When Change Coils

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When Change Coils
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• In the world of e-liquid vaporizers, every
  working rig has a heating element inside.
  Regardless of whether it is an atomizer,
  cartomizer, wick, or cotton-based rig, the
  heating element or coil will need to be replaced
  every so often.

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• In some of the cheaper and/or older tanks ( like
  the most common tank, the CE4 ), the heating
  element DOES NOT come out, meaning that the
  entire tank will need to be replaced every few
  weeks to two months.

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• Fear not! Those tanks are usually only a few
  dollars more than a replacement coil in a
  rebuildable tank!

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So, here's the word

• If you have had your tank for a few weeks to a
  couple of months, and you are noticing a strange
  new metallic or burnt cotton flavor, and/or if
  you have noticed a steady decline in flavor
  and/or vapor production, even on a full tank,
  then you will need a new coil.

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• Plenty of tanks use their own, proprietary
  heating element, like the Innokin iClear 30b
  which sports a unique bottom coil much larger and
  more durable than more common coils. Still,
  most tanks on the market are very similar, and
  require the exact same coils.

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• For instance, the two most common coils on the
  market today are the Unitank coils used on most
  Kanger tanks ( plus a vast majority of
  third-party "bottom coil" tanks like the G-Tank
  and the Smoktech Tumblr ) and the Vivi Nova-style
  coil used in many wick-based tanks.

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• There are a couple of caveats. In cases like the
  Protank 3 and the Aerotank, which are dual-coil
  tanks, the Kanger single-coil atomizers WILL NOT
  work EVEN THOUGH they look identical and do fit
  inside the tank. These tanks require the Kanger
  2.0 Ohm Dual-Coil atomizers to successfully fire. 

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• Further, the coils inside the T3S, Unitank, and
  Protank/mini Protank I and II will fire if
  interchanged ( they use the exact same design ),
  but don't always fit perfectly due to the size
  variations of the tanks and may leak.

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• While these tanks aren't the only exceptions, but
  don't let that worry you too much, because it's
  still not a very common problem.

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• Lastly, coils may come in different resistances,
  denoted by Ohms ( O ). This may cause confusion
  for some who are new to the vape scene, and do
  not have any electrical background however, the
  concept is far from complicated.

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• Thicker or longer wires have a higher resistance
  and will not burn as hot as lower resistance
  coils which use a thinner or shorter wire. The
  higher the resistance, the longer the coil will
  last.

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• The lower the resistance, the hotter the coil
  will burn. When using any sort of
  variable-voltage or high-voltage power supply (
  usually a battery ), it is a good idea to use a
  higher resistance coil as lower resistance coils
  may burn out rather quickly. On the other side of
  the argument, a lower-resistance coil does not
  require as much power to reach the
  same temperature.

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• In short, if you feel as though you aren't
  getting the delicious, fluffy clouds that you are
  used to getting, head on over to our shop and
  pick up some new coils. Just make sure that they
  are compatible with your tank, and that you grab
  the appropriate resistance for the type of vape
  you are looking for.

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• Just remember, lower resistance burns hotter at
  lower settings, but higher resistance can handle
  much more power ( and can get way hotter than a
  lower resistance coil without burning out, but at
  the sacrifice of battery life ).

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• To know details information, visit us

http//strictlyecig.com