05 Propagation

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05 Propagation

• PFHS Horticulture

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Propagation

• Plants have the ability to regenerate a new root
  system or shoot system or both
• or to unite to another plant by grafting
• It is possible to produce an entire population of
  plants from a single individual
• All the plants produced will have the same
  characteristics as the parent.

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Propagation

• The genetic background of plants propagated from
  cuttings is so diverse that plants propagated
  from seeds taken from these plants tend to be
  highly variable.

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Propagation

• Ex. If you plant the seeds from the red delicious
  apple, the chances are very remote that any of
  the new plants will produce apples even remotely
  resembling the original.

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Propagation

• However, by grafting buds or twigs from the same
  tree onto seedlings, an entire orchard of red
  delicious apple trees just like the one you
  planted can be established.

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Propagation

• Plants may be propagated vegetatively by
• cuttings
• division (also called separation)
• layering
• grafting
• budding
• We will describe each of these techniques but
  will place special emphasis on propagation by
  cuttings.

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Propagation

• Cuttings may be made from a variety of plant
  parts.
• cuttings made from stems have to generate new
  roots
• cuttings made from roots have to develop new
  shoots
• cuttings from leaves have to form both shoots and
  roots
• Roots generate more readily than do shoots and
  therefore the range of plants propagated by stem
  cuttings is much greater than that propagated by
  root cuttings.
• Only a few plants, such as the African-violet,
  can be propagated by leaf cuttings.

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Propagation

• Stem cuttings vary by the conditions of the
  tissue used.
• Herbaceous cuttings are made from stems of
  annuals or herbaceous perennials
• Ex. Chrysanthemums
• The tissue is very soft and succulent.

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Propagation

• Softwood cuttings are made from woody plants and
  the tissue is also relatively soft and succulent,
  but slightly more woody then from herbaceous
  cuttings.
• Softwood cuttings are usually made during the
  first 6 weeks of the growing season.

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Propagation

• Semi-ripe cuttings are made from tissue which is
  harder and less succulent.
• The stem may still be growing in length.
• Semi-ripe cuttings are usually made during mid to
  late summer.

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Propagation

• Hardwood cuttings, also called mature or dormant
  cuttings, are made from stems taken after growth
  has stopped in the fall.
• Hardwood cuttings of narrow and broad-leaved
  evergreens have leaves, but no leaves are present
  on deciduous hardwood cuttings.

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Propagation

• There is no best medium to use from rooting
  cuttings.
• A good medium must hold the cutting in place,
  supply adequate water and oxygen, and be free
  from disease and insects.
• A wide variety of materials can be used for
  rooting.
• coarse sand
• perlite
• vermiculite
• cinders
• soil
• Peat moss is frequently added to sand or perlite
  and should be used with acid-requiring plants,
  such as rhododendrons, azaleas, blueberries, and
  Japanese Andromeda.

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Propagation

• Plants can even be rooted in water.
• However, a deficiency of oxygen in the water will
  cause rotting instead of rooting for many plants.
  
• The roots formed in water are frequently brittle
  and make transplanting and establishment in a
  growing medium a problem.

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Propagation

• Here is a good general-purpose medium
• Use 2 parts perlite and 1 part peat moss by
  volume.
• The medium should be 4 to 6 inches deep and the
  base of the cutting should be inserted to a depth
  of 1 to 2 inches.

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Propagation

• Careful selection of the plant from which the
  cuttings are to be made is a must.
• The stock plants should be healthy and vigorous,
  and show no evidence of water deficiency
  (wilting) or disease.
• Plants which have been recently fertilized,
  especially with a high nitrogen fertilizer,
  should not be used as the source of cuttings.

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Propagation

• If the soil is dry, a thorough watering a day or
  so before you take you cutting can be beneficial.
  

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• Leafy stem cuttings are cuttings with leaves or
  needles and should be made early in the day when
  the tissue is crisp.
• Use a sharp knife or pruning shears and cut the
  stem pieces several inches longer than the final
  length of the cutting.
• Herbaceous cuttings should be about 3 or 4 inches
  long.
• Other kinds of leafy stem cuttings are usually
  cut 6 to 8 inches long.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• To keep the cuttings from drying out, place them
  in polyethylene bags or put the bases of the
  stems in water and keep them in the shade.
• Take only as many cuttings as can be processed in
  a short time.
• If a delay of several hours is necessary, the
  stems can be stored in a refrigerator in the
  polyethylene bags.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• In making the cutting, trim off the lower third
  of the leaves and make a smooth, diagonal cut at
  about a 45 degree angle.
• If the plant has hollow stems, the basal cut
  should be made just below a node (the point at
  which a leaf arises).

