FACS Unit 4: Clothing and Textiles

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FACS Unit 4 Clothing and Textiles

• Mrs. Judy Moore
• 45 class periods

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4.1 Match the terms related to clothing and
textiles

• See handout

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4.2 List the factors to consider in clothing
selections

• Individual wants and needs
• Resources
• Lifestyle
• Climate
• Suitability of garment for the individual
• Peer Influence
• Fashion Trends
• Advertising
• Cultural Traditions

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4.2.1 Determine factors that affect clothing
selections

• Planning a wardrobe
• Wardrobe--all the clothing you have to wear
• Accessory--shoes, purses, ties, scarves, hats,
  gloves, jewelry
• Building a wardrobe
• Replace basic items that are worn-out
• Add mix and match garments
• Update with accessories
• Build up a weak area of wardrobe

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Determine factors that affect clothing selections

• Design
• Express personal identity
• Outward personality
• bold colors
• large/exciting prints
• bold/many accessories
• tend to wear fad items

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Determine factors that affect clothing selections

• Classic personality
• tailored clothing
• small patterns
• minimum accessories
• Classic, understated dress often indicates that
  a person is secure and self-confident. Classic
  dress works well for a job interview.

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Determine factors that affect clothing selections

• Natural Personality
• neutral colors
• soft lines
• minimum accessories
• Persons with athletic ability and/or interest
  in the outdoors often choose natural styles.

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Determine factors that affect clothing selections

• Choose clothing appropriate for special occasions
• work, school, social occasions, climate,
  community
• keep in mind the nonverbal message your clothing
  is sending to others

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Determine factors that affect clothing selections

• Quality
• Are all stitches straight and even?
• Are seam edges finished to prevent raveling?
• Is the fabric cut with the grain?
• Are plaids, stripes, and large designs matched at
  the seams?
• Are points of strain reinforced?
• Are interfacings used for proper shape?
• Do buttonholes appear sturdy and free of raveling?

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Determine factors that affect clothing selections

• Quality, continued
• Are zippers inserted neatly, and do they work
  smoothly?
• Are buttons and accessories suitable for garment?
• Are the seam allowances and hems wide enough for
  future adjustments?
• Are the hemming stitches inconspicuous on the
  right side of the garments?

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Determine factors that affect clothing selections

• Clothing Care
• Proper care of clothes helps assure a neat
  personal appearance.
• Take care not to damage or soil your clothing
• Open fasteners so that clothing slips off easily
  without putting strain on any part of the
  garment.
• Launder properly

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LAUNDERY TECHNIQUES

• Read labels
• contain correct procedures for regular
  maintenance
• required by Federal law
• Sort clothes
• Done to prevent damage to other clothing articles
• Sort by color, fabric, surface texture and degree
  of soil
• Prepare clothes for laundering
• Remove excess soil
• Check pockets
• Fasten fasteners
• mend any rips to prevent them from becoming
  larger
• Pre-treat stains and heavy soil
• treat promptly
• rinse from the back side to push stain out
• test products on underside of hem or facing to
  prevent discoloration

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Laundry Techniques

• Laundry Products
• Soap--are made with fats
• react with the mineral in hard water
• form white cloudy curds which float through
  water
• these curds cling to fabrics making clothing look
  dull and dingy

• Detergents--petroleum products
• may be low sudsing or high sudsing
• easier to get brighter wash than by using soap
• dont use on wool--digests protein in wool

• Chlorine bleach--used to remove stains in whites
  and to disinfect
• can cause damage if poured directly on fabric

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Laundry Techniques

• Oxygen bleach--removes stains and whitens clothes
  through use of ultraviolet dyes
• safe for all washable fibers
• should be used regularly to keep clothes white
  and bright
• Water softeners--neutralize calcium and magnesium
  ions found in hard water
• a ring around the bathtub or sink after water is
  drained is a sign of hard water
• water softener keeps clothes from looking dull
  and gray
• softener may be added before the soap or
  detergent is added
• Fabric Softeners--makes fabrics soft and fluffy
• helps control wrinkling
• controls static electricity
• can be a liquid used in rinse cycle or sheet
  added to dryer
• read infants clothing before adding/can change
  flammability rating

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Laundry Techniques

• Using washing machine
• distribute items evenly for good cleaning action
• dont overfill
• select a wash cycle suitable for the wash load
• select temperatures that will accommodate all
  articles in wash
• Using dryer
• items can be dried on line
• not recommended in smoggy areas
• suitable method of most fabrics/may need to iron
• Drying flat--reduces stretching and prevents
  shrinking
• Tumble drying--gas or electric dryers
• permanent press--moderate heat to reduce wrinkles
• regular cycle--for items not heat sensitive
• air fluff--used to freshen items

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Laundry Techniques, continued.

