C25 Feline Care

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C25 Feline Care
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Selecting the Right Breed

• Introduction When selecting the breed that is
  right for your life-style and desires, it is
  important to become familiar with the various
  breeds that are available.
• The American Cat Fanciers Association (ACFA)
  recognizes about 46 different breeds of cats.
• The 46 breeds it recognizes are not the only cat
  breeds, but represent many of the most common.

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Selecting a Mixed Breed Cat

• Many times a mixed breed cat can make an
  excellent companion.
• Generally speaking, because of hybrid vigor,
  these cats have less genetically related health
  problems than purebred animals.
• The cost of a mixed breed cat is usually
  significantly lower than pedigreed cat.

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Evaluating a Cats Disposition and Health

• The best time to get a kitten is when it is at
  least 8 weeks old (12 weeks can even be better).
• By this time, the kitten should have been weaned
  onto solid food and can withstand the stresses of
  adjusting to a new home.
• When looking for a potential pet, it is important
  to find one that has a good temperament and has
  been well socialized.
• It is also important to evaluate the kittens
  home environment. A kitten that has been raised
  in a typical home where it is used to hearing a
  television, loud music, talking, and even
  yelling, will be better adjusted.

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Evaluating a Cats Disposition

• The following are a few tests that can be used to
  see how a kitten reacts to different
  circumstances.
• Some of these tests would also be helpful when
  evaluating an adult cat.
• Hold it in your arms. Look for one that is not
  bothered at all by the situation or one that
  struggles for a minute then quiets down.
• Subject the kitten or group of kittens to a loud
  noise. Look for those that are startled, but do
  not run and hide. Kittens that ignore the noise
  or want to investigate the source of the noise
  are also good candidates. A kitten that cowers or
  hides from the sound may have fear/anxiety
  problems.

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Evaluating a Cats Disposition

• Set the group of kittens in the center of a quiet
  room and throw a balled-up piece of newspaper
  towards them. Look for the kitten that comes to
  explore the newspaper. If a kitten runs and hides
  or acts fearful of the paper, look for another.
• Pick up each kitten and cradle a minute and then
  quiets down. A kitten that fights, bites, or is
  extremely frightened may not make the best pet.
• Watch how each kitten interacts with the other
  kittens and even other adult animals. If the
  kitten acts aggressive, dominant, or bullies the
  other animals, it may not make the best pet.

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Kittens - Care During the First Year

• Quick Facts for Week 1
• Newborn kittens usually weigh about 4 ounces at
  birth.
• Newborns usually nurse every 3-4 hours.
• Because they cannot generate sufficient body
  heat, kittens will huddle close to the mother and
  with the other kittens in the litter.
• A kitten should spend about 80-90 of the time
  sleeping and 10-20 of the time eating.
• Many kittens will double their birth weight in
  the first week. They should typically gain
  1.6-3.3 ounces (50-100 grams) per week.

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Weeks 2-3

• The eyes normally open 7-14 days after birth, but
  they cannot see very well.
• The ears are normally open by 10 days after
  birth.
• By the third week, kittens can see well enough to
  find their mother.
• Their sense of smell is also well-developed by
  week 3.
• The kittens will begin trying to stand and then
  to walk during weeks 3-4.
• They will interact with littermates and begin
  developing certain social skills.
• Their teeth will also start to erupt around weeks
  2-4.

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Weeks 4-7

• Quick Facts for Weeks 4-7
• The weaning process can begin at week 4.
• By week 4, the hearing is well-developed.
• Sight is usually fully developed by week 5.
• Around week 5 the kittens often begin to groom
  themselves and others.
• Coordination and the ability to avoid obstacles
  continues to improve.
• Kittens investigative natures begin to develop
  around 4-6 weeks.
• By weeks 6-7, they begin to develop adult social
  interactions, sleeping patterns and motor skills.
  
• All their baby teeth will be erupted by week 7.
• The first visit to the veterinarian should occur
  at 7-8 weeks.
• Weeks 7-8 also provide a good time to begin
  introducing the litter box to the kittens. With
  time and the opportunity of watching the mother
  use the litter box, the kittens will soon learn
  to use it.

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Weeks 8-12

• By weeks 8-12, the kittens are ready to be
  completely weaned and can be sold or adopted out.
  