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• During the late 1930s the use of chemicals to
  aid in the formation of roots became a standard
  practice.
• One of the growth-regulating chemicals produced
  by plants indole acetic acid (IAA).
• This substance works in conjunction with other
  chemicals produced by the plant itself to
  initiate the growth of roots.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

1. The leaf blade, as usual, produces IAA (auxin).
   This auxin is transported basipetally (down the
   petiole) as usual.
2. The IAA accumulates in the base of the petiole to
   the point that a callus tissue (tumor) forms. A
   callus is a mixture of meristematic cells and
   parenchyma cells. Since these cells do not have a
   determined fate, it is possible to influence
   these cells to differentiate in just about any
   direction.
3. The IAA continues to accumulate in the callus.
   The concentration rises to the point that roots
   are initiated on the callus.
4. The roots produce cytokinins (CK). This hormone
   is transported acropetally (away from the root
   tip, toward the callus). The cytokinin
   accumulates in the callus.
5. As the concentration of cytokinin accumulates in
   the callus, it stimulates shoot formation. The
   shoots then can grow up. In the end you have a
   shoot with roots...a whole plant!

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• A number of synthetic chemical, related to IAA,
  will also stimulate rooting.
• One of the easiest ways to treat cuttings with
  root-inducing chemicals is the method known as
  the power dip".
• The chemical is dispersed in talc powder.
• It is available in several different strengths at
  your nursery or hardware store.
• The lower inch of the stem should be dusted
  lightly with the powder. Detailed instructions
  are included with the materials available on the
  market.
• These root-inducing chemicals should be used only
  on stem cuttings since they inhibit the
  development and the growth of shoots on leaf and
  root cuttings.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• Care of the cuttings while in the rooting medium
  is very important.
• The cuttings need water, a certain temperature
  range, and sunlight.
• A plant takes in water through the roots and
  loses water from the leaves.
• A leafy cutting, thus, has been deprived of its
  main source of water and only a small amount
  enters through the basal cut surface. The leaves
  will continue to lose water.
• If the cuttings are allowed to dry out, rooting
  will assure maximum water uptake by the cutting.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• The major methods we can use to reduce water
  loss
• keep the atmosphere surrounding the cuttings at
  the highest relative humidity possible
• keep the leaf surfaces covered with a thin film
  of water
• Temperatures of the medium and atmosphere should
  be maintained between 65 and 85 degrees F.
• Rooting is inhibited at temperatures above and
  below these levels.
• If possible, the night air temperature should be
  5 to 10 degrees cooler than the day temperature.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• Sunlight is necessary for successful rooting of
  most species of plants.
• the more light, the faster the rooting response
• sunlight supplies heat and heat increases water
  loss
• indirect sunlight is preferable
• At least you should avoid directand strong
  sunlight on the cuttings from mid-morning to
  mid-afternoon and for the first 10 days after
  the cuttings are planted.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• Cuttings of some plants, mostly herbaceous and
  softwood will root in 7 to 21 days.
• Cuttings of semi-ripe wood will take 3 to 6 weeks
  or longer.
• Hardwood cuttings of narrow and broad-leaved
  evergreens will require 2 to 6 months to root.
• Cuttings of some kinds of plants are considered
  impossible to root no matter how long they are
  left in the medium.
• Cuttings should be potted for further growing
  when well rooted.
• It is difficult to establish a definite stage
  when an inducing chemical has been used.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• The ability of stem cuttings to develop roots
  varies with the kind of plant.
• Some are easily rooted, while others are very
  difficult to root.
• Plants which are difficult to root show the
  greatest variability in rooting.
• Closely related plants may show a wide range of
  root-ability.
• Upright growing junipers are difficult to root,
  but the spreading types are relatively easy.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• The time of year to make cuttings is learned
  primarily by experience.
• This time actually refers to the condition of the
  plant rather than to a calendar date.
• With easily rooted cutting, timing is
  relatively unimportant.
• Ex. Chrysanthemum and geranium cuttings can be
  rooted any time of the year there is new growth.
  
