FASH 15 textiles

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FASH 15 textiles other fabrication methods
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fabrication methods many ways to produce fabric
other than weaving or knitting
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• fabrics from solutionsfilms
• made directly from a polymer solution
• most made from vinyl or polyurethane solutions
• structures
• plainfirm, dense, and uniform usually
  impermeable to air and water have excellent soil
  resistance
• expandedspongier, softer and plumper air cells
  incorporated into compound
• supportedplain or expanded attached to a support
  fabric

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• fabrics from solutionsfoams
• made by incorporating air into elasticlike
  substance
• polyurethane most common
• known for bulkiness sponginess
• used as
• carpet backing underlay
• furniture padding
• pillow forms
• laminated to fabric for apparel interior
  textiles
• shredded foam used to stuff pillows toys

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fabrics from fibers some fabrics made directly
from fibers or fiber-forming solutionsno
processing of fibers to yarn include very old
(felt tapa) new processes (netlike fruit bags)
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• fabrics from fibersnonwoven or fiberweb
• nonwovensomewhat confusing, refers to wide
  variety of fabric structures
• nonwoven fiberwebinclude
• all textile-sheet structures
• made from fibrous webs
• bonded by mechanical fiber entanglement, resin,
  thermal fusion or the forming of chemical
  complexes
• properties controlled by
• fiber arrangement
• fiber properties
• binder properties

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• fabrics from fibersweb production
• quick inexpensive to produceoften ½ cost of
  woven
• select fibers
• forming web
• bonding web together
• five techniques
• dry-laidcarding or air-laying fibers in random
  or oriented pattern
• wet-laidslurry of short paper-process-length and
  textile-length fibers and water
• spun-bondedmade immediately after melt-spun
  fibers are extruded from spinnerets
• spun-lacejets of water forced through web
• melt-blownextruding polymer through single
  orifice into high velocity heated air-stream to
  break ultrfine fiber into short pieces

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• fabrics from fibersfabric production
• webs have very little strength in unbounded form
• become fabrics through
• mechanical needlingneedle punching
• application of chemical compounds, adhesives,
  heat
• can be finished to meet customer needscoating,
  laminating, printing, flocking, dyeing or
  finishing processes
• flame retardant
• water repellent
• antistatic
• breathable
• absorbent

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• fabrics from fibersfiberfill
• batting, wadding, and fiberfill are not fabrics
  but VERY important components in apparel
  interiors
• battingmade from new fiber
• waddingmade from waste fiber
• fiberfillmanufactured fiber staple made
  especially for use as a filler
• downundercoating of waterfowl
• fiber density shifting resistance important
  consideration for all

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• fabrics from fibersfusible nonwovens
• contribute body and shape to garments as
  interfacing or interlinings in shirts, blouses,
  dresses outerwear
• coated with heat-sealable, thermoplastic
  adhesivebonds to fabric by heat and pressure
• eliminate the need for stitching
• less skilled labor is required
• may generate problems in shrinkage separation
  of layers during care

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• fabrics from fibersfelt
• mat or web of wool or mostly woolfibers held
  together by interlocking of wool scales
• most craft felts are not true felt because they
  do not contain woolusually wet- or dry-laid
  nonwoven fiberwebs
• do not have grain, do not ravel
• stiff, less pliable weaker than other
  structures
• quality depends upon quality of fibers
• used in apparel accessories, crafts technical
  matting

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fabrics from fibersnetlike structures include
all textile structures formed by extruding one or
more fiber-forming polymers as a film or network
of ligaments or strands
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• fabrics from yarnsbraids
• narrow fabrics in which yarns interlace
  lengthwise diagonally
• good elongation
• very pliablecurve around edges nicely
• used for
• trims
• shoelaces
• technical component coverings

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• fabrics from yarnslace
• openwork fabric with complex patterns or figures,
  handmade or machine made using several methods
• most commercial lace made by raschel knitting
  machines or special lace machines
• yarns may be twisted around each other to create
  open areas
• classified according to way it is made
  appearance
• quality based on fineness of yarns, number of
  yarns per square inch, closeness of ground,
  intricacy of design

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fabrics from yarnsembroidery only technique
in which yarn can be arranged in almost any
direction usually considered an aesthetic or
surface design, also used to create technical
textiles (sensor)
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• composite fabrics
• composite fabrics combine several primary and/or
  secondary structures into a single structure
• coatedcombines textile fabric with polymer film
• poromericcombines textile fabric with
  microporous film
• suedelikeneedle-punched fabrics made from
  microdenier fibers combined with resin coating
  nonfibrous polyurethane
• flockedhave fine natural or synthetic surface
  fiber applied to base fabric
• tufted-pileyarns carried by needles forced
  through fabric formed into cut or uncut loops
• laminatestwo layers of fabric combined into
  onewith an adhesive or foam

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• composite fabrics
• composite fabrics combine several primary and/or
  secondary structures into a single structure
• stitch-bondedcombine textile structures by
  adhering fabric layers with fiber or yarn loops,
  chemical adhesives, or fusion of thermoplastic
  fibers
• quilted fabricsconsist of three layers face
  fabric, fiberfill or batting, and backing
  fabricbonded with thread, chemical adhesive or
  fusion
• supported-scrim structurescombine lightweight
  nylon scrim and loose warp-knit fabric between
  two layers of polyurethane foam (Vellux)
• fiber-reinforced materialscombine fibrous
  component with polymer of resin, metal or ceramic
  matrix

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• animal productsleather
• processed from skins hides of mammals,
  reptiles, fish birds
• hides vary in size, thickness and grain
• grainmarking resulting from skin formation
• other surface factors
• bites scratches
• scars
• brand marks
• skin disease
• veins wrinkles
• go through many processessalting, cleaning,
  tanning, bleaching, stuffing, coloring, dyeing,
  staking finishing by glazing, boarding,
  buffing, snuffing, embossing

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animal productssuede popular leather for
coats, jackets, dresses, trims, upholstery
wallcoverings soft, dull surface made by
nappingrunning skin under coarse emery sanderon
flesh side to pull up fibers grain-sueded
leather (nubuck)napped on grain side has
velvetlike hand durable, but requires special
caremoisture damages suede
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• animal productsfur
• animal skin to which the hair, fleece or fur
  fibers are attached
• mostly used in apparel, but also for throws and
  rugs, wall hangings, animal toys
• natural productsvary in quality
• good quality has very dense pile depends upon
  health of animal, season it was killed (late fall
  best)
• cost depends upon fashion, supply demand, and
  work involved in producing item
• chinchilla, mink, sable, platina fox
  erminealways most expensive

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• participation activity
• fabrication identification
• using the fabric grab bag or your own resources
  at home, locate an example of one of the many
  fabric/products discussed today
• attach your fabric to a sheet of paper and
  provide the following information
• name
• type
• fabrication method/process
• indicators of quality
• uses