• Weeks 10-11 are when the second visit to the
  veterinarian should occur.
• Kittens should be fed 3-4 times a day until they
  are about 4 months old.
• Socialization is essential for the kitten during
  this stage.
• Begin introducing the kitten to bathing and
  brushing.

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Quick Facts for Months 4-12

• A third visit to the veterinarian should take
  place around weeks 13-14.
• Depending on the kittens vaccination program, a
  fourth visit to the vet should take place around
  4 months.
• Spaying or neutering should occur by the time the
  kitten reaches 6 months old. Many clinics will
  neuter or spay earlier than this, so contact the
  veterinarian to see what he/she prefers.
• Continue feeding kitten food throughout this
  period.
• After the kitten reaches 4-5 months of age, it
  can be fed 2-3 times a day. Once the cat reaches
  11-12 months of age, most cats can be switched to
  an adult diet and be fed only twice a day.
• The kitten will begin losing its "baby" teeth
  between 3-6 months of age.

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Behavior and Training

• Litter Box Training Here are a few suggestions
  that can make training a cat to use the litter
  box much easier
• Many kittens will learn to use the litter box
  from their mothers. This is one reason why it is
  important not to take the kittens from the mother
  too early.
• The litter box should be large enough that the
  entire cat can fit in the box easily. It should
  have a lip that is about 3 inches high. This
  keeps the kitty litter inside the box.

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Litter Box Training

• The kitty litter should be a brand that the cat
  likes. It is wise to ask the previous owner what
  type of litter the cat prefers. Any sudden change
  in the litter can cause the cat to find some
  other place.
• Choose a location for the box that is quiet and
  does not have a lot of traffic.
• Any waste in the litter box should be removed on
  a daily basis.
• The main reason a cat does not use the litter box
  is because it is too smelly and dirty.

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Teaching a Cat to Come

• Cats can learn to respond to their name and even
  come when called. The following techniques can
  help teach these commands
• Each time the cats name is said, reward the cat
  with a treat or affection. The cat will soon
  learn to associate its name with something
  positive.

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Teaching a Cat to Come

• Once the cat responds to hearing its name being
  said, move on to teaching the cat to come by
  associating the cats name or the simple phrase
  of "here kitty, kitty" with meal time. Be sure
  the cat is being fed only at meal times, twice a
  day. With the bowl in hand, say the cats name
  and say "here kitty kitty." When the cat appears,
  praise it and let it have its food.
• A clicker device can also be used as part of the
  training. To use the clicker, call the cats name
  and ask it to come. When the cat appears,
  activate the clicker device 4-5 times and give
  the cat its food or a treat. The cat will soon
  learn to associate the clicker noise with the
  fact that it has done something the owner wants.

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Behavior Problems

• Introduction The behavior problems discussed
  here are ones that can commonly affect young and
  old cats alike.
• The reason they are being discussed in a kitten
  section is that many of the problems that develop
  later in a cats life can be avoided if proper
  training takes place at an early age.

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Behavior Problems

• With any pet that has a behavior problem, it is
  always best never to strike or hit the animal.
  Cats are particularly prone to fear, and mistrust
  anyone who has physically scolded them. Following
  are a few suggestions that can be used to help
  curb many behavior problems

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Behavior Problems

• A spray bottle filled with water, when used
  appropriately, can be a great way of getting a
  cats attention and helping it stop an unwanted
  behavior.
• If the cat is caught in the inappropriate act,
  simply spray the cat and say a firm "no.
• Do this only at the precise moment the cat is
  doing something it should not. The cat will soon
  associate the water and the verbal "no" with
  things that are not acceptable. This method of
  correction is good for animals that like to
  scratch and jump on things.

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Behavior Problems

• Another way of getting a cat to stay off of
  certain places or things is to cover the area
  with double-sided sticky tape or tin-foil. These
  are surfaces that cats really dislike and will
  usually avoid.
• Provide the cat with plenty of attention and play
  time. Many behavior problems are the result of
  boredom. If human interaction is not possible on
  a regular basis, getting a second cat can be an
  excellent way of providing that extra mental
  stimulation and exercise.

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Behavior Problems

• Changing the cats environment can often solve
  the problem. For example, if a cat continues to
  use the corner of the couch as a scratching post,
  place a suitable scratching post in front of that
  corner of the couch.
• Encourage the cat to use the proper scratching
  post. If a cat likes to eliminate in a certain
  room of the house, shut the door to that room to
  keep the cat out.

