Cellextra

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Life Easy With
CELLEXTRA
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THE INNOVATIVE SYSTEM FOR EASY CARE FINISHING OF
GARMENTS IMPARTING WRINKLE RESISTANCE, WASH
WEAR PROPERTIES DURABLE PRESS FINISH

• Fashion means constant change. At all times,
  however, people have wished for permanently
  beautiful, pleasant to wear and easy care
  textiles. Striving to fulfill this desire, LNCI
  offers finishers a product system called
  CELLXTRA, which convinces, amongst others, by its
  rationalised handling. Optimised process and
  product combinations make it possible to
  respond quickly and flexibly to the requirements
  of the market.
• The most important properties of the CELLXTRA
  finish
• Optimum easy care effects for cellulosics and
  their blends with synthetics.
• Elegant handle and drape, and good technological
  properties of the finished textiles.
• Long life effect the textile appears new for
  longer.
• Excellent wear comfort and good breathability.
• Easy care finish with integrated AQUAREPEL soil
  repellency system.
• Low formaldehyde finish.
• High productions speeds and process safety.
•  
• The use of autocatalysed cross-linking systems
  and multifunctional softening agents ensures
  quick and reliable handling in production. The
  softening agents especially developed for the
  finishing of garments minimize the brittleness
  caused by the cross-linking agent. The abrasion
  resistance of the finished textiles as well as
  its handle and drape is thus improved, the
  colours are intensified.

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DEMAND IN MARKET   There is an increasing demand
in the market to have a garment in which, after
washing, then hand dry or tumbler dry, there is
no ironing or very les ironing required and the
garments appearance shows No wrinkle or very
less wrinkle. These garments are known as
Wrinkle Free.   Now, there is a strong desire
for natural looking, comfortable clothing.
Consumers want a neater look in casual apparel.
The consumers life style demands the product be
carefree (little or no ironing). This
presentation describes the products and
procedures used to manufacture 100 cotton
wrinkle resistant fabric and garments having both
comfort and style.  
A high synthetic construction garment is already
likely to be a wrinkle free garment. Its
plain appearance surface will remain very similar
without much wrinkle after washing with very
limited requirement of ironing to get back a
plain surface.   To maintain cotton as major raw
material but with a characteristic of a wrinkle
free appearance adequate quantity of cross
linking resin treatment is required to stabilize
its smooth surface. The higher the cotton
content, the higher will be the resin input
required.
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WHY GARMENT FINISHING?

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• Garment finishing provides the same wrinkle free
  finish provided by post cure operations i.e.
  Permanent smoothness and crease retention
• Resistance to wrinkling while wearing, especially
  with 100 cotton fabrics
• Improved shrinkage control.
• In addition to these advantages garment finishing
  offers
• Improved performance over post-cure finishing
  especially where there is a time delay between
  finishing and garment construction. (Some curing
  in the flat occurs with time, reducing crease
  retention of garments).
• Rapid response to order for garments from
  specific fabrics.
• Production of special order finishes along with
  wrinkle resistance (water and oil repellent, high
  performance finish, very soft finish)
• Inventory reduction and control.

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WHAT TYPE OF GARMENTS CAN BE PROCESSED? WHICH
FABRICS?
All fabrics containing cellulosic hydroxyl group
can be used cotton and cotton polyester blends
are most popular. Other fibres (e.g. linen and
rayon) will benefit from treatment, but will
require additional formulating.  The chemicals
involved in this process react with cellulose
fibres to provide a permanent memory to that
fibre. Polyester fiber is inert to the resin and
will not be affected. All cotton or
cotton/polyester blend garments work well.
Garment finishing is widely used to produce
wrinkle free pants and shirts (both woven and
knit). Other garments e.g. ladies skirts, can
also be produced by this method provided a
suitable form is available on which to cure the
goods.  WHICH FABRICS SHOULD NOT BE USED? The
application of Allenlink, and Tristar series
of resins to cotton gives a wrinkle free memory
to the fibre. Increased amount will give
improved results. However, when resins are
applied to the fabric there is a strength loss
(typically 20-40 on 100 cotton fabric). The
more resin, the more strength loss. This
strength loss will show in reduced tear strength
and abrasion resistance of finished garments.
