Sewing Machines

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Sewing Machines

• Presented By
• Adnan Mazari
• adnanmazari86_at_gmail.com
• TUL,CzechRepublic

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• History
•  1790The first workable sewing machine was
  invented and patented by the British inventor
  Thomas Saint., Limitationthread has to go all
  the way in the fabric with needle and mechanical
  fingers were used,
• 1830 French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier
• (1793-1857), patented the first practical
• sewing machine.
• 1834 The earliest idea for a double-thread
  sewing machine came from Walter Hunt (1796-1860)
  of New York in 1834.
• In 1851, Issac M. Singer (1811-75) patented the
  first rigid-arm sewing machine. 

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• 1856The sewing machine combination was formed
  consisting of Singer,Howe,Wheeler Wilson and
  Grover Baker,
• Other known names in the sewing machine history
  are Allen Wilson(reciprocating shuttle),Wheeler(Ho
  ok),Miller(button hole)

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• Machine
• A machine is a thing that helps a person
• to do something by using or changing
• energy
• Definitions of sewing
• Sewing or stitching is the fastening of cloth,
  leather, furs, and other flexible materials,
  using needle and thread.
• Sewing Machine
• Any mechanical or electromechanical device used
  for fastening of cloth, leather, furs, and other
  flexible materials, using needle and thread.

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• Sewing machines Parts

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Sewing Machine Basic Mechanism
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Feed Dog and Bobbin Mechanism
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• Classification of Sewing machines
• Sewing machines can be classified or categorized
  by
• type of use
• (leather,button hole,carpet,etc ..)
• Bed shape
• (cylinder bed,flat bed,post bed, etc..)
• stitch formation
• (chain stitch ,lock stitch etc)

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• Classification of Stitch (Stitch Type)-

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• Class 100 - Chainstitch
• a Needle thread slacks at the position
  where needle slightly goes up from its
  lowest position, and looper catches the
  needle thread which has become like a loop.
• b Needle comes off the cloth and the cloth
  is fed.Looper rotates and removes the thread
  which the looper caught before while pulling
  in the needle thread. Needle bar continues
  going up and needlethread take-up lever lifts
  the thread.

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• c Looper continues rotating and pulls in
  the thread in the centre of the looper and
  thread take-up lever tightens the thread which
  the looper removed before.
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• d Cloth feed is finished and a stitch is
  formed.
• Needle penetrates the cloth to continue to
  next stitch,

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• Stitch Type - 101
• Approximate Seam lengthThread
• Consumption ratio 15
• Single thread chainstitchs are often used for
  temporary stitching

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• Class 200 - Hand Stitch
• This type of stitch is formed with one thread. It
  is a machine made version of traditional hand
  stitching
• sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch.
• Applications of Hand Stitch
• Decorative stitch of suits or the like Kimono
  (Japanese national dress) Button sewing of coats,
  suits, etc. (FBS-340N-1)

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• Class 300 Lockstitch
• Approximate SeamThread consumption ratio 12.5
  for stitch type 301

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• Applications of Lockstitch
• General sewing ,2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7),
  Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch,
  Decorative stitch, Bartacking (LK-1900),
  Lockstitch buttonholing (LBH-790RS-1), Button
  sewing (LK-1903/BR25), Pocket sewing (APW-196)
  and Pattern sewing (AMS-210D).

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• Class 400 - Double Chainstitch
• For class 401.
• Approximate SeamThread consumption ratio 15.5

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• Stitch Type 407
• Approximate SeamThread consumption ratio 1
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• Applications of Double Chainstitch
• General sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching,
  Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc.,
  Eyelet buttonholing (MEB-2688), Side seam
  (MS-1190), Belt loop making (MFB-2600).

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• Class 500 - Over-edge Chainstitch
• Stitch Type 503Approximate SeamThread
  consumption ratio 110.5
• Cloth which is largely expanded, blind
  over-edging, prevention of fray at material end
  (ASN-397/serging machine), Overlock sewing
  machine (MO-3904, Cylinder-bed overlock sewing
• machine (MOC-3914).

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• Class 600 - Covering Chainstitch
• Approximate SeamThread consumption ratio
  120.0
• This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads two
  needle threads (A) and (A1) one looper thread
  (B) and one cover thread (C). Loops of thread
  (A) and (A1) are passed through loops of thread
  (C) already cast on the surface of the material,
  and then through the material where they shall be
  interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the
  underside.
• Decorative stitch for lace attaching to
  underwear, swim-suits, etc

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• Sewing Needles,
• A sewing needle is a long slender object with a
  pointed tip. The first sewing needles were made
  of bone or wood modern ones are manufactured
  from high carbon steel wire, nickel- or gold
  plated for corrosion resistance. The highest
  quality embroidery needles are made of platinum.
• 1) Shank
  2) Shaft
• 3) Groove
• 4) Scarf
• 5) Eye
• 6) Point

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SHANK The upper thick part of a sewing machine
needle is called the shank. This part of the
needle is inserted in the machine. Home sewing
machine needles are composed of a flat and a
round side, to assist in always having the needle
in the correct position. SHAFT The shaft of a
sewing machine needle is the area from the bottom
of the shank to the point. The shaft contains the
groove, scarf, eye and point of the
needle. GROOVE A groove is in the side of the
needle leading to the eye. The groove is a place
for the thread to lay into the needle.
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SCARF The scarf is a groove out of one side of
the needle. The scarf allows the bobbin case
hook to intersect with the upper thread and form
stitches. EYE The eye of the needle carries the
thread so the machine can keep forming stitches.
POINT The point of the needle is the first
contact with the fabric and responsible for how
the needle pierces the fabric.
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TYPES OF SEWING NEEDLES 1. Hand sewing
needles. 2. Machine sewing needles. 3. Special
purpose needles. Sharps are needles used for
general sewing. They have a sharp point, a round
eye and are of medium length. The difference
between sharps and other sewing needles can
mainly be seen in their length. Embroidery
needles, also known as Crewel needles, are
identical to sharps but have a longer eye to
enable easier threading of multiple embroidery
threads and thicker yarns. Betweens or Quilting
needles are shorter, with a small rounded eye and
are usually used for making fine stitches on
heavy fabrics such as in tailoring, quilt making
and other detailed handwork.
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• 2. MACHINE NEEDLES
• The most common machine needles for standard
  running stitch are universal ball point needles,
  
• Category according to use are 
• stretch needles
• Jeans needles denim needles
• leather needles

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SPECIAL PURPOSE NEEDLES
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DETERMINATION OF NEEDLE SIZE
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Stitch Fault
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• References
• Grace Rogers Cooper ,the Invention of Sewing
  Machines,Washington 1968
• Grace I. Kunz , Ruth E. Glock,Apparel
  Manufactruing ,Sewn product analysis,,4rth
  Edition,
• www.howstuffworks.com

Thankyou