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Problem Meowing Excessively

• Most kittens and even adult cats meow because of
  three common reasons
• they are in heat,
• they suffer from some sort of illness or pain,
• or they are stressed or agitated by something (a
  sound, a stranger, another animal, etc.).

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Problem Meowing Excessively

• The most logical solution for a cat that is
  meowing or howling because she is in heat is to
  have her fixed. This will promptly cure the
  problem.
• If there is a chance that the cat is sick, it
  should be taken in to a veterinarian for an exam.
  
• Animals that are stressed or agitated should be
  allowed time to be alone in an isolated area if
  they want.
• If the cat is stressed over a loss of a
  companion, try to play with the cat or provide it
  with a new toy to play with. This can often take
  the cats mind off of the stressful situation.

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Problem Nipping, Biting, and Scratching

• These are common problems in not only kittens but
  also adult animals.
• These problems often result from a kitten that is
  taught to play aggressively.
• Some cats nip or scratch because they have "had
  enough" petting, they are being touched in a
  sensitive area, or they are used to being
  dominant or aggressive.

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Problem Nipping, Biting, and Scratching

• Kittens that bite or scratch as a result of
  excited play activity should be taught that such
  behavior is not appropriate.
• To do this, only pet and praise the kitten when
  it is not biting.
• Avoid playing aggressive games where tug-of-wars
  and biting are part of the fun.
• If an un-spayed or un-neutered cat is scratching
  or biting for no obvious reason, it may pay to
  have the cat fixed. Many times an intact male or
  female will nip or bite because of issues related
  to sexual aggression.
• Be sensitive to the cats body language and
  recognize that a stiff body posture or hissing
  means that the cat has had enough and should be
  left alone.

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Problem Picky Eater

• Many cats and even larger kittens are particular
  about what they will eat.
• This is often a result of being fed treats or
  people food throughout the day.
• This problem can also occur if the cat is being
  fed "free-choice," meaning that they have access
  to their food at all times.
• Cats fed free choice often "graze" throughout the
  day and never really get hungry enough to consume
  large quantities of food.

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Problem Picky Eater

• One of the best things that can be done to help a
  finicky eater is to not feed them treats or
  snacks during the day.
• It is also helpful to feed the cat only two meals
  during the day. After each feeding, remove the
  dish after about 30 minutes if it still has food
  in it.
• Do not leave any food out for the cat to consume
  between meals.
• It is also important to not give in to begging.

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Problem Scratching Furniture

• Many cats enjoy scratching on almost anything. It
  is really a natural behavior that is used to mark
  the cats territory and stretch and strengthen
  its muscles.

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Problem Scratching Furniture

• The key to preventing this normal behavior from
  becoming a problem is to direct the cats
  scratching/clawing behaviors to objects that can
  be scratched, such as a scratching post.
• First, purchase plenty of scratching posts and
  place them around the house in the areas where
  the cat likes to scratch.
• When introducing a cat to a scratching post, it
  is often helpful to put sheets of newspaper or
  fabric around the post. This gives the cat
  something to shred with its claws.
• Encourage and praise the cat to use the
  scratching posts.
• The posts can be moved to other locations once
  the cat has learned to use them. When a cat is
  observed scratching on a forbidden item, use a
  squirt from a spray bottle to get the cats
  attention and deter it from scratching.

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Geriatric Cats

• On average, cats age five times faster than
  humans. The average life-expectancy of a cat is
  14 years and depends upon many factors genetics,
  nutrition, environment, and vaccination history,
  to name a few.
• Once a cat has entered the pre-geriatric years
  (6-7), steps should be taken by the owner to help
  ensure that the pet might obtain the most
  enjoyment from its remaining years. The following
  are basic recommendations in caring for an aging
  cat

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Geriatric Cats

• Arrange for the cat to have an annual or
  bi-annual comprehensive physical exam and
  diagnostic work-up
• A comprehensive physical exam by a veterinarian
  on a yearly basis will help to ensure that any
  health problem the animal is experiencing might
  be discovered early.
• The earlier a problem is discovered and therapy
  initiated, the better the chance of a favorable
  outcome.
• While many illnesses are incurable, if detected
  early and the proper treatment initiated, even
  incurable illnesses may be successfully managed
  for several months to years before causing
  deterioration and death.