(Increased fraying of cuffs, collar, increased
tendency to tear). It is important to use fabrics
of adequate strength of good quality, long fiber,
cotton while manufacturing 100 cotton blend are
more forgiving because the polyester is not
affected and does not lose strength. However,
this can be over by addition of Modtex-PE,
Modfinish-HDNI Modfinish-NF
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PROBLEMS TO AVOID
Assuming the fabrics to be of reasonable strength
and construction, good results should be
obtained. The most common problems encountered
are   1.Fabric is too alkaline Improperly
washed fabrics can contain residual alkali. The
catalyst in Tristar and Allenlink resin is
mildly acidic and will be neutralized by the
alkali. If the catalyst is neutralized the resin
will not cure properly and results will be poor.
A properly washed fabric will have an alkalinity
of less than 0.05. In washing the fabric it may
be necessary to add a very dilute acetic acid
scouring bath followed by a rinse to remove the
last alkali form the fabric.  2.Shade
Change Some sensitive dyes will change shade
when garments are treated with resins. It is
necessary to either change to non-sensitive dyes
or dye to accommodate the change. 3.Unequal
distribution of resin solution on garments in the
washer-dryer This is a mechanical problem of
distribution of chemical spray and perhaps fabric
construction (e.g. penetration through double
fabric layers)  4.Lower performance than
expected If the treated garments have been dried
at too high temperature or too long time, some
premature curing can occur in the dryer. If this
occurs not only is resin not available to cure in
the correct (pressed) shape, but also worse, some
unwanted wrinkles can be cured into the fabric
during drying.
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• HOW ARE RESULTS MEASURED?
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• Finished garments are laundered and dried in
  normal household washers and dryers. After 3
  home launderings the garments are rated visually
  against standards available from the American
  Association of Textile Chemicals and Colorists.
  These are rated from 1 (worst) to 5 (best) for
  crease retention (in trousers) and smoothness in
  flat areas. Usually a 3.5 rating is good, 4.0
  excellent.
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• ADVANTAGES OF CELLXTRA SYSTEM
• Is suitable for all readymade garments made of
  natural fibers such as cotton or linen as well as
  man made cellulosic fibres such as rayon, tencel
  and lyocell.
• Provides non-iron effects, if desired also with
  permanent crease.
• Prevents creases during wear as well as after
  washing and tumble-drying in a household tumbler.
• Preserve size of garment
•  Allows appearances from sleek accurate to casual
  wrinkle wear
•  Gives a soft, elegant handle
•  Less effect on abrasion and tear strength
•  

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REQUIREMENT OF GARMENT BEFORE TREAMENT
Garment should be made up of the fabric with good
tensile strength.   Wash fastness of face fabric,
linings, sewing thread and waist bands i.e. the
dimension shrinking of the untreated fabric
should be below 3.   The face fabric, linings,
sewing thread and waist bands should be heat
resistance i.e. should not show dimensional
changes and dye migration at curing temperatures
i.e. 155-170ºC   Corrosion resistance of metal
parts, since the treatment bath is in acid medium
and corrosion (rust) may occur on ignoble metal
buttons, zippers and other accessories.    To
avoid bleeding and staining dyeings. Fast to
colour bleeding have to be used. Reactive
dyeings must be stable against acids and acid
catalysts.    
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WHAT IS THE PROCESS?   In general garments are
treated with chemicals in a stainless steel
rotary washer-dryer and dried at moderate
temperatures to 5-10 moisture content. The
garment are then pressed to desired shape and
cured in a oven between 160-170ºC for 5-7
mins.   Pre-cure process   The pre-cure process
is the simplest and easiest method to achieve
wrinkle resistance. Here the cross linking resin
is applied and cured in the textile finishing
mill. This method imparts a permanent memory to
the cotton fabric in a flat configuration. This
type of finishing is most frequently conducted on
fabrics where permanent pleats or creases are not
needed such as sheeting, shirting, dress goods,
knits, and some slacks. However, one
manufacturer has offered slacks made from
pre-cured fabrics where the crease was imparted
and made permanent by a silicone adhesive.
