Fiber 8/16

1
Fiber 8/16

• raw materials, either natural or synthetic that
  produce yarns and fabrics
• No perfect fiber that will adequately serve every
  general design purpose exists.
• Each fiber has its own advantages and
  disadvantages
• Basic building block of fabric

2
Yarn 8/17

• Fibers that are twisted or assembled together to
  form a continuous strand that can be made into a
  textile fabric.
• are made by spinning various lengths of fibers
  into strands
• High twist produces strength and durability but
  takes away some luster
• Little twist maintains a high luster but looses
  much stability

3
FABRIC 8/18

• Result of the weaving, knitting, twisting,
  felting, or lacing of fibers and yarns
• Even when the same weave or knit construction is
  used, the end product will be distinctive if the
  fiber or yarn type is varied

4
Yarns into Textile Fabrics 8/19

• Can be accomplished by an individual with a pair
  of knitting needles, a crochet hook, or a hand
  loom
• Use of powerful machines that combine yarns by
  weaving, knitting, or stitch bonding

5
Warp 8/22

• Warp- in weaving, the yarns placed on the loom
  first. They run lengthwise on the fabric.
• Weft or filling yarns are woven over and under
  the warp yarns.

6
WEFT 8/23

• Weft- The crosswise filling yarns that are
  interwoven with the lengthwise warp yarns to make
  a fabric.

7
Warp and Weft
8
Selvage 8/24

• Selvage- the woven edge of fabric, running
  parallel to the warp. The selvage keeps the
  textile from fraying. It is often used to
  identify the manufacturer or provide a color
  check.

Selvage
9
PLAIN WEAVE 8/26

• Plain Weave- The most used basic weave. Each
  filling yarn alternates crossing over and under
  each warp yarn. Like a window screen or a tennis
  racket.

10
TWILL WEAVE 8/29

• Twill Weave- One of three basic weaves.
  Recognized by the diagonal twill line or rib
  visible in the finished fabric.
• Denim is an example of a twill weave

11
Basket Weave 8/30

• Similar to Plain Weave, but 2 weft threads are
  interlaced with two warp threads.

12
SATIN WEAVE 8/31

• The distance the yarn covers is called a float.
  Because of these long floats the satin weave is
  flat, smooth, and lustrous.
• Usually made of silk or man-made fibers that give
  a lustrous, shiny appearance.
• Because of the floats, the fabric often snags

13
Un-Cut Pile Weave 9/1

• Produced by additional threads in the weft and
  warp that form loops or tufts of yarn that stand
  out form the surface of the fabric.

Terry cloth
14
Terry cloth 9/2

• A slack-tension, warp-yarn pile fabric with loops
  on one of both sides of the fabric. Two sets of
  warps and one set of filling yarns are used. It
  may have a jacquard pattern.

15
9/6 Microban

• antimicrobial protection (microbes can double in
  number every 20 minutes)
• built-in to products during the manufacturing
  process to provide continuous antimicrobial
  protection
• fights the growth of odor causing bacteria, mold
  and mildew to keep fabrics cleaner and fresher
  for the useful life of the fabric

16
9/12 VELCRO

• brand name of fabric hook-and-loop fasteners
  which have been used for 50 years
• consists of two layers a "hook" side, which is a
  piece of fabric covered with tiny hooks, and a
  "loop" side, which is covered with even smaller
  and "hairier" loops.

X 20 magnification
17
Cut-Pile Weave 9/13

• 3 dimensional structure made by weaving an extra
  set of warp or filling yarns with the ground
  yarns so that cut yarn loops create a pile

Velvet
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9/14 Natural Fibers

• Found in nature and require little or no
  processing to be used.
• Made from plant and animal sources

• Cellulosic - plant
• Protein- animal
• mineral

19
9-15 cellulosic

• Plant fibers include
• stems, leaves, and seed hairs found in plant
• Cotton
• Flax -Linen
• Jute Ramie

flax
Jute
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Protein 9-16

• Wool
• silk

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Protein Fibers 9/16

• Are of animal origin
• Wool and specialty wools are the hair and fur of
  animals
• Silk is the secretion of the silk caterpillar
• Are luxury fibers today

22
Protein Fibers 9/16

• Wool

• Silk

• Fiber formed from extruded filaments
• According to legend discovered about 2540 B.C.
• Produced from the larvae of silkworms
• Known as sericulture-was kept secret for
  manyyears

• Animal hair fibers sheeps wool
• Alpaca, camel, cashmere goat, llama, vicuna,
  guanaco, and the angora goat (mohair), quivit
  (hair from musk ox), angora rabbit hair
• Used since 4th century BC
• Used for clothing and some household articles in
  early Egypt, Greece, Asia, an Middle East.

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Wool

• ADVANTAGES

• Disadvantages

• Resilient
• Flame retardant
• Resists abrasiongood insulator
• Can be woven into a variety of textures
• Dyes well
• Cleans well, resists dirt\
• Absorbs up to 20 of its weight in moisture
  without feeling damp
• Doesnt wrinkle easily

• Yellows with age
• Shrinks
• Can be damaged by moths
• Expensive
• Requires professional cleaning
• Can cause allergies
• Weak, especially when wet

24
Mineral Fibers 9/16

• Asbestos
• Comes from deep in the earths crust
• Found in veins or cracks of solid rock
• Fibers are resistant to fire, heat, and acid
• Nonconductor of electricity was used in
  insulation
• Is now banned in US because it was found to cause
  cancer

25
Textiles 9/19

• We can learn about a population from what they
  wore just as we learn from the tools and other
  gear they used on a regular basis
• In many cultures the clothing worn was
  indicative of the social status achieved by
  various members of their society.
• People represent themselves through textiles
  clothing, for example, says something about
  someone's personality.