• Ironing--a process of moving an iron across
  fabric to smooth wrinkles.
• Done after a garment has been laundered
• Pressing--a process of lifting the iron up and
  down to apply pressure in one area of a garment
  at a time.
• Pressing is done as you sew to mold a garment to
  fit the curves of your body
• Done to touch up areas of garments after they
  have been laundered

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Laundering Techniques, continued.

• Pressing rules
• use proper setting for fabric type to prevent
  scorching or melting
• test on underside if not certain of proper
  temperature
• iron along the lengthwise grain of fabric to keep
  from stretching garment out of shape
• use a pressing cloth on wool, velvet or any other
  fabric that might develop a shine.

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Laundering Techniques, continued

• Dry Cleaning
• used for delicate items
• tell dry cleaner about stains and spots so they
  can pre-treat
• can request that sizing be added to a limp
  garment
• water repellent can be restored (only recommended
  method of cleaning of water repellent items)
• specific technique required for cleaning leather
  (can be costly)
• need to consider cost of cleaning method before
  buying clothing because cleaning method adds to
  final cost of garment

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4.3 Describe ways to create special effects in
clothing selection by using the elements and
principles of design

• Elements of Design
• Vertical lines--make the body seem taller
• Horizontal lines--lead the eye across body,
  making it seem broader
• Bulky textures--add apparent size
• Smooth texture --takes away from apparent size
• Shiny texture--gives the illusion of increased
  size
• Subtle pattern--gives the illusion of a solid
  color
• Bold Patterns--draws attention and adds size
• Round or square shapes--increase size
• Tubular shape--taller and slimmer
• Cool colors--reduce size
• Warm colors--increase size

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4.3 Describe ways to create special effects in
clothing selection by using the elements and
principles of design

• Round or square shapes--increase size
• Tubular shape--taller and slimmer
• Cool colors--reduce size
• Warm colors--increase size

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4.3 Describe ways to create special effects in
clothing selection by using the elements and
principles of design

• Principles of Design
• Proportion--If you make one part of body look
  long, wide, or large, then another section will
  appear shorter, narrower or smaller.
• Emphasis--is the point of interest that your eyes
  see first. Use to draw attention to your best
  feature.
• Harmony--the feeling that all parts of a design
  belong together
• must have something in common such as style,
  shape, color or size.

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4.3 Describe ways to create special effects in
clothing selection by using the elements and
principles of design

• Rhythm--the feeling of movement, leads the eye
  around the garment
• repeating color or shape in accessories or design
  features
• Balance--feeling of equal weight
• Symmetrical balance--like a mirror reflection of
  the other side
• Asymmetrical balance--two sides of the garment
  are different in size, form, texture, color
• Scale--refers to the overall size of a design
  detail or its size compared to other details
• small prints for small person
• larger prints for larger person

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4.4 List the factors to consider in evaluating a
garment according to basic construction techniques

• Correct stitch length is used
• Stress areas are reinforced
• Buttonholes are well-made
• Fasteners should be applied to at least three
  layers to keep them from pulling out
• Stripes and plaids match
• Seams should be smooth and flat
• Garment should be free of imperfections
• Hem is straight and even

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4.5 State the guidelines for selection and use
of clothing accessories

• Enhance personal features
• Adds interest to garment
• Reflects fashion trends
• Too many accessories make a garment look busy

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4.6 Describe care and storage techniques for
clothing and accessories

• A. Storage for in-season clothing
• NoteIn-season clothes are those worn at the
  present time.
• Avoid overcrowding closets and drawers
• Group similar items together in closets and
  drawers.
• ExamplesSocks, underwear, shirts, pants,
  jackets.
• Use drawer dividers, silverware trays, and shoe
  boxes to organize drawer space.
• Double closet space by hanging one rod above
  another
• Hang similar lengths together

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Accessories, storage
ExampleGloves,scarves,caps Mount small hook or
tie rack on closet door or walls to hold small
items. ExampleTies, belts, scarves,
necklaces Store small items in storage bags
pockets. ExampleSocks, belts,(rolled up), shoe
polish supplies, care labels, extra buttons and
yarns that come attached to garments. Store
seldom-worn items in boxes under the bed or on
top shelf of closet.
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4.7 Chart the natural and synthetic fibers with
sources of each