• During the winter months a longer period of time
  is usually necessary for rooting.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• Cuttings of some plants root well at certain
  times and poorly at others.
• Ex. French hybrid lilacs, which are generally
  considered to be difficult-to-root plant, will
  give the best results if the cuttings are made
  about the time the plant is in flower.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• Another factor which sometimes can be related to
  rooting ability is the chronological
  (developmental) age of the plant.
• In some plants there are visible differences
  between juvenile and mature forms, but in others
  there are no visible differences.
• The plant propagator has learned that cuttings
  made from juvenile plants are easily rooted but
  that cuttings from mature plants may be difficult
  to root

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• Several special techniques may be helpful for
  difficult-to-root cuttings.
• The deliberate wounding of the base of the
  cutting is one of these techniques.
• A light wound is made by drawing the tip of a
  knife down the base of the cuttings for about 1 ½
  inches.
• The cut should be made through the bark and
  slightly into the wood.
• Several such wounds can be made round the base of
  the stem.
• Care must be taken not to cut entirely through
  the stem.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• A more severe treatment, called heavy wounding,
  can be made by removing a thin slice of the bark
  and wood from one or two sides of the stem.
• Care must be taken to cut only slightly into the
  wood
• Wounds should be made before treatment with a
  root-inducing powder

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• Another technique is to girdle the stem just
  below the point where rooting is desired.
• The stem may be girdled by wrapping a piece of
  wire or string tightly around the stem or by
  removing a thin circle of bark.
• The girdle should be made a month or more before
  the cuttings are to be made.
• The girdling interrupts the downward movement of
  carbohydrates, growth-regulating chemicals, and
  other substances involved in the rooting process.
  
• There is a build-up of these materials above the
  girdle.

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Leafy Stem Cuttings

• A third technique which may be helpful is known
  as etiolating.
• The piece of stem which will be used as the base
  of the cutting is covered with black paper or
  tape so as to exclude all light.
• This should be done several weeks before the
  cuttings are to be made.
• The black paper or tape is removed just prior to
  making the cuttings.

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Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings

• Deciduous hardwood cuttings are made from the
  current seasons growth.
• The cuttings should be gathered soon after the
  dormant season has started or until mid-winter.
• The cuttings can be made with a knife or a
  pruning shears.

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Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings

• An ideal size for these cuttings is equal to a
  new lead pencil in both diameter and length.
• Finished cuttings should be tied together in
  convenient size bundles (25 to 5) and covered
  with a moist medium (peat moss, sawdust,
  shavings, etc.).

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Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings

• The cuttings are first subjected to a temperature
  of 50o to 55o F for 3 to 4 weeks, and then stored
  at a temperature below 40o F but above freezing.
  
• They can be buried outdoors or placed in your
  refrigerator.

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Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings

• In the spring the cuttings should be planted to a
  depth that will expose only the uppermost bud
  above the soil.

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Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings

• Easily rooted species, such as pussy willow and
  forsythia, will root in water.
• However, this method is unsatisfactory for most
  hardwood cuttings.
• Treatment of deciduous hardwood cuttings with a
  root-inducing chemical is of questionable value.

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Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings

• Plants which readily produce suckers can
  frequently by propagated by root cuttings.
• Root cuttings are usually made in fall or winter.
  
• For woody plants, select roots which are about
  the thickness of a lead pencil.
• These should be cut into lengths of 3 to 4
  inches.
• Plant horizontally or with the thicker end of the
  root upward (the end closest to the stem).

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Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings

• Cuttings may be planted in flats for greenhouse
  propagation or in prepared beds of outdoor
  propagation.
• Root pieces should be covered to a depth of 2 to
  3 inches.
• Propagated plants should be transplanted
  following the first growing season.

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Leaf Cuttings

• Leaf cuttings are used to propagate many
  herbaceous tropical plants which have thick
  leaves.
• For the various fibrous-rooted begonias, the main
  veins of the leafs blade are cut in several
  places and the leaf is then anchored firmly
  upon the rooting medium.
• Now plants will develop at these cut places.

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Leaf Cuttings

• Plants developing from leaf cuttings of
  Sansevieria (snake plant) will have entirely
  green leaves regardless of whether the parent
  plant has variegated (part green, part non-green)
  or entirely green leaves.
• A Sansevieria with variegated foliage should be
  propagated by division.

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Leaf Cuttings

• Peperomia, African-violet, and Gloxinia are also
  propagated by leaf cuttings.
• For these plants, the leaf is cut from the stock
  plants so that the leaf-stalk is ½ to 1 inch
  long.
• The leaf-stalk is inserted into the medium deep
  enough so that the leaf blade is just above the
  medium.