Ancient Egyptian clothing-Linen
26
Cotton 9/20

• Believed to have been grown in India during the
  4th century B.C.
• Used in early Rome
• Most plentiful of natural fibers

Cotton boll
seeds
27
Cotton Gin 9/21

• designed and constructed by Eli Whitney (Yale)
  in 1793
• machine that automated the separation of
  cottonseed from the short-staple cotton fiber (50
  lbs. daily)

28
Cotton 9/22

• Advantages

• Disadvantages

• Takes and holds color well
• Washes easily, easy care, comfortable
• Can be woven into sheer or heavy weight fabric
• Flexibility
• Not damaged by sunlight and most chemicals

• Not as durable as other fibers
• Wrinkles easily
• Can mildew and fade
• Absorbs moisture easily
• Cost varies according to quality of fiber, weave,
  ad finish

29
Quality of Cotton Fiber 9/26

• Purity(absence of foreign matter) and quality of
  ginning process
• Length of fibers (inherited genetic
  characteristic of the seed variety) weather
  ,nutrient deficiencies and excessive cleaning
  may affect fiber length
• USDA rates cotton

• Determined by 3 factors
• Color of ginned cotton (cotton fibers separated
  from cottonseed
• 1. Color ranges from white to yellow white
• 2. White, Light Spotted, Spotted Tinged, Yellow
  Stained

30
Organic Cotton 9/27

• grown using methods and materials that have a low
  impact on the environment
• Produced following state-fiber-certification
  standards where organic farming practices have
  been used for at least 3 years
• No synthetic commercial pesticides or fertilizers
  are used

• Twice as expensive as conventional cotton
• Additional costs related to lower fiber yield per
  acre, requirements for processing in facilities
  free of harmful chemicals and smaller quantities
  of fibers processed
• represents 0.76 percent of global cotton
  production. (2009)

31
ORGANIC COTTONSEED 9/28

• used for animal feed
• Organic cottonseed oil is used in a variety of
  food products, including cookies and chips.

32
EGYPTAIN COTTON 9/29

• comes ONLY from Egypt where the humid conditions
  and rich soil along the Nile River Valley create
  the perfect conditions to grow long cotton fibers
• falls under the classification of an ELS
  (extra-long staple) cotton
• Fiber staples can range from 1 1/2 inches to 2
  1/4 inches. (about twice the size of other cotton
  fibers which allows fibers to be spun into very
  fine yarns

• Highest quality is a fabric count of 1000 to 1200
  
• Softer and more durable than other cotton
• American version of Egyptian cotton is known as
  Pima cotton. (Pima Indian Reservation in Arizona
  in early 1900s to meet demand for quality long
  staple cotton

Egyptian cotton logo was trademarked in 2001
33
LINEN 9/30

• lightweight and breathable fabric
• More expensive than cotton
• since 1970, linen fabric production for apparel
  has increased from 5 to 70.
• Today, Western Europe, Ireland in particular,
  dominates flax and linen production in both
  quantity and quality.

• Made from flax fibers (found in the stem of the
  flax plant)
• oldest of all fabric
• evidence has been found in Swiss lake dwellings
  dating from 8000 B.C.
• ancient Greece-evidence of a linen industry is
  shown on 4,000 year-old tablets
• Bast fiber from the stem of the plant

34
LINEN 9/31

• Advantages

• Disadvantages

• Strong, especially when wet
• Comfortable, pliable, lustrous
• Not damaged by sunlight and chemicals
• Washable
• Takes and holds color
• Absorbent

• Wrinkles easily if not chemically treated
• Fades
• stiff
• Difficult to clean
• Absorbs moisture easily

35
Linen 10/2

• Flax fiber (found in stems)
• Swiss Lake dwelling in 8000 B.C.
• Linen industry - 4000 year old tablets
• Bast fiber from stem
• Lightweight more expensive than cotton

• 1970 production increased from 5 to 70
• Produced in Western Europe especially Ireland

36
RAMIE 10-4

• Also known as rhea, grasscloth, and China grass
• Been used for several thousand years in China
• A tall perennial plant that requires a hot, humid
  climate

• Fast growing and can be harvested every 60 days
• Has to be cut, not pulled
• Has been grown in the Everglades and Gulf Coast
  regions of US, but not currently
• Produced in China, Philippines and Brazil

37
Ramie 10-5

• bast fiber part of a plant stem
• one of oldest textile fibers used in mummy
  cloths in ancient Egypt during the period
  5000-3000B.C.
• Very durable
• long, fine fibers are naturally white and
  lustrous with an almost silky appearance.

• requires chemical processing to de-gum the fiber.
  
• Blends are more common than pure ramie - most
  typical is 55 ramie/45 cotton
• Blends - available in woven and sweater knit
  form. (Cotton and wool)

38
RAMIE 10/6

• Advantages

• Disadvantages

• High absorbency
• Greater strength when wet
• holds shape well ,
• Introduces a silky luster to the fabric
  appearance

• possesses little elasticity and is somewhat
  brittle and stiff which causes fiber breakage
  where creased or folded repeatedly
• Wrinkles easily
• Will not dye as well as cotton

39
JUTE 10/7

• Used in Biblical times
• 61 cellulose
• One of cheapest fibers
• Grown throughout Asia-chiefly India and
  Bangladesh

• Primary fibers are short and brittle
• One of weakest of the cellulosic fibers
• Creamy white to brown in color
• Used to produce coffee bags carpet backing, rope
  and twine

40
Manufactured/ Synthetic Fibers 10/10

• Originally designed to improve the quality,
  durability, and ease of care of fibers
• Designed to resist soil, mildew, and insects
• Made from substances such as wood pulp,
  petroleum, and coal
• