Mekong%20Journey

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Mysterious Mekong
Impressions from Expedition Mekong
2002 by Reinhard Hohler, Chiang Mai
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Photograph 1
Expedition Mekong 2002 started with Bangkok
Airways flight to Jinghong in Xishuangbanna, Yunna
n/China. Bangkok Airways is one of the foreign
airlines that serves Jinghong.
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Photograph 2
Simao Port is the northernmost point, from where
the Lancangjiang or Mekong River is
navigable. Cargo ships bring from there beer and
apples further down south.
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Photograph 3
A hydropower station at the Lancangjiang. The
Chinese government plans to build up to eight
dams along the river to generate electricity and
industrialize the river.
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Photograph 4
The Shanghai-built 8 tons heavy hovercraft
Golden Quadrangle is parked on a
sandbank. American Rodney Soensken is waiting to
get in.
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Photograph 5
The hovercraft is resting on the bank of the
Mekong River in Jinghong. In the background, the
modern structure of the new Jinghong Bridge is
seen across the river.
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Photograph 6
A Dai dancer from Xishuangbanna, a tropical
paradise that is also called the land of the
peacock. This nice lady is waiting to perform a
traditional dance to wish us away.
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Photograph 7
Mr. Ma, Master of Jinghong Port, is saying
farewell to the expedition members and the
Chinese crew, slithering south on the Mekong
River towards the heart of Southeast Asia.
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Photograph 8
This is the triangular stone that marks the
Green Triangle border between China, Laos and
Myanmar. The stone inscribed in three languages
was erected in 1992.
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Photograph 9
Small banana plantations along the Lao side of
the river. The main highway in Northern
Laos always was and still is the Mekong River.
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Photograph 10
A colorful dance group of Thai Yai or Shan ladies
gives us a heartily welcome in Wan Pong, Shan
State/Myanmar. The Burmese authorities allowed us
to stop there without a visa.
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Photograph 11
An impressive casino is awaiting guests from
Thailand and far away in the infamous Golden
Triangle where the borders of Myanmar, Laos and
Thailand meet.
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Photograph 12
A white landmark pagoda on a hill south of the
old town of Chiang Saen in Northern Thailand. Wat
Phra That Pha Ngao is one of the most sacred
pilgrimage sites in Chiang Rai Province.
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Photograph 13
Chiang Khong in Chiang Rai Province is an
important entry gate to Northern Laos. It is also
the place where giant catfish abound.
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Photograph 14
The ferry port and immigration station of Ban
Houay Xai/Laos opposite Chiang Khong/Thailand. The
re are plans to build a bridge to facilitate
traffic from Thailand to Luang Nam Tha and China.
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Photograph 15
The mysterious Mekong River passes Pakbeng
between the green mountains of Northern
Laos. Laotian slow wooden boats are waiting for
passengers on their way further south.
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Photograph 16
The busy ferry port of Pakbeng is the point,
where the road to Oudomxai begins. From Pakbeng
across the river it is possible to reach Nan
Province in Thailand.
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Photograph 17
The hovercraft lands near a Hmong resettlement
village. The Hmong tribe belongs to the Lao
Sung, who normally settle more than 1000 m high.
Belgium Cyrillus Van Tilborgh looks on.
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Photograph 18
This is the impressive Buddhist cave of Tham Ting
opposite the mouth of the Pak Ou River. Some 30
kilometers north of Luang Prabang, it is a very
well known sightseeing place.
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Photograph 19
Buddhist monks during their daily morning rounds
to gather alms from the people of Luang
Prabang. The peaceful world heritage site was
founded in 1353 by King Fa Ngum of Lan Xang.
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Photograph 20
The grave of the French naturalist Henri Mouhot,
who died near Luang Prabang in 1861. Henri Mouhot
is well known as the discoverer of Angkor Wat in
Cambodia.
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Photograph 21
The hovercraft stops in Pak Lai/Laos to fill
gasoline that was supplied in drums. At least
every 300 kilometers, there had to be a filling
station able to provide 600 liters of gasoline
for the hovercraft.
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Photograph 22
A sala or rest house at the river port of Pak
Lai/Laos. Pak Lai is half way between Luang
Prabang in the north and Vientiane, the capital
of Laos, further on.
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Photograph 23
Pak Chom, Loei Province in Thailand. A
traditional racing or dragon boat that every
village along the river normally have. These
boats are rowed at the end of the rainy season.
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Photograph 24
Approaching Vientiane, we came across the first
cruise liner along the river. Many houses and
restaurants are still built on stilts along the
riverbank.