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Leaf Cuttings

• Leaf cuttings will develop roots in about 3 weeks
• another 3 to 4 weeks may be required for new
  shoots to grow
• Leaf cuttings of many plants, including the woody
  species, will readily form roots, but new shoots
  may not develop.

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The Propagation Environment

• Successful propagation can occur in
• the field, where there is little control over the
  environment
• in controlled-growth chambers
• where light
• temperature
• humidity
• carbon dioxide
• and other environmental factors can be precisely
  controlled.

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The Propagation Environment

• Seeds and deciduous woody cuttings are examples
  of propagation under field conditions
• Meristem tissue culture (use of just the very tip
  of the stem) of
• orchids
• carnations
• Geraniums
• are examples of propagation in
  controlled-growth chambers.

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The Propagation Environment

• The structures most feasible for use by the
  commercial propagation or by the homeowner lie
  between these two extremes and may be as diverse
  as is human ingenuity.
• Of paramount consideration in selecting a
  propagation structure is how to restrict cutting
  and thus to prevent wilting.

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The Propagation Environment

• The simplest way is to use a wide-mouthed jar,
  invert it over one or two cuttings.
• Many of us will remember our mother or
  grandmother sticking a slip (cutting) of her
  favorite rose in the flower bed and placing a
  fruit jar over the cutting.

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The Propagation Environment

• With the larger jars, a moist-rooted medium can
  be placed inside the jar, the cuttings inserted,
  and the opening covered with a piece of
  polyethylene tightly tied.
• The polyethylene permits exchange of oxygen and
  carbon dioxide but markedly restricts loss of
  water.
• Aquariums and large metal or plastic food trays
  can also be used.
• Care must be taken not to over water because
  there is no place for excess water to drain away.

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The Propagation Environment

• An effective method of rooting a new cutting is
  to put a plastic bag over the container and
  support it with a framework made of two wire coat
  hangers.
• The bag is tied tightly to prevent evaporation
  of water.
• The unit should be placed in a moderately light
  place, but never in direct sunlight.

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The Propagation Environment

• Wooden flats and clay pots make excellent
  propagation structures.
• A plastic bag can be inverted over a pot and
  sheets of polyethylene can be spread over wire
  hoops (clothes hangers are excellent affixed to
  the flats.
• Since the bottom of the flat and pots are not
  enclosed, some water loss may occur and
  occasional watering may be necessary.

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The Propagation Environment

• Cold frames are easy to construct and are an
  effective structure for propagation almost any
  kind of plant during the warmer part of the year.
  
• Sides and ends of cold frames should be tight to
  reduce air movement and water loss.
• Cold frames may be any size however, they
  commonly are 3 to 6 feet so that window sash can
  be used for the cover.
• If the top is a wooden frame covered with
  polyethylene, then the size varies as desired.

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The Propagation Environment

• The back side of the cold frame is 10 inches high
  and the front is 12 inches.
• This height will permit use of long cuttings and
  the slope will help prevent water from dripping
  onto the cuttings.
• There should be good drainage underneath the
  cold frame.

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The Propagation Environment

• A 2 to 3 inch layer of the rooting-medium is
  spread over the soil and the cuttings are
  inserted no deeper than about three-fourths the
  depth of the medium.
• Rooting will occur in the medium and the roots
  will grow into the soil beneath.

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The Propagation Environment

• Shading the cold frame, the plastic covered
  flats, and pots or other structures from direct,
  strong sunlight is essential.
• The shade will prevent a buildup of heat in the
  closed structure and will help to keep the
  cuttings form wilting.
• The shade should be removed on cloudy days and
  gradually as the cuttings become rooted.

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The Propagation Environment

• Needless to say, greenhouse and similar plastic
  structures are good propagating units.
• If heated, they can be used during colder months
  of the year as well as during the summer.
• Greenhouse benches can be covered, as described
  for cold frames, or left uncovered.
• If left uncovered the foliage should be syringed
  (sprayed with water) several times each day to
  keep the cuttings from wilting.

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The Propagation Environment

• Frequent intervals of mist keep the foliage moist
  at all times.
• Even when the cuttings are exposed to full
  sunlight, the film of water lowers the
  temperature of the leaf tissue and thus reduces
  water loss.
• Fertilizers, insecticides, and fungicides can be
  supplied through the mist system.