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Geriatric Cats

• Diet As animals age, their bodys nutritional
  needs change as well. Geriatric animals generally
  require fewer calories and less protein.
• Increased fiber may help maintain proper function
  of the digestive system.
• Most pet food companies offer a reduced calorie
  or senior diet made especially for aging pets.
• It is recommended that owners make a permanent
  switch during the pre-geriatric years to a diet
  specially formulated for the older cat, and that
  the recommendations for feeding be followed.
• Obesity from overeating or from a diet too rich
  in calories is one of the surest ways to put the
  health of a pet at risk.

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Geriatric Cats

• Elimination of stress Geriatric cats do not
  adjust to physical and emotional stress as well
  as younger cats.
• Most domestic animals thrive on daily routine and
  often develop biological clocks with incredibly
  precise punctuality!
• Change in routine, temperature, and diet can all
  contribute to emotional and physical stress.
• Boarding and hospitalization are particularly
  stressful to the geriatric cat home-care under
  the supervision of a veterinarian may be more
  healthy for a geriatric pet than lengthy stays at
  a clinic or boarding facility.

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Geriatric Cats

• Development of long-term, healthy habits will
  contribute to the emotional and physical
  well-being of a cat.
• These healthy habits might also be known as
  "de-stressors" as opposed to those things
  previously listed which contribute to stress.
• Healthy de-stressors include play time,
  brushing/grooming, and reinforcement of good
  behavior with praise and nutritious treats.

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Geriatric Cats

• Be an alert pet owner Many diseases of geriatric
  animals are due to slow, almost imperceptible
  deterioration of body organs or systems.
• Unless an owner is extremely observant, many of
  these conditions may go unnoticed until the
  problem has deteriorated into the final stages.
• Careful observation of behavior, mobility,
  hearing, vision, hair coat, appetite, thirst,
  urination habits, defecation habits, weight
  changes, and other aspects of the pets daily
  routine, will help the owner notice differences
  or abnormalities if and when they do begin to
  surface.
• Early diagnosis and initiation of treatment may
  be of critical importance to the pets future and
  quality of life.

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Table 1 Basic Nutrient Requirementson a Dry
Matter Basis
Stage of Life Crude Protein Crude Fiber Crude Fat
Growth gt35 lt5 gt17
Reproduction /Lactation gt35 lt5 gt17
Normal Maintenance gt25 lt5 gt10
Old Age 25-35 lt5 gt15
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Table 2 General Guidelinesfor Food and Water
Consumption
Animal's Weight in lbs. Canned (oz.) Dry (cups) Soft (cups) Water per day in mL's AActive IInactive
Kittens 1 4.2 0.4 0.5 NA
Kittens 2 6.6 0.6 0.7 NA
Kittens 3 9 0.8 1.0 NA
Kittens 4 10 0.9 1.1 NA
Kittens 6 8 0.7 0.8 A240 I180
Cats 8 9 0.8 1.0 A320 I240
Cats 10 10 1.0 1.1 A400 I300
Cats 12 12 1.11 .3 A480 I360
Cats 14 13 1.21 .5 A560 I420
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Dental Care

• Dental hygiene is an area often overlooked in
  many animals today. Just like dogs, cats have
  problems with bad breath, tartar buildup,
  gingivitis, tooth decay, and cavities. Many of
  these are very serious problems and may result in
  life threatening disease. Prevention of dental
  disease is an important key to the healthy pet.

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Tooth Brushing

• Daily brushing of the teeth is invaluable in
  removing plaque and preventing calculus buildup.
• The ideal toothbrush for a cat should have soft
  bristles with rounded tip ends to minimize
  abrasion of the teeth and injury to the gums.
• Brush the teeth the same way you would a dog.

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Tooth Brushing
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Parasite Prevention

• Each Month
• Administer heartworm prevention. (ivermectin or
  selamectin)
• Administer flea and tick prevention in problem
  areas. Effective products include Frontline or
  Advantage.

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Parasite Prevention

• Every 3-12 Months
• Administer additional parasite prevention/treatmen
  t for roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms.
• The frequency of this treatment is based on the
  risk of recurring infections and the specific
  area where the animal resides.