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Photograph 25
Vientiane Port is 4 kilometers downstream from
town. Vientiane is the smallest capital
of Southeast Asia and is just developing its
Golden Mile along the river.
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Photograph 26
That Luang is the most sacred site in Vientiane
and the rallying point of the nation. In front of
the golden lotus bud stupa is a memorial for King
Setthathirat, who reigned in the 16th century.
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Photograph 27
The Friendship Bridge south of Vientiane. This
bridge connects Tha Dua in Laos with Nong Khai in
Thailand and was built in 1994 with the financial
help of Australia.
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Photograph 28
Wat Phra That Tha U-then in Nakhon Phanom
Province, Thailand. The lotus-shaped pagoda
is right at the river and houses Buddhist relics
from Yangon, the capital of Myanmar.
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Photograph 29
Catholic Church Saint Anna in Nakhon
Phanom/Thailand. Nakhon Phanom is a center for
Vietnamese people, who fled from Vietnam during
the French colonial times.
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Photograph 30
New immigration and river port of Nakhon Phanom
opposite Thakhek/Laos. It is planned to build a
bridge there to facilitate traffic between
Thailand, Laos and Northern Vietnam.
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Photograph 31
The new emerging river promenade of Nakhon
Phanom. There are some very old monasteries along
the river, housing some venerated Buddha images.
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Photograph 32
This is a sacred Buddha image at Wat Sikhottabong
south of Thakhek in Laos. The members of the
expedition receive a blessing there, while Dr.
Peter Brimble and son look on.
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Photograph 33
That Phanom Pagoda in Nakhon Phanom Province,
Thailand. This is the most sacred
pilgrimage place in the whole of I-San or
Northeastern Thailand, dating back to the time of
the Buddha.
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Photograph 34
Ho Keo Tower, Mukdahan/Thailand. This museum
tower is the landmark of Mukdahan Town and gives
a panoramic view of the countryside and opposite
Savannakhet in Laos.
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Photograph 35
Huge sandstone cliffs dominate the landscape
along the river in I-sans Ubon Ratchathani
Province. In Pha Taem National Park, there are
3.000 years old prehistoric rock paintings.
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Photograph 36
Pakse is a bustling market place at the mouth of
the Se Don River. It can be reached from Chong
Mek border town in Ubon Ratchathani Province and
is located at the foot of the Boloven Plateau.
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Photograph 37
Sunset over the western part of Champasak
Province near Pakse Town in Southern
Laos. Champasak is part of the Emerald Triangle
that comprises Laos, Thailand and Cambodia.
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Photograph 38
A new bridge over the Mekong River south of
Pakse. The bridge facilitates traffic coming
from Thailand to reach Route No.13 that connects
Northern, Central and Southern Laos.
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Photograph 39
Wat Phu, Champasak Province in Southern Laos. The
world heritage site along the Mekong River is
dominated by a linga-shaped mountain and was an
outpost of the ancient Khmer Empire.
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Photograph 40
Ban Hat in Champasak Province. Arriving at Don
Khong Island, the hovercraft has to be taken out
of the river in order to get transported around
the waterfalls.
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Photograph 41
The impressive site of Khon Phapheng waterfall.
This waterfall is at the eastern end of the many
channels of the Mekong River at Si Phan Don or
4.000 islands.
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Photograph 42
The lower end of Khon Phapheng waterfall, where
the intriguing Irrawaddy dolphins abound. The
waterfall is a real hindrance for any movements
of ships on the Mekong River.
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Photograph 43
This is a view of Li Phi waterfall at the western
side of Don Khon Island. The French tried to
bridge this part of the treacherous river with
the help of a railway line.
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Photograph 44
A performance of a bai-si ceremony for the
members of the expedition on Don Khong
Island. Here a mother lets her daughter sing,
accompanied by music on a bamboo khen
instrument.
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Photograph 45
The hovercraft is transported around the
waterfalls on a flatbed trailer. All the
hardware for this expensive operation had to come
twice from Klong Toey in Bangkok.
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Photograph 46
Veun Kham in Southern Laos. The hovercraft is
heaved from the flatbed trailer to the
ground, waiting to be back in the river near the
Cambodian border.
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Photograph 47
The hovercraft has to be pulled by ropes and
human force to find its way back into the
river. Also, the last endemic river dolphins can
be sighted not far from this place.