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Post-cure process This process was practiced
extensively in the 1960s. The finish, including
a cross-linking resin and catalyst, is
impregnated by the finishing plant and dried with
little or no curing. After the garment is made,
pleats and/or creases are imparted by pressing.
Finally, the garment is passed through a curing
oven where the cross-linking resin imparts
wrinkle resistance with crease retention. In
addition to permanent creases, the conventional
post-cure process also provides less seam
puckering when washed as compared to the pre-cure
process.   During processing, there are certain
precautions that the finishing plant should
exercise in order to ensure a good performing
product. The pH of the fabric before finishing
should be 5.0 7.0 with the total alkalinity not
greater than 0.05 NaOH. In order to minimize
any curing of the impregnated fabric, it should
come off the tenter frame with about 10 moisture
measured by a moisture meter. The fabric should
be wrapped cool, not hot. If the finished fabric
is to be SanforizedTM processed, water is not
sprayed and care is taken not to over dry. It
may be necessary to reduce the temperature of the
palmer unit of the Sanforizer.   Another
important consideration for post-cure is the
shipment and storage of sensitized (treated
fabric). Studies have shown that there is a
time/temperature relationship whereby premature
cross-linking may occur. This would prevent the
formation of a sharp crease when pressed, thus
the crease rating after laundering may be lower.
The type of catalyst (regular v/s hot) and resin
(buffered or not) will also have a direct
influence on premature curing.
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In the following, we present the individual
procedure, illustrated with guide recipes. In
more details the preferred treatment process Dip
saturation hydro-extract process Metered addition
process   A DIP-SATURATION-HYDROEXTRACT
PROCESS Garment has to be free from residual
alkali and other substances disturbing the cross
linking process and as described
earlier.   Procedure Step I In the first step,
the dry garments are impregnated with the
finishing solution, by maintain the MLR 110 or
115. The garments may be agitated briefly in the
solution, or a bundle of the garment may be
dipped in the finishing solution. The important
factor is that the garments become thoroughly
saturated with the finish. A typical finish will
contain a wetting agent, cross-linking resin,
catalyst, softener the garment is soaked in bath
for 30 mins.
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Bath Recipe For Dip Process   Products Shirting
Trouser Tristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 5 6 8
9 Modfinish-HDNI / Sylast-TSI 3.5
4 4 Silicone softener 2 3
4 (Luballen-AH-30/Dermasil-LIQ) Altranol-84 0.1
0.1 Catalyst-CR 0.5 0.6 0.8
0.9 Water 88.9 87.3 84.1 82 pH of the
bath 4.5 5 with Acetic Acid Step-II The
garment is hydro-extracted to about 75-80 wet
pick-up. The level of wet pick-up will depend
primarily upon the construction of the
fabric.    Step-III Tumble-drying the
impregnated garments is a critical step. If the
area to be creased becomes too dry and hot, some
curing may take place. The problem with this
partial pre-curing is that it will inhibit the
formation of sharp crease. Moisture in the area
to be creased should not fall below 10-12.
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Step-IV   PRE-CURE PROCESS  Curing After
tumble-drying curing the garments in the balloon
form in the curing chamber at 160-150ºC for 5-10
mins. (Temperature depends on products and
fabrics)   Pressing This is to bring a plain
smooth surface and a firm crease on the cured
garment. Temperature should be around
170-190ºC    POST CURE PROCESS Pressing Hot
head press After tumble-drying the garments are
pressed to bring a plain smooth surface and a
firm crease on the garment. Temperature should
be around 170-190ºC.   Curing After pressing
garments are cured in curing chamber at 160-165ºC
for 5-10 mins. (Temperature depends on products
and fabrics)
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METERED ADDITION PROCESS
Step I Applying finish solution to cotton
garments by spray system to deliver precisely the
required amount of formulation to the garments.