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Vaccination Program

• Kittens that are 6-8 weeks old when receiving
  their first vaccination
• 6-8 weeks (first vaccination)Recommended
  distemper, rhinotracheitis, and calicivirus
• 9-11 weeks (second vaccination)Recommended
  feline distemper, rhinotracheitis, and
  calicivirus
• 12-14 weeks (third vaccination)Recommended
  feline distemper, rhinotracheitis, calicivirus,
  and rabies
• Rabies may be administered any time on or after
  12 weeks of age.

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Vaccination Program

• Kittens and adults that are 12 weeks old or
  greater when receiving their first vaccination
• Any cat greater than 12 weeks (first
  vaccination)Recommended feline distemper,
  rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and rabies
• At 2-3 weeks following the first
  vaccinationRecommended feline distemper,
  rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and rabies

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Vaccination Program

• Boosters are recommended for all animals that
  have had a series of vaccinations previously
• Recommended yearly feline distemper,
  rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and rabies
• Rabies is recommended every 1-3 years depending
  on cats age, product used, and local public
  health laws.

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Brushing and Bathing

• A main key to good grooming is good nutrition.
  Without good nutrition the pets coat will appear
  dry and lifeless.
• Cats, unlike dogs, are great at grooming
  themselves to stay clean. As a result, most cats
  do not require regular bathing, but often benefit
  from regular brushing.
• Regular brushing helps to remove dead hair and
  prevent potential hairball problems.
• Brushing also helps prevent mat formation in
  long-haired animals.
• Most types of hair coats can be categorized into
  one of two groups
• Short-haired breeds
• Long-haired breeds
• The type of hair coat the cat has will determine
  the frequency of brushing and bathing.

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Brushing

• Both short-haired and long-haired cats require
  brushing.
• Obviously, long-haired animals will require more
  frequent brushing than short-haired cats.
• Ideally, introduction to the brushing procedure
  should occur as early in the cats life as
  possible.
• It is not unreasonable to start conditioning a
  kitten to brushing soon after it is weaned.
• Kittens or adults should be introduced to
  brushing in a similar manner.
• Start by combing the cat for just a minute or so
  each day.
• This can be done while the cat is in a persons
  lap or while the cat is on a raised surface.
• Make sure that the surface is not slick and the
  cat can get its footing.
• Begin by using the fine-toothed comb.

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Brushing

• Do not worry about removing mats, just gently
  comb over the back and sides of the cat.
• Make sure the experience is a positive one by
  rewarding and praising the cat throughout the
  entire process.
• Stop the combing if the cat seems alarmed or
  frightened.
• Do these 1-2 minute combing experiences every day
  for a week or so.
• Increase the areas on the cat that are combed
  (the head, tail, legs) as the cat becomes more
  and more comfortable.
• After the cat gets used to the combing, brush the
  cat with the short-bristled cat brush. Do this
  for 1-2 minutes per day in a similar manner to
  how the cat was combed.

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Combs and Brushes

• The right grooming tools will make any brushing
  job easier. It is best to have a variety of
  grooming equipment on hand based on the cats
  coat type. Start first by combing the cat, then
  follow by brushing the cat. This will help to
  distribute the natural oils throughout the hair.

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Combs

• There are many different types of combs available
  for cats.
• Some are plastic while others are metal.
• These combs can be used to remove fleas and minor
  tangles and mats.
• If a serious mat is encountered, it is sometimes
  best to let a professional groomer remove it.
  Injury to both cat and owner can occur if the mat
  is not removed properly.
• Flea combs have very fine teeth that are placed
  close together. While combing, the flea comb will
  collect fleas and flea dirt.
• Metal combs with teeth that are farther apart are
  also available. They can be used to help prevent
  matting on long-haired cats with dense
  undercoats.
• An undercoat rake can also be used on cats with
  very thick undercoats.

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Brushes

• Brushes help remove dead hair and even dead skin
  from the cats coat.
• The brushes come as soft or hard bristled. The
  hard bristled brushes can be used to help keep a
  coat from matting and knotting, while the soft
  bristled brushes are good for short-haired cats.
• Pin or wire brushes can be used to keep
  long-haired cats from developing mats.
• These brushes have widely spaced metal bristles
  that are often tipped with a plastic coating.
• It is best to brush the coat first with a pin
  brush, followed by a good brushing with a hard or
  soft bristled brush.
• This will help to distribute the natural oils
  found in the hair throughout the coat.

