This is the 8

1

• This is the 8 metal bending brake we used.
  Since I forgot to take pictures, the pictures I
  use in this presentation to describe what Im
  doing are from an 18 brake. Just pretend its
  much bigger! ?

2
Bending Arm
Clamping Arm

• These are the two levers youll use. You really
  need one person on each side. There is an
  adjustment on each side to account for material
  thickness.

3

• A closer look. I put this picture in because it
  is the only other one I took. You can see the
  edge of the foot.

4
Bending Edge
Aluminum Piece
Foot Edge
Foot Cover

• If you look close you can see a piece of aluminum
  in there now. You can also see the foot cover we
  added. I always pictured the big flat side of
  the bending table as the part that sat flat
  against the piece being bent thats not it at
  all its the edge that makes the bend. I guess
  thats why Ive always had a hard time
  visualizing how that worked.

5

• For my next spars Im going to do it a little
  differently. This is what Id recommend
• Make a template out of 3/4 plywood and MDF.
  Use your rib and trace the pattern onto the
  template.

6

• Mark the flange on the top of your spar web
  (Note this piece is 7-1/2 x 3 to use as a test
  piece for the false spar behind the fuel tank.
  The top of the spar web is on the left in this
  photo.)

7

• Slide you spar web into the brake leaving on the
  top flange side out for the first bend.

8

• Position your spar web so that you flange line is
  just showing under the brake foot.

9

• Rock the bending arm up and down as your work
  your bend in. (Note when using an 8 brake it
  will take about 10 times of the rocking action to
  get a full 90 degree bend in.)

10

• Check your angle using your template (note you
  can also make a small angle template out of scrap
  metal if you dont make a rib template)

11

• Remove your spar web from the brake and place it
  flat. Position your template (or rib) so the top
  is tight to the top flange. Mark the bottom of
  your template (or rib) at each end of the spar.

12

• Position the spar web so only the bottom flange
  is under the brake foot for the second bend.
  (Note for the 8 brake that I used we found that
  the line needed to be just hidden, sliver
  showing, to properly locate the bend.)

13

• Check your angle using your template. (Note We
  were able to just eyeball this bend since its
  close to a 90 degree bend)

14

• Check your spar for a tight fit using your
  template or actual rib.

15

• Checking the fit in the test piece with a 12
  center rib.

16

• Checking a 6 center rib with a simulated spar
  capstrip.

17

• Checking template for correct size to nose rib.

18

• Checking nose rib fit to main spar test piece
  with simulated top skin.

19

• Checking nose rib fit to main spar test piece
  with simulated bottom skin.

20

• Just for kicks heres how far my first main spar
  webs were off. Make sure you use a full sized
  rib to make your template or mark your spar bends!

21

• You can see what a bump it would leave if your
  spar is too big.