This is termed as Metered Addition Process.
The system compares to the dip method, except for
the application of the resin solution. Unlike
the garment dip process, which totally
saturates the garments followed by a centrifuge
extraction to a wet pick-up value, the metered
addition process applies only the necessary
amount of finish solution needed to achieve the
final pre-determined wet pick-up.   The finish
solution is applied via spray where in the
appropriate amount of finish solution is
distributed to the garments as a fine mist during
the rotational tumbling in an enclosed device
such as garment wash/dye machine or a modified
tumble dryer. To assist in allowing the finish
solution to be evenly distributed throughout the
garments, the rotation is altered between forward
and reverse during the spraying cycle. This
allows for the garments to become re-oriented,
thus permitting a greater possibility for uniform
application. After the spray application is
complete, the garments continue to rotate to
allow for the migration of the finish from high
to low concentrated areas. This time of
equilibrations will depend upon the nature of the
garments, the amount of resin solution applied
the rate of spray mist (drop size and spraying
profile). After the equilibration is complete,
the garments are the processed by the normal
sequence of tumble-drying pressing and oven
curing or tumble drying, curing and then
pressing.  
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Bath Recipe For 100 gms garment for metered
addition process Products Shirting Trousers T
ristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 4 4.5 6
7 Modfinish-HDNI/ Sylast-TSI 3 4 4 5 licone
softener 1.5 2.5 2 4 (Luballen-AH-30/Dermas
il-LIQ) Altranol-84 0.1 0.1 Catalyst-CR 0.4
0.5 0.6 0.7 Water 67.5 55.9 59.3
47.2  Total 90 90 pH of the bath 4.5 5
with Acetic Acid 100 gm weight garment is taken
in the machine and then 45 gm. of the above
solution is added and exhausted in the machine
for 10 mins., the rest 45 gm. bath is added and
exhausted for 20 mins and then garment is
  Step-II The garment is hydro-extracted to
about 75-80 wet pick-up. The level of wet
pick-up will depend primarily upon the
construction of the fabric.    Step-III Tumble-dr
ying the impregnated garments is a critical step.
If the area to be creased becomes too dry and
hot, some curing may take place. The problem
with this partial pre-curing is that it will
inhibit the formation of sharp crease. Moisture
in the area to be creased should not fall below
10-12.
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Step-IV   PRE-CURE PROCESS   Curing After
tumble-drying curing the garments in the balloon
form in the curing chamber at 160-150ºC for 5-10
mins. (Temperature depends on products and
fabrics)   Pressing This is to bring a plain
smooth surface and a firm crease on the cured
garment. Temperature should be around
170-190ºC   POST CURE PROCESS    Pressing Hot
head press After tumble-drying the garments are
pressed to bring a plain smooth surface and a
firm crease on the garment. Temperature should
be around 170-190ºC.    Curing After pressing
garments are cured in curing chamber at 160-165ºC
for 5-10 mins. (Temperature depends on products
and fabrics)  
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ADVANTAGES OF THE METERED ADDTION
PROCESS Process include the use of simplified
equipment, no waste, no effluent, no
contamination of the finish bath, no
contamination of the finish bath, no depletion of
individual components, the use of premixed finish
solutions and the ability to perform wet on wet
processing. AQUAREPEL An option in the
CELLXTRA system Recently, the use of fluorocarbon
polymers in the manufacture of high-quality,
trendy fabrics especially for trousering has
become more and more common. With its
surface-AQUAREPEL types, LNC offers speciality
products that confer additional water-, oil- and
soil-repellent properties to the textile.
water
soil
oil
fc
fc
fc
fc
Fibre
Water- and oil-repellency through
AQUAREPEL-fluoro polymers
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AQUAREPEL The invisible fibre protection system
  ? Preserves colours and fabrics ?
Makes textiles dry faster ? Makes fabric
care childs play water-repellent ?
