Drone Lab Construction Drawings

1
Drone Lab Construction Drawings

• Casper Electronics
• Version 2.1
• Updated January 7th, 2009

2
Prepare!

• These diagrams will serve as a step-by-step
  document to aid in the assembly of your Drone
  Lab!
• To start off, you are going to be needing a
  number of materials and tools
• - Soldering Iron
• A cheap radio shack unit will technically work,
  but a nicer temperature controllable iron will
  save time and frustration.
• - Solder
• Whatever type you prefer, small gauge solder
  helps avoid excessively large joints.
• - Wire Cutters
• The type with the flat cutting edge for nipping
  leads off close to the board.
• - Needle Nose Pliers
• - Flathead Screwdriver
• - Solder Wick
• Extremely helpful when removing shorts /
  de-soldering joints.
• - Multi-Meter
• Extremely helpful in debugging. Get one that
  beeps when it detects electrical
• continuity, and learn how to use all the
  functions!

3
Parts List Totals

• Heres the parts that are required to build a
  functional Drone Lab. They are all included in
  the kit. In the following pages youll see
  pictures of each component. If you purchased a
  kit, please make sure you have all of the
  components shown. There was great effort paid to
  making sure all of the kits went out complete,
  but if indeed a mistake was made contact us
  directly. Note, if you received an enclosure, you
  should have received a hardware bag that includes
  nylon standoffs.

4
Parts List Individual Values

• Values of component numbers, helpful if youre
  building off the board silkscreen.

5
Parts Kit

• Which component is which value.

6
Resistors
It is highly recommended that you sort the bag of
resistors into piles before proceeding to
assembly. Each diagrams is a screenshot of the
board with the component for that page
highlighted. With the components sorted, assembly
will be more efficient.
The Resistor Color Code For the kit resistors,
ignore the 3rd Band.
7
100? - 1
8
470? - 1
9
1k? - 5
10
2.2k? - 8
11
10k? - 14
12
22k? - 6
13
51k? - 2
14
56k? - 1
15
100k? - 18
16
330k? - 4
17
470k? - 1
18
1M? - 4
19
4.7 M? - 2
20
Capacitors
-Note For those who purchased kits, the kit
ships with 5 values of capacitor that look almost
identical. Written on them is the capacitor code,
but the kits were assembled in such a way that
the quantity of each of these similar-looking
capacitors is also an indicator. -Another Note
The radial capacitors (220, 100, 10, 2.2, and 1
uF) should be inserted so the longer lead goes
through the square hole. THIS IS DIFFERENT FOR
THE LEDs.
10uF
100uF
2.2uF
220uF
2200pF
1uF
.1uF
1000pF
10pF
4700pF
.022uF
21
10pF - 2
22
1000pF - 1
23
2200pF - 2
24
4700pF - 3
25
0.022uF - 4
26
0.1uF - 16
27
1uF - 1
28
2.2uF - 4
29
10uF - 10
30
100uF - 3
31
220uF - 1
32
Transistors
The transistors physical shape should match the
silkscreen of the component from the top.
Otherwise the transistor will not function
properly. Note The transistors should be
installed before the switches.
33
2N3904 - 7
34
2N3906 - 8
35
Diodes
The 1N4001 has the thickest leads, and the 4148
has tape on the ends.
36
Red LED - 6
NOTE The longer lead of the LED should go in the
CIRCLE hole. - This is different from the
capacitors -
37
8.2 V Zener - 1
38
4148 - 1
39
1N4001 - 1
40
Switches
-Tip Try and solder the support lugs for extra
durability!
41
DPDT Slide Switches - 10
42
Potentiometers

• Note After the potentiometer has been inserted
  into the board, the legs can
• be bent apart to ensure a strong hold of the
  board. This will keep torsion load from twisting
  the knob from loading the active electrical
  solder joints.

43
10k? Pots - 4
44
50k? Pots - 12
45
1M? Pots - 9
46
Jacks Power
47
1/8 Mono Jack w/ Switch - 3
48
5.5mm Switching DC Jack - 1
49
¼ Mono Jacks - 2
50
PC Mount Battery Box - 1
51
9V Battery - 1
52
Integrated Circuits

• -NOTE Solder the sockets in, and then put 14 Pin
  ICs into the sockets to avoid overheating the
  ICs. All ICs should have their notch on the left.

53
14 Pin DIP Sockets - 4
54
7809 - 1
55
CD 40106 - 1
56
TLC556 Timer - 2
57
TL074 - 1
58
Breakout Points

• The Drone Lab was designed to be simple and
  expressive. It was also designed to be modified
  and hacked. There is a small area to the left of
  the audio jacks for custom circuitry, and many
  breakout points where wires can be soldered in,
  and traces can be cut to enable users to modify
  the signals.
• The Drone Lab was designed to be a fully
  functional synthesizer using nothing but the
  board and components. However, the circuitry can
  be housed in any number of ways, and custom
  switches, potentiometers, and LED indicators can
  be added by the user. Its your Drone Lab, do
  what you want with it! This section of
  documentation will show some points we thought
  would be useful to have easy access to, and
  provided breakout holes for wires for just that
  reason. If you come up with any interesting
  modifications, please share them with us and the
  rest of the Drone Lab community on the forums!
  Happy Hacking!

59
Mid-Board Breakouts
For Version 1.2 of the board, we have provided a
mid-board breakout of all connections running to
the potentiometers of the Drone Lab. This allows
for the board to be cut in half for more flexible
enclosure designs. Below is a labeling system
that will help with running flying wires to
potentiometers. When in doubt, follow the traces
or use a multi-meter!
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38
39
Sample Pot (TOP VIEW)
1 2 3
If you cut off the bottom, dont forget about
R63, C42 C43!
60
Hardware

• There are two different hardware kits. The first
  is what ships with every Drone Lab, and the
  second is for the Laser Cut housing plates.

61
Debugging

• This isnt the easiest to assemble kit out there.
  Still, with a little patience and attention to
  detail, especially in creating great solder
  joints, the unit should be able to be built
  within 8 hours. If it doesnt work the first time
  do not despair, our units didnt work the first
  try either.
• Some Tips for Debugging
• - Look for missing or loose solder joints, cold
  solder joints can drive you nuts! Look to heat up
  the surfaces of both the lead and pad such that
  the solder forms a concave curve to the surfaces.
  
• - When in doubt use your Multi-Meter! Check for
  continuity where there should be, and where there
  shouldnt be.
• - Follow the circuit schematic of failing
  systems. Look for abnormalities of continuity or
  missing / wrong direction components.
• - Keep Hope Alive. Youll get it working soon
  enough! Remember to have fun, youre building an
  analog synthesizer!

62
Thank You!

• Thanks again for your business, we hope you enjoy
  your Drone Lab. If you have any questions,
  comments, or content, share it on the forums!
• http//www.casperelectronics.com/ghostwizard/