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Brushing

• Long-haired breeds need to be brushed often.
  Begin by combing over the entire cat with a
  fine-toothed comb.
• Be gentle if any mats are found.
• Tenderly try to remove these mats with the comb,
  being careful not to pull against the cats skin.
  
• This can be very painful and make the cat less
  excited about future combing sessions.
• Begin on the outside edge of the mat and gently
  "tease" the fibers apart. Some mats may need to
  be clipped or cut out. A pair of scissors or
  clipper blades will do the job.
• If the mat is difficult to remove or the cat
  earnestly resists its removal, let a groomer
  finish the job.
• After the coat has been combed, praise and brush
  the entire cat.

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Brushing
53
Bathing

• Most cats do not need to be bathed.
• Exceptions to this rule include times when the
  cat gets something on or in its coat that it
  cannot remove, or when there is something on the
  coat that the cat should not remove on its own
  (oil, grease, paint).

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Bathing

• This cat is being bathed in a kitchen sink. With
  some conditioning, most cats will tolerate the
  occasional bath.

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Nail Trimming

• The most challenging part about trimming nails is
  trying to identify how much of the nail can be
  safely removed.
• In this picture, the black arrow identifies where
  the sensitive structures of the nail begin.
• The nail should not be trimmed below this point.
• In light colored nails, this area can be
  identified by the transition from light colored
  nail to a pink coloration.
• The white arrow identifies the proper location to
  safely trim the nail.

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Nail Trimming

• After the appropriate area for trimming the nail
  has been identified, the nail trimming device
  should be placed over the nail.
• Gently squeeze the instrument until it is
  touching the nail.
• Make sure the trimmers are in the right place,
  and then in one quick motion clip the nail
  completely off.
• Be sure to use sharp trimmers. If the trimmers
  are dull or the cutting motion on the nail is
  done slowly, the nail has the tendency to fray
  and split.

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Nail Trimming

• The nail in this picture has been cut properly.
• If bleeding does occur after the nail has been
  trimmed, simply apply direct pressure to the nail
  with a sterile cotton ball or pad.
• Keep the pet relaxed and confined to allow the
  blood to sufficiently coagulate.
• If bleeding cannot be stopped, seek professional
  help.

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Spay and Neuter

• In the true sense, to neuter a cat means the
  removal of part or all of the reproductive
  organs, rendering that animal incapable of
  reproduction.
• To spay refers to neutering a female cat, whereas
  to castrate or simply to neuter refers to
  neutering a male cat.

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Spay and Neuter

• Spaying female cats is one of the most common
  procedures performed in small animal veterinary
  medicine.
• To spay a cat refers to a surgery known in
  medical terminology as ovariohysterectomy.
• This word literally means removal of the ovaries
  and uterus.
• This procedure makes it impossible for the female
  cat to conceive kittens and prevents her from
  going through normal estrus or "heat" cycles.
• It should be understood that this is not a simple
  or routine procedure.
• This surgery demands great skill and attention on
  the part of the surgeon, and recovery can be
  difficult and painful for the cat.

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Benefits of Spaying

• Behavior problems are generally reduced,
  including roaming and intercat aggression.
• Estrus (heat) behavior is eliminated. Such
  behavior in cats is often very noisy and annoying
  to pet owners.
• Infections, cancer, and other diseases of the
  uterus and ovaries are prevented. Many of these
  diseases can be life threatening.
• Spaying may reduce the risk of feline breast
  cancer developing later in life.
• Spaying reduces hormonal changes which can
  interfere with the treatment of certain diseases
  such as diabetes or epilepsy.
• A spayed cat does not contribute to the pet
  overpopulation problem.

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At What Age Should a Cat Be Spayed?

• The customary age for spaying a female cat is
  approximately 5-7 months. This time may coincide
  with the animals first heat cycle.
• Spaying while the animal is in heat poses
  additional risks and should be avoided if
  possible.
• At some humane society shelters, kittens are
  spayed as early as 8 to 12 weeks of age, with no
  reported adverse effects.
• Those who advocate spaying at this early age
  suggest the operation is less stressful and may
  take less time to perform.

62
What Is the Cost of Spaying a Cat?

• This varies greatly depending upon location and
  veterinarian.
• Many private practices will discount this surgery
  far below what it should cost because many people
  select a veterinary clinic based on the prices of
  elective surgeries such as spaying a cat.
• The price for a spay can range anywhere from 50
  to over 100. When price shopping, it is
  important to ask exactly what is included in the
  cost quoted on the telephone.
• Some clinics or hospitals will include the price
  of laboratory tests, anesthetic, pain
  medications, etc., while others may not.
• Therefore, a higher estimate may actually be
  offering the better price.

