? a?t?? t?? a?t?ta?? t??? µ?s?
e??te????? s?µß???? ?a t?? e?f??s???. St? s?st?
?a?a?? ?a? µ??t???? pa?te???? ? st??
e?pa???s?ast? f??sta, a?t?pa???eta? t? ?d?a?te?a
a??e?t??? ?a? µa???ß?? Unisex Jeans. ?s? p??
???s?µ?p???µ??a, ?ep??µ??a ?a? µpa??µ??a ?ta?
t?s? ?a??te?a. ?a Jeans ?e?t??????sa? sa? s?µß??a
ta?t?t?ta?, ?a? p???p??eta? t?? ?d?e? a??e? ?a?
?d?e? ? a????e? ??a ?s??? ta f????sa?.
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• S?µa?t??? e??a? ed? t? ?e????? ?t? ?p???e ?
  s??e?d?s? d?af???p???s?? µeta?? t?? p?????t?? ?a?
  t?? s?µß????. S?µß????? ?a µp????se ?a e??e
  e?f?aste? ?a? µe ???? e?d?? pa?te??????.
• ????te?a a?a?????a? ?? d?µ??????? µ?da? t? jeans,
  ?a? ?a?s????? f?s??? t?? d??f??e? pa?a??a??? st??
  a????, ta ?e??µe?a designer-jeans.
• ?e t??? ?a????????? ??????? ?ata?a??t??
  pa???µase t? pa?te???? se ste?e?t?p?, ????e
  d??ad? ???s?. ?? ????t?? a????? ?pa?e ?a e??a? ?
  ??f?as? t?? a?t??et?? a??a? ?a? t??p?? ????, ?a?
  ?pa???a? ap?? ?? a???ast?? a?t? p?? e??e µe??e?
  ?p????p? ? p???? t??? ?a pa?????? µ???? st?
  µ??t???? ep??a???, ?a? se a?t? p?? p??pa???d??a?
  ta µ?sa µa????? e??µ???s?? sa? st????a??sµ???
  p??t?p?, ??a ?e?t?ta ?a? e?e??e??a.

34

• ? s??s? ???s? de? p?????eta? f?s??? ap? t??
  ?a??????? s?ed?asµ? t?? p?????t??, µ?s? ?????
  ????µat?? ? designer-label, a??? ap? t?? e?t?p?s?
  t?? pa???? ????t??? ?a? ?da?????, ?a? t??
  ?p?st????? µ?s? d?af?µ?s?? ???a??µ????
  s???????, p?? ??e???eta? ?µesa ta ???s? ??a ?a
  ?e?t?????se?. ?? ???s? ??e? st?? ?a??µe???? µa?
  ???ssa p??ta t? a???t??? st???e?? sa? ?a??
  ap?µ?µ?s? ?a? ?a???t?p?.
• ?? s?µpe??f??? p?? p?????eta? ap? s?µß??a
  µp????µe ?a t?? ?atat????µe sa? e?e??? d??s?. ??
  s?µpe??f??? p?? p?????eta? ap? ???s? µ??? sa?
  a?t?d?as?. ????ß?? sta ste?e?t?pa p??pe? ?a
  ?p???ast??µe ?t? t?t??a p?????ta ????? s?ed?aste?
  ? t??????st?? µp????µe ?a t? ?p???s??µe, ??a ta
  s?µf????ta t?? ?atas?e?ast? p??ta ap? ??a.
  ??e????ta? ta s??d?a t?? µ???et???? ?a? t??
  design, µp????µe ?a d?a??????µe t? d?ast??ß??s?
  p?? ßas??eta? ap???e?st??? ?a? µ??? sta ???s?

35
?? ??e??? se st?? Easy-Rider se s??s? µe t??
Harley-Davidson.
36
? p???? ??a t? ???s?? t? a??e?t??? ?a? t?? ??eµ?a
?p?? t?? pa??? ?a?? ?a???, se s??s? µe t? Whisky
Jack Daniels.
37

• ?p?? ?a ??µ?ste µ???saµe st?? a??? ??a µ?a
  ??aµµ? s?µß??? ???s? - s??µa ?a? p?a?µat???
  µp????? ta s?µß??a ?a µetat?ap??? se s??µata.
• St? p??asµa ap? s?µß??? se ???s? pa?aµ??e? ?
  s??a?s??µat??? ?at????? ?pa??t?, a?t? p?? ???eta?
  e??a? ? a????as? (Reflection) ?a? t? s??e?d?t?
  s?ept???.