Oil- and soil-repellent ? Breathable
Resistant to washing and dry
cleaning ? Weather proof
AQUAREPEL
WATER - OIL - SOIL REPELLENT
L.N. Chemical Industries
PERMANENT FABRIC PROTECTION SYSTEM
After washing, it is recommended to iron the
textile in order to re-activate the protection
system   Not only factors like brand, cut,
colour, design, etc., but also the wear
properties of the textile play a decisive role in
the customers decision to buy.
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Wrinkle resistance combined with stain resistance
Method-I Bath recipe for Dip Hydroextract Process
 Products Shirting Trouser  Tristar-L-112/Tr
istar-ULF 5 6 8 9 Modfinish-HDNI 3.5
4 4 Dermasil-SFC / Dermasil-FC 2 - 3 2
4 Aquarepel-XC/conc 2 4 2
6 Catalyst-CR 0.5 0.6 0.8
0.9 Water 88.9 87.3 84.1 82 pH of
the bath 4.5 5 with Acetic Acid  
Bath recipe for metered addition
process  Products Shirting Trouser Tristar-L-
112/Tristar-ULF 4 5 6 7 Aquarepel-XC/conc
2 4 2 6 Dermasil-SFC / Dermasil-FC 2 - 3
2 4 Modfinish-HDNI 3 4 4
5 Catalyst-CR 0.4 0.5 0.6
0.7 Water 78.6 73.5 75.4
67.3 Total 90 90
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CELEXTRA Product system
LNC provides a product system that meets
individual demands and offers quick and flexible
process solutions
No. Product Ionic Nature Product character
I Low formaldehyde cross linking agent Low formaldehyde cross linking agent Low formaldehyde cross linking agent
Tristar-L-112 Non-ionic/Weakly cationic Low formaldehyde based resin
Tristar-ULF Non-ionic/Weakly cationic Low formaldehyde based resin
Tristar-GH Non-ionic to weakly anionic Non formaldehyde based resin
Tristar-F Non-ionic to weakly anionic Non formaldehyde based resin
II Catalyst Catalyst Catalyst
Catalyst-CR Non-ionic Co-catalyst
III Softening agent Softening agent Softening agent
Dermasil-SIN Non-ionic Silicone softener (very low yellowing)
Luballen-AH-30 Non-ionic Silicone softener (non-yellowing)
Dermasil-LIQ Non-ionic Silicone softener (very low yellowing)
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No. Product Ionic Nature Product character
III Softening agent Softening agent Softening agent
Dermasil-SFC Non-ionic Fluoro carbon compatible softener
Dermasil-FC Non-ionic Fluoro carbon compatible softener
IV Stain and water repellant Stain and water repellant Stain and water repellant
Aquarepel-XC/conc Non-ionic Fluoro carbon base product
Aquarepel-XAN Cationic Highly efficient durable, Fluoro carbon extender
V Secondary polyolefin additives for improving abrasion and tensile resistance Secondary polyolefin additives for improving abrasion and tensile resistance Secondary polyolefin additives for improving abrasion and tensile resistance
Modsoft-PE Cationic Improves sewability and abrasion resistance
Modfinish-HDNI Non-ionic to weakly cationic Improves sewability and abrasion resistance
Sylast-TSI Nonionic to weakly Cationic Improves sewability and tensile strength
VI Polyurethane Polyurethane Polyurethane
Permafin-UR Amphoteric Excellent inner softness, peach like effect
Permafin-ZF Nonionic to weakly cationic Excellent inner softness full hand
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L. N. CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES
OFFICE ADDRESS - 403, Antariksh,
Makwana Road, Marol Naka, Andheri (E), Mumbai
400 059 Tel.- 91- 22- 4221 6789 (30 Lines)
91- 22- 6692 4112 Fax -91-22- 2836 6434
FACTORY ADDRESS - D- 14 /10, T.T.C. M.I.D.C
Industrial area, Turbhe , P.O.K.U.Bazar, Navi
Mumbai 400 705 Tel.-91- 22- 4141 9899 (30
Lines) Fax -91- 22- 4141 9888
Email ID ketan_at_lnchem.in
LNCHEM_at_VSNL.COM