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Layering

• Layering consists of rooting stem before it is
  detached from the parent plant.
• One of the major advantages of layering is that
  the parent plant continues to supply nutrients
  and water to the shoot while roots are
  developing.
• The four most common methods of layering are
• simple
• tip
• mound
• air

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Simple Layering

• Simple Layering a branch is bent to the ground
  before growth commence in the spring.
• A 5 to 10 inch portion of the center of the stem
  is covered with soil.
• Several inches of the tip are left exposed to
  form new leaves.
• It is advisable to anchor the stem firmly in the
  round and to stake the exposed tip in an upright
  position.

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Simple Layering

• Improve rooting by
• making a notch cut from the lower side of the
  stem
• removal of a ring of bark around the stem
• making a diagonal cut about one-third the way
  through the stem
• lightly dust the stem with a root-inducing powder
• Divide and plant when well rooted.

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Tip Layering

• Tip Layering place the tip of a branch into 1 to
  2 inches of soil.
• The tip should be firmly anchored.
• Black raspberries, blackberries, and type of
  golden bells with drooping stems (Forsythia
  suspensa) are easily propagated by tip layers.
• Divide and plant when will rooted.

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Mound Layering

• Mound Layering (AKA stooling) cover the base of
  stems with moist soil.
• During the dormant season the plant should be cut
  back severely almost to soil level.
• As soon as new shoots start to grow in the
  spring, the bases are covered with soil.
• As growth continues, more soil is mounded over
  the base of the stem until about 6 to 8 inches
  of the stem is covered.
• Never cover the stem tip.

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Mound Layering

• By fall these layered stems will be rooted and
  can be cut off and stored or planted.
• Gooseberry, currant, quince, hydrangea, and
  spirea Anthony Waterer are examples of plants
  which can be mound layered and which will root
  the first year.
• Magnolias and rhododendrons can also be mound
  layered
• two growing seasons will be required for rooting

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Air Layering

• Air Layering (AKA pot or Chinese layering)
• Many of the woody tropical plants (dracaena,
  rubber plant, croton, pandanus) are commonly
  propagated by air layering.

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Air Layering

• Remove the leaves about 2 to 4 inches above and
  below the point where you want the stem to make
  root.
• Make a diagonal, upward cut of about 2 inches.
• The cut should be merely to the center of the
  stem.
• The cut surfaces may be dusted with a root
  inducing powder and should be held apart with a
  small pebble or stick.

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Air Layering

• Place about a handful of moist sphagnum moss
  around and between the cut surfaces and tie
  tightly with string.
• Wrap polyethylene film, such as a freezer bag,
  carefully and tightly about the sphagnum moss.
• The cut edges of the polyethylene should be
  folded several times to afford a watertight seal.
  
• Fasten the upper and lower ends of the
  polyethylene firmly to the stem with a waterproof
  tape.
• When properly made the sphagnum moss will remain
  moist for over a year.

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Air Layering

• The air layer should be shaded to prevent a
  buildup of excessive heat from the sun.
• Cut off and plant the rooted layers.

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Division

• Another method of propagation is by division.
• Division is the simple act of producing two or
  more complete plants by splitting apart the
  parent plant.
• A sharp knife, pruning shears, or spade may be
  used.

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Division

• Early flowering woody plants are usually divided
  in late summer or early fall after the plant has
  become dormant.
• Woody plants which bloom in mid to late summer
  are divided in the early spring before the buds
  begin to swell.
• Easiest to divide are the woody (branches)
  arising below the soil surface or which plants
  which have multiple crowns produce sucker shoots.

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Division

• Herbaceous perennials which form multiple crowns
  should be divided as described on the previous
  slide.
• Plants that are rampant growers should be divided
  every 1 to 2 years.

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Division

• Perennials which require several years after
  planting before starting to flower should be
  divided only occasionally.
• Iris rhizomes should be divided in mid-July and
  about every 3 to 4 years.
• The rhizomes are cut into sections
  andimmediately replanted.
• Each rhizome section should be have a visible
  growing point.

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Division

• Dahlia and peony roots should be divided so that
  each root piece has a bud (eye) on the stem piece
  at the top of the root.
• Peonies should be divided every 6 to 7 years.
• Dahlia, which is not hardy, is dug each fall,
  stored, and may be divided in the early spring
  just prior to planting.

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Division

• Hardy bulbs, such as daffodils, narcissus,
  tulips, and lilies, are divided, but only when
  the planting becomes crowded.
• During the summer, after the tops have died down,
  dig, clean, and allow the bulbs to air-dry.
• Separate the bulbs and replant inthe late summer
  or early fall.

