FASH 15 textiles

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FASH 15 textiles basic weaves fabrics
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• basic weaves fabrics
• a fabric is a pliable, planelike structure that
  can be made into 2- or 3-dimensional products
  that require some shaping flexibility
• fabric quality describes many characteristics
• freedom from defects
• uniform structure appearance
• production performance
• consumer performance
• important to textile producers, designers,
  retailers consumers

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• woven fabrics
• made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at
  right angles
• warp yarnsyarns in lengthwise direction (ends)
• filling yarnsyarns in crosswise direction (weft)
• common characteristics
• made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at
  right angles
• many different interlacing patterns give interest
  and texture to fabric
• yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides
• fabrics have grain
• fabrics are relatively stable, with little
  stretch in warp or filling

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the loom http//www.youtube.com/watch?vcqjhvOuKL
R8NR1 hand looms http//www.youtube.com/watch?
vGLNalNO2yTgNR1featurefvwp air-jet
loom http//www.youtube.com/watch?vpgLstMHhLfY
rapier loom http//www.youtube.com/watch?vYOY_d
hy8AQ0NR1 projectile loom http//www.youtube.c
om/watch?vX3vjBYID0fc circular
loom http//www.youtube.com/watch?vXFFCAa1QHH4
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• characteristics of woven fabrics
• warp filling differentiation
• selvage is always parallel to lengthwise
  direction (warp)
• most fabrics have a lower elongation in warp
  direction
• warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel
  in the fabrics because of loom tension
• fancy or special-function yarns are usually in
  the filling direction
• fabric characteristics may differentiate between
  the warp and filling directionsEXAMPLE poplin
  has filling rib satin has warp floats
• warp yarns tend to have higher twist are
  similar and more uniform in structure and
  appearance
• fabric crimp is usually greater for filling yarns
  since they must curve over or under warp yarns
  due to
• loom operation
• warp yarn count tends to be higher
• than filling yarn count
• if yarn-dyed stripes are in one
• direction only they tend to be in
• the warp direction

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• characteristics of woven fabrics
• graingeometry or position of warp yarns relative
  to filling yarns
• on-grain fabric has lengthwise grain parallel to
  warp yarns crosswise grain parallel to filling
  yarns
• off-grain fabrics create problems in production
  usedo not drape properly or hang evenly and
  printed designs are not straight

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• characteristics of woven fabrics
• fabric count
• number of warp and filling yarns per square inch
• indication of qualityhigher count, better
  quality
• balance
• ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in fabric
• balanced fabric 11
• selvage
• lengthwise self-edge of a fabric
• formed differently on different looms

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• characteristics of woven fabrics
• fabric width
• loom determines fabric width
• handwovennarrow (27-36 inches)
• commercialexceed 60 inches
• consumer market45-60 inches or 54-60
• fabric weight
• describes how much a given area or length of
  fabric weighs
• importantidentify appropriate use name
• lightweight/top weightweigh lt 4.0 oz/sq yd
• medium weight4.0-6.0 oz/sq yd
• heavyweight/bottom weight weight gt 6.0 oz/sq yd

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• naming diagramming woven fabrics
• fabric names are based on
• fabric structure
• fabric weight
• yarn type
• yarn balance
• finishes

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• plain weave
• simplest of the three basic weaves
• formed by yarns at right angles passing
  alternately over and under each other
• least expensive weave to produce
• no technical face or back unless printed
• general characteristics
• tend to wrinkle easily
• less absorbent than other weaves
• raveling less of a problem
• yarn type greatly influences
• these characteristics
• CREATE A PLAIN WEAVE

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• balanced plain weave
• simplest plain weave
• warp filling yarns are same size same
  distance apart
• wider range of end uses than fabrics of any other
  weave
• most widely used type of woven fabric
• can be made in any weight
• lightweight sheergeorgette, chiffon, voile,
  organdy, organza
• lightweight opaquelawn, batiste, China silk,
  habutai, challis
• medium-weightpercale (calico, chintz, cretonne,
  polished cotton, glazed chintz) muslin,
  flannelette, outing flannel, gingham, chambray,
  madras, pongee, honan, ripstop nylon, ripstop
  taffeta, true crepe
• heavyweightweavers cloth, homespun, crash,
  butcher cloth, burlap, hessian, osnaburg,
  flannel, tweed

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• unbalanced plain weave
• significantly more yarns in one direction than
  the other
• creates ribridges of varying size depending upon
  number size of yarns
• lightweight ribbed fabricscrepe de chine
• medium-weight ribbed fabricsbroadcloth, taffeta,
  shantung
• heavyweight ribbed fabricpoplin, faille, rep,
  bengaline, ottoman, grosgrain, bedford cord

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• basket weave
• made with two or more adjacent warps and two or
  more fillings
• interlacing pattern similar to plaintwo or more
  yarns follow same parallel path
• most common are 2x2 or 4x4
• variations include 2x1 and 2x3
• fabrics that have a basket weave
• dimity
• oxford cloth
• sailcloth
• duck
• canvas
• hopsacking
• monks cloth

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• twill weave
• each warp or filling yarn floats across two or
  more filling or warp yarns with a progression of
  interlacings by one to the right or the left
• forms a distinct diagonal line or wale
• can be made on a simple loom
• have technical face backface has most
  pronounced wale
• fewer interlacings allow yarns to
• move more freely
• softer, more pliable recover
• better from wrinkles
• soil shows less on uneven face
• of twill weave than plain weave
• CREATE A TWILL WEAVE

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• even-sided twill weave
• expose an equal amount of warp and filling yarn
  on each side of fabric
• reversible
• even-sided twill weave fabrics
• foulard or surah
• serge
• twill flannel
• sharkskin
• herringbone
• houndstooth

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• warp-faced twill weave
• have predominance of warp yarns on face
• stronger more resistant to abrasion piling
• warp-faced twill weave fabrics
• lining twill
• denim
• jean
• drill
• covert
• chino
• gabardine
• cavalry twill
• fancy twill

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• satin weave
• each warp floats over four filling yarns and
  interlaces with the 5th filling yarn with a
  progression of interlacings by two to the right
  or the left
• can be produced on simple loom
• lustrous because of long floats on surface
• yarns can be packed very closely together
• face back look significantly different
• high count gives strength, durability, body,
  firmness, wind repellency
• fewer interlacings gives
• pliability and wrinkly resistance,
• but yarns may snag, slip or
• unravel easily
• CREATE A SATIN WEAVE

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• satin weave
• satin weave fabrics
• satinwarp faced (warp floats cover surface),
  filament yarns
• crepe-back satincrepe yarns give softness
  drapeability
• sateenspun yarns, come in filling sateen warp
  sateen