63
Feline Castration

• Castrating or neutering male cats is another very
  common procedure in veterinary medicine.
• The operation involves removal of the testicles
  and the organs which provide housing for sperm
  development (the epididymis).
• A portion of the cord attaching the testicles to
  the rest of the male reproductive tract is also
  removed.
• The effect is complete removal of the organs
  which produce both sperm and testosterone.
• This procedure is generally performed more
  quickly than the feline spay.

64
Benefits of Castration

• Behavior problems such as roaming and aggression
  are generallyreduced.
• Sexual behavior by males, including spraying, is
  usually reduced or eliminated.
• Attraction toward female cats in heat is usually
  reduced or eliminated.
• Medical problems associated with the testicles in
  males are prevented from occurring. These
  problems include testicular infections and rarely
  testicular cancer.
• A castrated cat does not contribute to the pet
  overpopulation problem.

65
At What Age Should a Cat Neutered?

• The customary age for neutering a male cat is
  approximately 6 months however, as soon as both
  testicles are palpable (can be felt) in the
  scrotum, the surgery can be performed.

66
What Is the Cost of Neutering a Cat?

• It is important to inquire what is included in
  the cost of the surgery.
• Some estimates for neutering a cat include
  pre-surgical blood work and medications to manage
  pain.
• Other estimates may only include the surgery
  itself.
• The cost of this surgery is usually less than the
  cost of spaying a female cat, because the
  castration surgery is generally less time
  consuming.
• The price for a castration surgery can range
  anywhere from 40 to 100.

67
Coughing/Gagging

• Coughing or gagging is a relatively common
  problem found in cats.
• Coughing is sometimes confused with shortness of
  breath, sneezing, reverse sneezing, wheezing,
  retching, gagging, choking, and attempted
  vomiting.
• Severe coughing fits may often be followed by
  retching or vomiting which can confuse a pet
  owner into thinking a cough is actually an upset
  stomach.

68
Coughing/Gagging

• A cough generally occurs because of an
  abnormality in the lower respiratory system
  (trachea, bronchi, lungs).
• Abnormalities include inflammation to the
  sensitive tissues lining the airways, pressure
  from nearby structures on the airways (heart or
  lymph node enlargement), or fluid leaking into
  the airways or air sacs of the lungs (rodenticide
  poisoning or pneumonia).
• Coughing can also be caused by heart disease and
  cancer in the lungs.

69
Coughing/Gagging

• Listen to both sides of the cat. With practice,
  normal and abnormal lung sounds can be
  identified.

70
Hairballs

• Hairballs are a common occurrence in cats.
• Usually hairballs are more of a nuisance than a
  serious cause for concern.
• However, once in a while hairballs can create a
  problem in the cats digestive system that can
  lead to more serious problems.

71
Hairballs

• When cats groom themselves, they swallow hair
  that they shed from their coats.
• This hair normally passes through the cats
  digestive system and is expelled in the feces.
• However, there are times when a mass of hair can
  build up and not move through the cats digestive
  tract.
• This ball of hair creates a blockage that can
  interfere with the cats normal digestion.

72
Hairballs

• Cats with hairballs often vomit, cough, and gag.
  The cat may also become constipated, have a
  reduced appetite, or stop eating altogether.
• Normally, the cat can resolve this problem on its
  own by coughing or vomiting up the hairball. If
  the cat is unable to do so, there are some
  commercial products that can help the cat get rid
  of hairballs. These products often contain
  oil-like ingredients which lubricate the cats
  digestive tract and hopefully allow the hairball
  to pass through more easily.

73
Hairballs

• An appropriate diet and daily brushing can help
  prevent the formation of hairballs.
• Foods high in fiber can naturally keep things
  moving along in the cats digestive tract.
• Regularly brushing the cat helps to remove some
  of the hair that might otherwise accumulate in
  the digestive tract.
• It is recommended to brush the cat more often
  when it sheds excessively (during warm weather
  and shedding seasons) or if the cat has long
  hair.

74
Restraint

• The scruff of the neck is a common location to
  use to restrain a cat. A firm grip in this area
  allows the handler to control the cats head but
  does not cause significant discomfort for the
  cat.