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Division

• Bulbs, corms, and similar plant parts which are
  not hardy and must be dug each fall should be
  handled as described for the dahlia.

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Grafting and Budding

• The most precise forms of plant propagation are
  grafting and budding.
• Considerable skill is required in preparing the
  graft union so the parts fit together properly.
• The closer plants are related to each other, the
  better will be the chances for having a
  successful graft union.

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Grafting and Budding

• Normally grafting is left to the professional
  horticulturalist with the facilities to control
• Temperature
• Humidity
• Light
• There are some techniques which can be handled
  outside with a minimum of equipment.

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Grafting and Budding

• We will discuss
• Bridge grafts
• Used to repair tree trunks which have had
  extensive areas of bark damaged by
• Rodent
• Lawnmowers
• Children
• Cleft grafts
• Used to change or add a new variety to the top of
  a fruit tree
• Budding
• Used to propagate a wide range of ornamentals
  which are very difficult to propagate by
  cuttings.

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Bridge Graft

• Used to provide a span of living tissue over an
  injured area on a tree trunk.
• If over 50 of the bark on a tree trunk is
  damaged it is essential to provide a bridge of
  living tissue to carry food manufactured in the
  leaves to the root system.
• The best time to make a bridge graft is in early
  spring just as the buds are beginning to break.

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Bridge Graft

• If possible, shoots one-fourth to one-half in
  diameter should be taken from the injured tree
  several weeks before grafting.
• You can cut them and put them in a refrigerator
  to keep them dormant.

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Bridge Graft

• Damaged tissue around the wound should be
  removed.
• Cut the shoots (scions) on the diagonal and
  insert them in the live tissue above and below
  the wound.
• The scions may be held in place with small,
  flat-headed wire nails.
• A shoot is inserted every 2 or 3 inches, starting
  on one side of the wound.
• Be sure to insert the shoots right side up.
• If they are placed upside down, the transport of
  nutrients to the upper part of the tree will be
  hindered.
• After inserting the shoots, cover the area with
  grafting wax to prevent drying out and the
  entrance of disease organisms.
• Any buds which grown out of the shoots used to
  make the bridge should be removed.
• The shoots will enlarge and completely cover the
  wounded area of the tree within a few years.

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Bridge Graft

• Two methods of bridge grafting (L-cut on the left
  and inlay on the right) are shown.
• The scion on the left is inserted under the bark
  at each end
• The scion on the right is laid in a groove at
  each end.

89
Cleft Graft

• Used to topwork (grafting individual branches) to
  change or add a variety on an established tree.
• It can also be used to inserta male branch in a
  female holly tree to insure pollination.
• Cleft Grafting
• 1. The operation with the stock out
  horizontally. 2. With a sloping cut.

90
Cleft Graft

• Can be done any time the plants are dormant, but
  it is best to do it just before buds begin to
  swell in the spring.

91
Cleft Graft

• Cut off a branch not over 4 inches in diameter,
  and split the stub vertically for a distance of 2
  to 3 inches.
• You can do this by using a mallet to pound a
  heavy knife or wedge into the stub.
• If a knife is used, a screwdriver or wedge should
  be inserted to hold the split open.

92
Cleft Graft

• Two shoots (scions) 3 to 5 inches long with a
  gently sloping cut on the basal 2 inches of the
  shoot are inserted into opposite sides of the
  split.
• The outer edge of the shoot should match the
  outer edge of the branch stub so that a union
  can be formed.

93
Cleft Graft

• After you have inserted the shoots, remove the
  screwdriver or wedge so the shoots will be firmly
  held in place.
• Cover the top of the stub and the union between
  the stub and shoots with grafting wax.

94
Budding or Bud Grafting

• Consists of inserting a single bud of the desired
  variety into the bark of a seedling or rootstock
  (the plant which is used as the root for a budded
  or grafted plant).
• This technique is used extensively for
  propagating roses and fruit trees.

95
Budding or Bud Grafting

• Budding should be done when the bark is easily
  separated from the wood.
• The bud is inserted between the bark and the
  wood.
• Most budding is done in the fall since there is
  more time for the union to form before new shoot
  growth starts the following spring.

96

• Break

97
Terms to Understand

• Grafting
• Splice
• T-budding

98
Terms to Understand

• Cutting
• Layering stem still attached to parent plant.
• Rooted stem removed and planted to grown on its
  own.
• Grafting inserting a short piece of stem
  bearing one or more growth buds from one plant
  into another plant to form a union that grows.