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Photograph 48
Don Crolor/Cambodia. At the unknown river border
between Laos and Cambodia time stands
still. High-level immigration officials from
Phnom Penh made the expedition pass without any
problems.
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Photograph 49
A beauty of Stung Treng/Cambodia. The river
market town is located at the confluence of the
Se San, Tonle Sre Pok and Se Khong rivers.
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Photograph 50
While we are slowly passing the Sambor Rapids
near Kratie, a fisherman tries to sell a
freshwater fish. Rice and fish is the stable food
for all Cambodians.
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Photograph 51
The hovercraft is docked at Kratie Port for
refueling. The town was the last border
town within Cambodia during the French River
Expedition in 1866-67.
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Photograph 52
A timeless scene along the Tonle Thom or Mekong
River in Cambodia. A Khmer rice farmer goes for a
daily walk with his cattle.
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Photograph 53
A lonely Cham fisherman on the mighty Mekong
River near Kampong Cham in Cambodia. The Cham
belong to the Muslim minority and once lived
along the coast in Vietnam.
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Photograph 54
The new bridge across the Mekong River at Kampong
Cham that was recently constructed by Japanese
engineers. Traffic can go from Phnom Penh to Ho
Chi Minh City in Vietnam.
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Photograph 55
A ceremonial welcome performance for the
expedition at the port of Phnom Penh. Long after
sunset, the hovercraft has arrived under guidance
of local pilots.
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Photograph 56
Phnom Krom at the mouth of the Siem Reap River to
find the entrance to Angkor. This southern
mountain dominates the end of the fish-rich Tonle
Sap Lake.
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Photograph 57
Angkor Wat is a religious and cultural wonder of
the world. Built by King Suryavarman II during
the 12th century, the five towers of the stone
castle reflect in a temple pond.
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Photograph 58
An excellent view of the Royal Palace in Phnom
Penh, built in Khmer style with French
influence. From here, King Sihanouk today
commands Chadomukh or the river of 4 faces.
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Photograph 59
The ferry town of Neak Luang. There, National
Highway No.1 crosses the Mekong River to connect
Phnom Penh with Ho Chi Minh City in Southern
Vietnam.
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Photograph 60
A floating sala is marking the Cambodian border
post at the bank of the Mekong River. There is a
daily connection with the Vietnamese town of Chau
Doc in the Mekong Delta.
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Photograph 61
Goodbye to the Kingdom of Cambodia. At the
Cambodia-Vietnam border checkpoint, we
are welcomed by a friendly official, who stamps
our passports to continue into the Mekong Delta.
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Photograph 62
The Vietnamese border checkpoint of Tien Giang.
The communist government has supported Expedition
Mekong 2002 with the outmost enthusiasm.
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Photograph 63
Can Tho Port. We arrive late at Can Tho, a
Vietnamese university town in the delta, and are
transferred to the nearby Victoria Hotel.
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Photograph 64
Victoria Hotel in Can Tho. Two Vietnamese maidens
give a welcome reception for the members of the
expedition at the hotels riverside pavilion.
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Photograph 65
A mystical naga goddess in a Vietnamese temple
near Oc Eo in the Mekong Delta. Oc Eo was the
most ancient port at the mouth of the Mekong
River some 2.000 years ago.
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Photograph 66
Cruising in Vietnams fertile and populous Mekong
Delta, we pass busy dragon boats painted with
eyes and village houses on stilts with many
television antennas.
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Photograph 67
A cargo boat loaded with sand illustrates the
industrious activities going on in the Mekong
Delta that has been occupied by Vietnamese
settlers since the 18th century.
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Photograph 68
Approaching Ho Chi Minh City, we come across the
first ocean ship after a journey of 3.000 km on
the Mekong River, in Vietnamese auspiciously
called Cuu Long or river of 9 dragons.
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Photograph 70
The Chinese crew is in a jubilant mood after
having passed all the obstacles and river
passages from China on the way to Ho Chi Minh
City. Our Lao interpreter looks on.
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Photograph 70
The 6 explorers, who made it in 15 days from
China to Vietnam on the Mekong River. Nobody will
ever forget this once in a lifetime experience.
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Photograph 71
Ho Chi Minh City/Vietnam Raising the Chinese
flag to return on the Mekong River back to
China. Reinhard Hohler, tour director of
Expedition Mekong, fulfills the mission
successfully.
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Photograph 72
On the way back to Chiang Mai with Bangkok
Airways from Jinghong/China. One month on the
river has highlighted the spirit of exploration
and co-operation in the Greater Mekong Sub-Region.