38

• ??t?st??fa sta s??µata. ??µ?????e?ta? e?????s?
  t?? a????. S???????? µe???eta? ? t?p?? t?? ?de??
  ?a? pa?ast?se?? se a?t??e?µe?? ?a? µ???.
  ?a??de??µa ? pa?a?µ? d?a??sµ?t???? st???e??? se
  ap?? decor. ??a??sµ?t??? st???e?a se sp?t?a ?
  ?a??? e??a? pa??? µ?a s???e???µ??? s??a?s??µat???
  ?a? s?µß????? s?µas?a. ?e t?? ?a??? µetat??p??a?
  se s??µata.
• S??µata e??a? ? ?a???te????? pa?a????, se ep?ped?
  pa?astat???? s?µß?????? µe?, a??? ?a???p?µ??a,
  f??a??sµ??a, ap?????µ??a s?µ?d?a p?? ????? ??se?
  t?? a??a t???. S??µata e??a? p???? s?µß??a p??
  µetat??p??a? se et??µ?pa??d?te? ??se??.
• ?a? a?t? a?????? ?st? ?a? sa? pa?a?µ? a?ap?fe??ta
  st?? p???t?st??? e??????, p?? µp????µe ?a
  ap?f????µe e? µ??e? µ?s? e??µ???s?? ?a? a??p?as??
  t?? s?µß?????? ??f?as??.

39

• S????????S ???????G??S ??S G?OSS?S ?O? ???????O?.
• ?f?? pe?????f??? ta s?µß??a ta s?µf?a??µe?a t??
  p?????t??, t?te µpa??e? t? e??t?µa ??a t? s?µas?a
  ?a? t? ßa??t?t? t???. ??s? s?µas?a d????µe st?
  s?µß????? e?p??s?p?s? sa? ?t?µa, sa? ???????a
  ???? ap?? fa??eta? st? ?t?s?µ?. ?t?s?µ? e??a?
  p??ta ap? ??a s?µß????? ??f?as?.
• ???? µa? ????????µe t? s?µas?a t?? ?t?s?µat??
  ?ta? p???e?ta? ?a pa???s?ast??µe ??a µ?a
  ?a??????a d???e?? st? s????te???, ? se µ?a
  ????????? e?d???s? ? ??a t? disco. ??t? ?s??e?
  s?ed?? p??ta ?ta? eµfa????µaste ?a?
  t?p??et??µaste (eµe?? sa? ?t?µa) st?? ?????????
  ????, t?te a?a?aµß????? ta s?µß??a µe?a??te??
  s?µas?a ap? ?t? ?? e?de??e?? ?p??asd?p?te
  te??????.
• ??????ta µe ?a??asµ??? s?µß????? µp????? ?a
  pa?aµe????? t?s? ap????ta, ?s? ?a? a?t? p??
  p?a?t??? de ?e?t???????.
• Design p?? pa???e? µe?a??te?? s?µa?t???
  ap????s? ap? ??a ???? ??????????, p?e?µat???? ?
  p???t?st???? a?????, e??a? t? ?d?? out, sa? ?a
  e??a? te????? ????st?. ?? ?ef??e? ap? a?t?? t?
  d??d??µ? ?a ap?t??e?.

40

• ??? ????e ?µ?? ?a? ß??paµe µet? t? 50 ta
  p???µata µ??? µ?sa ap? t? p??s??µa t?? t??a
  ?a??? f??µa? ?? s???ß? ??a t?s? p??? ?a??? ?a?
  ep???at??se ? pa???a t?? ???? e??a?
  pe??ss?te??, ?a? ??at? ap?s??p????e ? µe????
  p??????a t?? at?µ???? ?a? p???t?st???? p????se??.
• ?d? ????µe p??ta t?? e?a??ass?µe?? ?e?a???a t??
  a?a???? µa?. ?et? t? ?ep??asµa t?? a????t?ta? t??
  a????p?? st?? a??? t?? ß??µ??a??p???s??, ????µe
  s?µe?a ?a ?????µe ??? ?a? pe??ss?te?? µe
  p?????ta p?? ft????? sta ???a t?? te?????? a????
  ?a? t?? ???st???t?t?? t???. S???????? ?e?d?????
  ta a?t??e?µe?a p?? de? ta ??e?a??µaste ??a
  ep?ß??s?, ??? ?a? pe??ss?te?? ?p??e?µe????
  s?µas?a.