99
Terms to Understand

• Stock the plant onto which you graft.
• Scion piece of stem containing one or more
  growth buds that you insert into stock.
• For a graft to work, the scion and stock plants
  must be close botanical relations.

100
Terms to Understand

• Cambium soft layer of tissue in stem or root
  that lies between the bark and the wood. When
  you peel bark off tree, you pull it loose at the
  cambium layer. The cambium gives rise to new
  bark tissue on outside and wood on the inside.
• Must align a section of the cambium layer of
  the scion with the cambium layer of stock and
  then bind the stock and scion together so that a
  union takes place.

101
Reviewing

• It's very important to have a sharp tool.
• Cutting scion to cut, hold scion horizontally
  against your chest with the end to be cut in
  right hand (if right handed). Hold knife securely
  in other hand with blade on one side of scion and
  thumb in a parallel position on the other. Pull
  to right to make cuts, moving thumb with the
  knife. Cut cleanly and smoothly.

102
Reviewing

• In all grafting methods, the tight union
  between stock and scion must be sealed off from
  air with some kind of sealing agent usually for
  a novice a manufactured tree sealing compound.
• Graft deciduous trees and shrubs any time during
  the dormant season.
• Usually its most satisfactory if done before
  buds begin to swell in late winter or early
  spring.
• Evergreens can be grafted in early spring, just
  before plants begin to grow actively.

103
Reviewing

• Saw Kerf Graft fit scions into saw kerfs in the
  stock plant.
• Wedge graft used on small stocks and scions
  easy for novice.

104
Reviewing

• Budding summer and early fall.
• Insert growth bud from one plant under the bark
  of a plant of related variety.
• In fall and winter the bud is dormant.
• In spring there is a surge of growth-comes to all
  buds on the plant and the implanted bud also
  starts to grow and you cut back to just above it.

105
Reviewing

• All growth from implanted bud flowers, fruit,
  and leaves will have the characteristics of the
  plant from which you took the bud.
• Budding is a lot easier than grafting.
• It doesnt leave scars and disfigure stems.

106
Reviewing

• Stock plant and section of branch where you
  place the bud.
• Budstick buds come from here
• It is a branch containing several buds.
• Should bear vegetative buds not flowering buds
  and should be fresh.
• To implant a bud into the upper branches of a big
  tree or older shrub, choose a branch of 1 or 2
  year old wood, remove foliage that would
  interfere with the budding operation.

107
Reviewing

• Usually buds on the budstick are at the base of
  leaf stalks.
• Remove the leaf, but dont cut off leaf stalk.
• Use it as a handle and also as an indicator.
• If when it withers a week or two after budding,
  the bud remains plump and green, the operation is
  a success.
• But if the entire bud shield or patch (bark, bud,
  and leaf stalk) withers or turns dark, the
  operation has failed.
• In a few weeks cut off the dying material if it
  appears to be constricting the stock.
• Later the following winter, cut off the old stock
  above the bud and it will grow into a stem.

108
Reviewing

• T-Budding the easiest method to use. Bud
  shield inserted in T-incision.
• T-incision works when bark pulls away easily.
• Budshield

109
Reviewing

• Patch Bud used on thick-barked plants. Need
  double bladed tools blades 1 ¼ inches apart.
• Propagating must be a related species.
• Grafting the operation of inserting a short
  piece of stem bearing one or more growth buds
  from one plant into another plant to form a
  union that grows together.
• Cambium soft layer of tissue in a stem (or
  root) that lies between the bark and the wood.

110
Reviewing

• Division For perennials, bulbs, or plants with
  rhizomes or tubes it is necessary to divide the
  roots up.
• Each root segment or division is capable of
  becoming a new plant.
• Divide in autumn or early spring.
• Deciduous and semi-deciduous perennials may be
  cut back to about 4 inches from the ground when
  you divide and transplant.
• Those bulbs that live over from year to year
  should be left undivided until flower production
  starts to fall off.

111
Reviewing

• Softwood Cuttings take in early spring or
  summer from deciduous or evergreen shrubs or
  trees, or from herbaceous or evergreen
  perennials.
• Softwood cuttings can be taken from tips of side
  shoots of plants.
• Use a good rooting mixture. Ex. A mixture of half
  sand and half peat moss.
• Rooting can be speeded up by treating the base of
  the cutting with a rooting hormone.
• It may take from 2 weeks to several months to
  root.