• Natural Fibers
• Cotton
• Wool
• Flax ( Linen)
• Ramie
• Silk

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4.7 Chart the natural and synthetic fibers with
sources of each

• Note there are many types of manufactured
  fibers, these are the most common types
• Acetate
• Acrylic
• Modacrylic
• Nylon
• Olefin
• Polyester
• Rayon
• Spandex
• Triacetate

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4.8 State the factors to consider when selecting
a pattern

• Determine type of garment to be constructed.
• Examples Casual, formal, warm weather
  garment, cool weather garment.
• Study pattern catalogs to become familiar with
  sections and information provided.
• Examples Measurement charts, pattern
  illustrations for different figure types, skill
  development sections.
• Select correct pattern type and size.
• Choose a pattern with design lines that enhance
  ones body shape.

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• Select a pattern suitable for personal sewing
  skills.
• Example Select an easy-to-sew pattern for
  beginning projects.
• Choose more complicated patterns as sewing skills
  become more advanced.
• Note Trying to use patterns that are too
  difficult often causes one to feel discouraged
  and displeased with the finished garment.

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4.9 Name the steps in determining pattern type
and size

• A.Take body measurements.
• B.Select figure type.
• C.Select pattern size.

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4.10 Designate the specific information found on
a pattern envelope

• Envelope front
• Figure Type (optional)
• Pattern Size
• Price of Pattern
• Pattern number
• Front view(s) of pattern
• Name of pattern company

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B. Envelope back Figure type Pattern
number Number of pattern pieces in envelope
Detailed description of finished garment.
Sketches of back views of pattern Body
measurements and size charts Amount of
fabric required for each pattern size.
Suggested fabrics for pattern
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Specific instructions for different types of
fabric Examples Extra yardage needed for
napped fabrics not suitable for
diagonals,checks, strips,and plaids. Notions
needed for each view Examples
Buttons,zippers,snaps,hooks and
eyes,trims,thread,elastic,cording Name of
pattern company
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4.11 State questions to consider when choosing
fabric for selected pattern

• A. Is fabric suitable for selected pattern?
• Note A list of suitable fabrics is found on each
  pattern envelope.
• B. Is fabric appropriate for individual?
• Examples Color enhances personal clothing
  lines, prints, and textures, are suitable for
  body size and shape.

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• C. Is fabric suitable for expectations of
  garment.
• Examples Durable,washable fabrics for active
  sportswear knitted fabric for active wear
  firmly woven, medium weight fabrics for
  professional suits.
• D. Is fabric washable?
• E. How much will fabric cost?
• F. Will fabric be easy to handle?

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• G. Are woven fabrics on-grain or easy to
  straighten?
• Woven fabrics is on-grain when lengthwise and
  crosswise yarns fall at right angles to each
  other,
• H. Is fabric durable?
• Fabric should be strong enough for intended use.
• I. Will fabric be comfortable?
• NoteFabrics characteristics such as absorbency,
  breath ability, and stretch ability, affect
  wearing comfort.
• J. Is Fabric free of flaws?
• Note Check before yardage is cut.

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4.12 Explain the procedure for calculating
yardage for a specific garment

• A. Determine size of pattern to be used.
• B. Choose view of pattern to be constructed.
• C. Determine fabric width.
• Note Fabric width is the distance across the
  fabric from one selvage to the other. Typical
  fabric widths are 36-inch, 45-inch, and 60-inch.
• D. Refer to chart on back of pattern envelope to
  determine needed yardage.

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4.12.1 Calculate yardage for a variety of sewing
projects
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4.13 List the factors to consider when choosing
notions

• A. Refer to back of pattern envelope for list of
  needed notions.
• B. Purchase notions when fabric and pattern are
  purchased, when possible.
• C. Check labels to be sure that care requirements
  for notions and fabrics are the same.
• D.Check yardage chart on back of pattern envelope
  to determine needed yardage for notions to be
  purchased by the yard.

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• E. Choose notions suitable for weight of fabric.
• F. Select notions suitable for fashion fabric and
  garment design.
• Sewing Machine thread
• Serger thread
• Zippers
• Trim
• Interfacing
• Buttons
• Elastic
• Snaps and hooks-and-eyes.

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4.14 Identify basic sewing equipment and use of
each

• A. Measuring
• Tape measure- Used to take body measurements.
• French curve-Used for drawing curves areas when
  making or altering patterns
• Dressmakers ruler-Measures and marks short,
  straight lines
• Seam-Gauge--Used for measuring short distances.

