Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution

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Neo-classicism toIndustrial Revolution

• 1793 Terror
• Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette
• Executed, Directoire established

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1790-1820 NeoClassicism/Directoire

• Departures from typical fashion evolution
• Women-waistlines rise, slender silhouette
• Men-waistline rises, wide lapels (Incroyable,
  frock)
• Changing male ideals-plain, dark, unadorned,
  suits
• Tailoring important
• 1818, tape measure/Brooks Bros.
• Beau Brummel, male fashion icon, minimalist style
  
• sideburns-first fashionable facial hair in over
  century

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1840-1860 Industrial Revolution

• Men
• Cutaway becomes tailcoat, only evening
• Sack coat (closest to modern)
• Decorative waistcoat disappearing
• Stripes, checks, patterns some dandies
  accessorize
• Power weaving, cylinder printing-cheaper fabrics
• By 1860, fashion journalism global

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1815-1848 Romantic (1790-1840 women)

• Neoclassical-beginning of consistent historic
  revival (Pompeii, classical Greek)
• Stays reduced temporarily, patterned cottons
  day, dark/heavy evening
• 1820s, back to natural waist, volume increases, X
  silhouette, horizontal emphasis
• Corsets, cutting, shaping, applied decoration
• 1830s wide off-shoulder, printed fabrics, bum
  rolls, petticoats

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1840-1860 Industrial Revol women

• Sleeve volume reduced, Vertical emphasis-V waist,
  bell/pagoda sleeve
• More exotics imitated, Kashmir shawls
• Voluminous skirt crinoline, horsehair
• Technology-cage crinoline, fabric over steel
• REFORM dress health, rights (Bloomer)

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Ready-Made Clothing (still 1840-1860)

• Slops/soldiers (since 1660s)-1st RTW
• Industrialization/banking
• office clerks, not bespoke, consistent business
  dress (telegraph, typewriter)
• 1839 Daguerre, photography, truthful visual
• 1840s London-Savile Row tailoring (Poole,
  military tailor)
• 1846 Howe, sewing machine (5yrs Singer)
• 1850s, wood pulp paper, printing
• 1856, first synthetic dye (1860s common)
• 1857 Charles Frederick WORTH, Empress Eugenie,
  birth of haute couture

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Victorian/Edwardian 1860-1910

• 1837-1901 Queen Victoria/1901-1911 Edward
• Visual info, mass production, dept stores, mail
  order
• MEN, standard sizing (Civil War data), menswear
  suited to mass production
• Detachable collar/cuffs, necktie, straight
  silhouette
• 3 pc. sack suit, tuxedo park tuxedo/evening
• Hats-bowler/derby, fedora, boater fewer beards
• Sports important-Norfolk jacket bathing costume

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Late Victorian 1860-1900

• Women-rapid change, difficult to mass produce
• Sewing girls
• Home sewing machine-masses of décor
• Imports-plaids/tartans, paisley, Zouave jkts
• Corset-hourglass drawers to ankles/chemise
• Day-modest, evening-low neck/short slv,
  extended/wide shoulder-line, wide elliptical
  hoops/cages
• Fair complexion-parasols, gloves, fans

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contd.

• Worth-merchandising/showroom/dictated
• 1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture
  Parisienne-regulated/business
• 1870 BUSTLE, longer corset/bodice (not round
  hoop, back emphasis)
• Princess line (Princess Metternich, Worth
  client)-vert seams, no waistline

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1880s-developments

• Emmigration-garment manufacturing
• Sweating-long hrs, poor conditions
• 1900 ILGWU (triangle shirtwaist factory-labor
  laws/unions)
• Dept. stores (Bon marche)-leisure activity
• Patterns printed in Harpers

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Movements

• Aesthetic dress
• vege dyes, Oscar Wilde, Liberty London
• Rational dress, health movement (loose)
• Gay Nineties-la Belle Epoque
• Lessening morality from Victorian
• 1899 Veblen Theory of Leisure Class
• Women in wkforce
• Telephone, typewriter, nursing
• 2pc. Suit, shirtwaist blouse

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1880s-1890s womens fashion

• 1885 shelf-like projection of skirts
• Dolman cape, Ulster coat (half-belt)
• BLACK hide dirt, adapt for mourning
• Victoria 1861-1901
• Actresses-fashion leaders (photography)
• 1895 leg-o-mutton sleeve, trumpet skirt

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Art Nouveau/Edwardian 1900-1910

• Cycling-trousers for women
• Art Nouveau-curvilinear
• S-curve silhouette 1900-1908
• Paris exhibition (couturiers)
• Monobosom, hip thrust, bishop/leg-o-mutton,
  softer/light
• Gibson Girl
• Pompadours, wide hats, plumage (Audubon society)
• Paul Poiret-freed women
• 1st modern couturier, 1909 empire waist
• Automobiles-duster/motorcoat (and shorter styles)

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1910 Corsets

• http//laracorsets.com/History_of_the_corset_11_19
  10-1920.htm