Pruning Shade and Fruit Trees

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Pruning Shade and Fruit Trees

• Jay Davison
• University of Nevada Cooperative Extension
• Fallon, Nevada

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Why Prune?

• Physically control (manage enhance) plant
  growth and development
• Change shape of a plant
• Improve plant health
• Remove hazards
• Increase fruit production
• Etc. etc. etc. (Have a reason to prune)

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Four Rules for Successful Pruning Cuts

• Never leave a stub
• When heading back always cut to an outside
  facing bud or branch
• When thinning cut just outside the branch
  collar
• 4) Do not paint or seal pruning cut

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Heading Back Cuts
Stub (too long)
Uncut Limb
No Stub (just right)
Cut bud (too short)
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Thinning cut
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Branch Collar (Edge)
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Cut Line
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Cut line (too short)
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Cut line (too long)
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Stub
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Cut line (About right)
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Large limb removal
bark ripping
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Undercut until branch pinches saw
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Saw completely through branch
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Remove stub outside branch collar
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Branch removal complete
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2nd cut
1st cut
Final Cut
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Pruning Deciduous Shade Trees

• Remove dead or dying branches
• Remove broken or diseased branches
• Remove interior and crossing branches
• Remove water sprouts
• Remove root suckers
• Lightly head back to an outside bud.

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Scaffolding branches every
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Open Center Tree
Leave stub
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2nd Dormant season
Central Leader
At Planting
1st Dormant Season
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Central Leader Tree at 3 years
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Useful Web Sites for Pruning

• http//www.oznet.ksu.edu/library/hort2/c631.pdf
  (Fruit trees)
• http//cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/618.pdf
  (Evergreens)
• http//www.na.fs.fed.us/Spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/
  prun001.htm (Shade trees)
• http//www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM19
  58.pdf (Shrubs)
• http//www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/roses/prune.html
  (Roses)

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Thank You