112
Reviewing

• Root Cuttings Cuttings can be taken from the
  roots of any plant that produces sprouts from the
  roots.
• Plants such as blackberry, raspberry, and
  Oriental poppy are good for growing.

113
Reviewing

• Ground Layering Is a simple method of plant
  propagation in which branches are notched and
  brought into contact with the soil to make them
  take root while still attached to the parent
  plant.
• Select a low-growing branch that can be bent down
  to the ground.
• On underside of branch at a selected point, make
  a slanting cut halfway through the branch wedge
  it open with a pebble or peg.
• Bend the branch into a 4-inch hole in soil into
  which some starting mixture has been added, and
  place the cut at center and well toward bottom.
• Anchor it with a heavy wire or stone.
• Fill hole and place brick or stone directly above
  the cut to anchor the plant.

114
Reviewing

• Air Layering Select a branch from pencil size
  up to an inch in diameter.
• Below a joint either make a slanting cut 1/3
  through the stem, inserting a piece of matchstick
  to keep it spread apart, or remove a ring of bark
  about ¾ inch wide, scraping it down to the
  heartwood (the hard core of wood at the center of
  a stem or branch).
• Dust the cut lightly with rooting hormone powder,
  wrap the area with a generous handful of damp
  sphagnum moss, and enclose it in polyethylene.
• Bind it securely above and below the cut with
  string or wire ties. If it works, you will see
  roots appearing in the sphagnum moss in a month
  or two.
• Then you can separate the youngster from the
  mother plant.
• If it doesnt root, the branch will callus, new
  bark will eventually grow over the cut area, and
  youre no worse off than before.

115
Propagating Herbaceous Plants From cuttings

• Stem use only healthy, vigorous, young tissue.
• Remove from the parent plant a portion of stem 3
  to 5 inches long with leaves attached.
• Make a clean cut or break just below a node of
  the donor plant.

116
Propagating Herbaceous Plants From cuttings

• Leaves and Stipules stipules are modified
  leaves sometimes found at the base of leaf
  petioles as in geraniums.
• Snip part of leaves and stipules from the bottom
  inch and a half of stem. They would be in
  contact with the rooting medium and would rot.
• Rooting hormone may be applied to the base of the
  cutting. Then place the base of the cutting in
  firm contact with a moist, warm rooting medium.
  After the roots form, transplant the cuttings to
  a permanent pot.
• Cuttings of plants that exude a sticky sap as
  geraniums and cacti will do better if the cut
  ends are allowed to dry a few hours before being
  placed in the rooting medium. This allows the
  wounded tissues to dry and helps prevent the
  entrance of disease organisms.

117
Propagating Herbaceous Plants From cuttings

• Some plants can be propagated from a single leaf.
  
• Examples begonia, bryophylum, and jade.
• The leaves are laid flat with their lower surface
  in firm contract with the rooting medium.
• Roots and shoots form from the leaf which
  eventually decays.

118
Factors Affecting Rooting

1. Conditions of the Parent Plant use only
   vigorous, healthy plants as sources of cuttings.

119
Factors Affecting Rooting

1. Rooting Medium can use water or moist sand but
   any medium should provide physical support, an
   adequate supply of oxygen and water to the root
   zone, and proper drainage. The medium should be
   loose enough that the plants can be transplanted
   without injury to the newly formed roots. Sand is
   often mixed with an equal part of peat moss or
   sphagnum moss. Perlite and vermiculite are often
   substituted for sand.

120
Factors Affecting Rooting

1. Water approximately 90 of water a plant
   normally takes up is lost through the leaves. A
   cutting has no root system to replace this water,
   and wilting or death of the cutting can result.
   An amateur mist system can be made by covering
   propagation box with glass or plastic. Do not
   expose cuttings to direct sunlight because the
   temperature inside the enclosure will get too
   high.

121
Factors Affecting Rooting

1. Light Light is necessary for photosynthesis,
   which provides the energy to form the new tissues
   that become shoots and roots. Unless cuttings
   are misted or the surrounding air cooled, keep
   them out of direct sunlight.

122
Factors Affecting Rooting

1. Temperature most plants do best at about 60-65
   degrees F. An additional 5-10 degrees F. at the
   bottom of the tray encourages rooting.

123
Factors Affecting Rooting

1. Hormones Use of plant auxins or growth hormones
   to encourage rooting has received considerable
   publicity. Hormones may also shorten the time
   for rooting and enhance the quality and quantity
   of roots. Hormones are an aid to rooting and
   should not be considered a substitute for good
   technique.

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• The End