Breaker Classification

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Breaker Classification
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Breaker Classification
Surf Similarity Parameter Irribarren Number
Deep Water Wave Height
Beach Slope
Deep Water Wave Length
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Wave Setup Setdown
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Rip Currents - Infragravity Waves Edge Waves
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Wave Setup Setdown
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(Van Dongeren and Svendsen, 2000)
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How are wave height variations generated ?
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Ursell, 1952
Eckart, 1951
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Field Measurements (Schubert, 1991)
1990 Jan (3-4) 1m SSW June (5-7) 1m
SSW Oct (3-5) 3m SW
Sub-infragravity Period (O) 1000 s
Peak Infragravity Period 200 s
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Edge Wave Periods
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Te 120 s