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Skirt marker- Used to measure and mark hemlines
of garments with either chalk or pins. Hem
gauge-Used for measuring and pressing hems. B.
Pinning Pins-Used for laying out pattern pieces,
holding two layers of fabric together while
stitching, and marking hemlines. Pin
cushions-Hold pins and needles that are inserted
into the padded area. Magnetic pin holder-Holds
pins magnetically on an open surface.
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C. Cutting Dressmaker shears-Used for cutting
large pieces of fabric. Pinking shears- Used to
finish seam edges on firmly woven fabric. Sewing
scissors-Used to trim an grade seams, clip
curves, and cut into corners. Appliqué
scissors-Used to grade seams and trim close to
edge stitching. Embroidery scissors-Used for
detail work such as cutting threads, ripping
stitches, and opening buttons. Seam ripper-Used
for ripping out stitching.
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Thread clippers-Used to clip thread ends for
stitches. Rotary cutter-Cuts fabric, leather,
vinyl, film, and paper as it is rolled along the
cutting board. D. Marking Tailors Chalk-Use for
making fabric. Marking pen-Makes marks on fabrics
similar to ink marks. Tracing paper-Used with
tracing wheel to transfer pattern markings to
fabric. Tracing wheel-Used with tracing paper to
transfer pattern markings to fabric.
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• E. Stitching
• Needles-Use for hand sewing.
• Thimble-Used to push needle through fabric and
  protect finger while sewing by hand.
• Needle threader-Used to facilitate the process of
  threading a needle.

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• G. Miscellaneous
• Point turner-Used for pushing out points of
  collars, cuffs,etc.
• Bodkin-Used for inserting elastic or drawing in
  casings.
• Collar point and tube turner-Used for turning
  points quickly.
• Loop turner-Used to turn bias tubing or cording
  for decorative trim

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4.15 Identify basic pressing equipment and use
of each

• Pressing Equipment
• Iron-Use for pressing and ironing.
• Ironing board-Used under an iron for ironing or
  pressing garments.
• Press cloth- Placed between iron and fabric to
  protect fabric from shine and the iron from
  fusible resins.

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• Blocking board-Used as a surface for
  straightening fabric, cutting out garment pieces,
  and pressing.
• Sleeve board-Used for pressing narrow areas which
  cannot fit over end of ironing board.
• Point presser- Used for pressing corners and
  points.
• Tailors ham-Used to press curved areas of a
  garment such as curved seams and darts.

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Seam roll- Used for pressing seams open so seam
allowance does not show through to right side of
fabric. Press mitt-Used, as it fits over the
hand, for pressing hard-to-reach areas. Pounding
block-Used to flatten seam edges on bulky
fabrics. Needle board-Used as a surface for
pressing fabric with a pile.
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4.16 Identify the basic parts of a sewing machine
and function of each

• Bobbin-Small spool that holds the lower thread.
• Bobbin case-Holds bobbin and regulates tightness
  or looseness or lower thread.
• Bobbin winding spindle-Holds bobbin while it is
  being wound with thread.
• Feed dog-Grips fabric and moves it toward the
  back of the machine during stitching.

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• Feed dog drop-Releases feed dog to allow fabric
  to stay in place.
• Hand wheel-Turns by hand to control movement of
  the needle and the thread take up lever.
• Needle-Carries top thread through fabric to
  connect with bobbin thread to make a stitch.
• Needle clamp screw-Tightens to hold needle
  securely in place.
• Presser foot-Holds fabric in place for sewing.

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• Presser foot lever-Raises and lowers the presser
  foot.
• Pressure control dial-Adjusts amount of pressure
  on the presser foot.
• Reverse stitch control-Allows machine to stitch
  backwards.
• Spool spins-Holds spools of thread.
• Stitch length control-Lengthens or shortens
  stitches.
• Stitch pattern panel-Sets machine for various
  decorative stitches.

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• Stitch selector-Sets machine for various stitch
  patterns.
• Stitch width selector-Adjusts width of zigzag
  stitch.
• Take up lever-Causes upper thread to move up and
  down with needle to make stitches.
• Tension control-Regulates tightness or looseness
  of upper thread.
• Thread guides-Guide upper thread from spool pin
  to needle.
• Throat plate-Covers area around feed dog.

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4.16.1 Identify the basic operating guidelines
for operating the sewing machine

• A. Changing the needle.
• Refer to manufactures instruction manual for
  specific instructions on changing the needle.
• Turn hand wheel until needle is in its highest
  position.
• Loosen needle clamp screw.
• Remove old needle.
• Place flat side of new needle in the direction it
  should face according to directions.