75
Restraint

• This picture shows how to properly control the
  hind legs of a cat. Notice how the persons
  fingers surround each limb. A finger should
  always be placed between the limbs to prevent
  excessive forces being placed on the legs and to
  help give the handler added control.

76
Restraint

• Once the head and hind limbs are secure, the cat
  can be gently stretched into this position. Using
  this holding technique, injections can be given
  and other minor procedures can safely be
  performed on an otherwise uncooperative cat.

77
Restraint

• A cat bag can also be used to safely restrain a
  cat. This restraint method is helpful when giving
  injections, administering subcutaneous fluids,
  and giving oral medications.

78
Restraint

• This picture shows how to restrain a cat for
  collecting blood out of a jugular vein.
• Notice how the handler has control of the cats
  head and also has control of the front legs.

79
Restraint

• Similar to restraining the hind legs, a finger is
  placed between the legs to prevent placing
  excessive force on the limbs and to give extra
  control.
• At this point, the hair is often clipped in the
  jugular region. A second person will use one hand
  to hold off the jugular vein, while collecting
  blood with the other.

80
Picking up and Transporting an Injured Cat

• When handling an injured cat, be aware that even
  the most friendly cat may scratch or bite because
  of pain.

81
Normal Temperature, Heart,and Respiratory Rates
Heart Rate(Beats/Min) Respiratory Rate(Breaths/Min) Temperature(Degrees Fahrenheit)
Young Cat 130-140 20-30 100.4-103.1
Adult Cat 100-120 20-30 100.4-103.1
82
Euthanasia

• Euthanasia is the deliberate ending of the life
  of an animal with a debilitating and incurable
  disease.
• The intent of euthanasia is to mercifully end
  suffering.
• Euthanasia is a delicate subject to discuss,
  because many differing opinions exist regarding
  the ethics of this option.
• Some may view euthanasia as an alternative for a
  variety of situations, while others may not see
  euthanasia as an option for any situation.
• The intent of this discussion is to educate and
  be of assistance in making that difficult
  decision for anyone facing the possible
  euthanasia of a pet.

83
Euthanasia

• It is a simple fact of life that pets generally
  do not live as long as humans.
• Veterinary medicine has helped extend the average
  life-span of cats through the benefits of
  preventative medicine.
• Death, while it is upsetting to many, must be
  accepted as part of the cycle of life for all
  living creatures. Acceptance is the first step in
  dealing with a terminally ill pet.

84
Euthanasia

• The end of an animals life may be calm and
  painless it may also be fraught with great
  suffering and pain.
• When an animal is faced with a situation which
  causes pain and suffering, regardless of what
  that situation is, veterinarians are taught to
  relieve that suffering.
• The oath which all new veterinarians take upon
  graduation states "I solemnly swear to use my
  scientific knowledge and skills for the benefit
  of society through the...relief of animal
  suffering... ."
• Euthanasia is one method of relieving suffering
  in animals.
• There are other methods for the relief of
  terminal suffering, most involving the use of
  pain-killing drugs.
• If euthanasia is not selected, another method to
  relieve pain should be chosen in its place.

85
Euthanasia

• Timing of euthanasia is almost as difficult a
  decision as whether or not to euthanize an
  animal.
• In discussions with many owners seeking advice on
  when to request euthanasia for a terminally ill
  pet, the concept of "quality of life" is often
  addressed.
• Because it is a matter of varying opinion, no
  dictionary defines this term.
• For this discussion, the true signs of suffering
  in animals include severe pain, confusion,
  complete loss of appetite, uncontrollable
  seizures or vomiting, and severe weakness.
• Quality of life in these situations is generally
  gone and the suffering must be relieved.

86
Euthanasia

• In those situations where chronic illness slowly
  robs a animal of quality of life, the timing is
  more difficult.
• Attempts at management or slowing down the
  disease process are recommended.
• These attempts can buy more quality time for the
  pet before the disease causes true suffering.
• There is a gray area on the timing of euthanasia
  suffering should be prevented, yet the patient
  should be allowed the maximum quality time left
  to it.
• While the decision is not easy for anyone, it is
  best made by the person or people who are closest
  to the animal, with the assistance of the regular
  veterinarian. These are the people who can best
  read signs of suffering and best assess the pets
  quality of life.