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• O Bertold Brecht ?a ??e?e ?f?? ???t?saµe, ?a?
  e??p??st??aµe µe pe??p?? 10.000 ?a?? ?e?t???????
  p?????ta, ???eta? t??a ?a? ? s?µß?????. ?????µe
  d??ad? pe??ss?te?? s?µas?a st?? a?s??t??? t??
  s?µf?a??µ????.
• St? ep?ped? te?????? µp????µe ?a p??µe ?t? de?
  e??a? t?s? d?s???? ?a s?ed??s??µe ??a p????? p??
  ?e?t????e? s?st? ?a? ?a e?de????e? ?a?? t? ???s?
  t??.
• ???? p?? d?s???? e??a? ?a e?t?p?s??µe t??
  ?ata???? t?? ?a? p?? p??t?? t? ape?????µe?? ?????
  ?a? t?? ??sµ? p?? t? pe??ß??e? ?a? ?a s?ed??s??µe
  a?????a.

42

• St? fa??s???a??st??? f?s? pa?aµe????ta? ??
  s?µß?????? ?e?t?????e? ?µ?? ??a ??a ???? ????.
  ?s? ?s??e? ? ?a?? f??µa ap???e?eta? ?t?d?p?te
  ????, ?p???sd?p?te t??p?? ??f?as??. ?p???ate?
  ??t? sa? d??tat???a t?? µ??ad???? ??aµµ??, p??
  ??e? sa? ap?t??esµa ta ???a p?????ta ?a µ??
  a???????ta? ?a? se d?a????sµ??? ?a µ?
  ß?aße???ta?. St?? s???e???µ??? f?s? ?a???a?
  s?ed?ast?? de ??e???eta? ?a ???e? s???e?? pe??
  s?µß??????. ???? ap???t?? µe??s?? t?? f??µa? ?t?
  s?µß????e? e?t?p??eta?. ? µ??t???a avant-garde
  st?? t???e? ?f?se ta s?µ?d?a t?? (p??? t?? ?
  pa???sµ?? p??eµ?) µe t??e?a ap?d?a??sµ?s?. ?? 60
  ??te ?a? a?af????ta? t?t???? e?d???
  ?a?a?t???st???.

43

• ??t? ???? e?t?? ap?d?a??sµ?s?? de µp????se ?a
  fa?taste? ?a?e??. ?ta? ?µ?? ? ?µ?f???a ?a?????e?
  t?? ap?stas? ap? t? s?µß?????, s?µßa??e? ?a? ??t?
  ???? ?? designers ap?s????? ta s?µß??a ap? ta
  ???a t??? epe?d? ??asa? t? e?d?af???? t??? ??a
  a?t?, ?a? µa?? t??? ???eta? ?a? ? s?ed?ast???
  e?e??e??a. ???a? ??µa ?????? µ???? ?a ?ata??ße? ?
  µ??a ?t? ? epa?????? t?? ?d?a? f??µa?, d??ad? t??
  st??, de? e??a? se ??s? ?a ??a??p???se? t??
  ??????? ? p???t?st???? t?? a????e?.
• ? ?µ?f???a ?a???e? ?a? te???? ?ata???e?.

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• S???????? ?a?aeµfa???eta? ? s?µß????? ?a? µ???sta
  µe a??et? ßa??t?ta. ?t?µ???sµ??, ?p?p???t?st????
  d?asp?se?? ?a? st? t???? a??a?? t?? st?? ?a? ????
  t?? e?f??se?? e??a? t? ap?t??esµa. ? s?µß??????
  s?ed?asµ?? ep?st??fe? st? ?e???t??? ?a? p?a?t???
  ep?ped? ?a? e?d?af????. ?a?a???ta?e?e?.
• ?? fa???µe?? a?t? pa?at??e?ta? a???ß?? ?a?
  s?µe?a. ?? ?a?? design de? e??a? ap?? ?e?t???????
  ?a? e??efa????, ?pe?at?µ???st???, ????????? ?????
  d?a???se?? ?a? ????? ?st???a. ??t??eta e??a?
  (t??????st?? e? µ??e?) p?????t??? ?a? f??t?sµ???
  µe s??a?s??µa, d??ad? µe s?µß??a. ?ta? ?p?? ??e?
  ???? ? ??sµ?? ? a??a ?a? ? s?µas?a st? design
  a?eßa??e?, t?te a?t? ?s??e? p??ta ap? ??a ??a t?
  s?µß?????.

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?a?ade??µata
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