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• B.Threading the machine
• Refer to manufactures instruction manual for
  specific instructions on threading the needle.
• Wind and insert bobbin.
• Thread top of machine.
• Pull up bobbin thread.
• C. Machine stitching
• Forward stitching
• Backstitching

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• D. Adjusting tension
• Adjust tension on top of thread.
• Adjust tension on bobbin thread.
• E. Adjusting stitch length
• Locate stitch length control on machine.
• Set stitch length at 10-15 stitches per inch for
  medium-weight fabrics.
• Increase stitch length for heavy or
  highly-textured fabrics.
• Decrease stitch length for lightweight, sheer
  fabrics.

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• F. Adjusting pressure on the presser foot.
• Make adjustments to achieve light pressure when
  sewing on heavy fabrics or many layers of fabric.
• Make adjustments to achieve firmer pressure when
  sewing on lightweight fabrics.
• G. Lowering and raising the feed dog
• Lower feed dog when fabric needs to be held in
  one place and not fed through the machine.
• Raise feed dog when fabric is to be fed-through
  the machine.

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4.17 Name the steps in constructing a simple
garment using a pattern

• Select pattern
• Select appropriate fabric and notions
• Fit the pattern
• Prepare the fabric
• Preshrink and straighten
• Position Pattern Pieces
• circle the layout youre using
• check the layout instructions
• fold the fabric as shown in layout
• position largest pieces first

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• Cut out the pattern
• Mark the fabric
• Baste the large pieces to fit garment
• hand basting
• pinning
• Directional stitches
• pattern tissues have arrows pointing to grain
  direction
• stitch from the wide to the narrow part of
  garment
• sew from the hem to the waist
• Staystitches
• to prevent stretching
• Seams
• right sides together
• back stitch 3 stitches at the end of each seam
• press seam flat before moving to next step

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• Interfacings
• applied before the facing is attached to garment
• used to prevent stretching
• adds shape
• 3 kinds of interfacing
• sew-in
• fusible
• combination fusible and sew-in
• temporary hold/washes out
• Facings
• grading--trimming the seam allowances in layers
• notching--outward curves
• clipping--inward curves

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• Sleeves
• gathered
• set-in

• Casing--tunnel that holds elastic or drawstring
• Hems--the bottom edge of garment
• slip stitch
• machine stitch
• blindstitch
• topstitch

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4.17.1 Demonstrate transfer of pattern markings
to fabric

• A.Center front line-Solid line indicating
  location of the center of the garment.
• B.Circles- Symbols that indicate where two
  garment pieces are to be matched or joined
  together.
• C.Buttonholes- Solid line that shows length and
  location to buttonhole.
• D.Grain Line-Heavy solid line with arrows at both
  ends that shows grain of fabric.

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• E. Fold Line-Solid line showing where pattern is
  to be placed on the fold of the fabric.
• F. Adjustment line-Double parallel lines
  indicating where pattern piece can be lengthened
  or shortened.
• G. Hem line- Solid line showing the finished edge
  of garment and hem depth.
• H. Dart-Solid line showing where the fold is to
  be and two broken lines with circles showing
  location of stitching lines and termination point.

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4.17.2 Construct a simple garment using a pattern

• BBQ apron

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4.18 Describe specific hand sewing techniques

• See hand out

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4.18.1 Demonstrate hand sewing techniques

• Video--Fear of Sewing
• Hands on activities
• threading a needle correctly
• how to secure thread without a knot
• buttons
• snaps
• basting
• running stitch
• backstitch

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4.19 Describe clothing repair techniques

• Stitch a ripped seam
• re-stitch by machine or hand
• use double stitching in areas of stress
• Fix a snag
• use a small crochet hook or snag fixer or a
  needle threader
• grasp snag and pull back to underside
• Mend a tear
• straight tear can be mended with zigzag
• Patch a hole
• apply a patch by hand, machine or fusing

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4.19.1 Demonstrate clothing repair techniques
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4.20 Discuss the occupations related to clothing
and textiles

• Account Executive Fashion Writer College Prof.
• Creative Director Fashion Illustr.
• Art Director Fashion Photographer
• Photo Stylist Sewing Class Teacher
• Fashion Promotion Specialist
• Advertising Copywriter Runway Model
• Fashion Reporter Fashion Editor
• Vocational Teacher Textile Restorer
• Costume Historian Photography Model

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4.21 Identify the personality traits needed to
work in the area of clothing and textiles.

• Reliable
• Punctual
• Get along with people
• Good communication skills
• Willing to learn
• Flexible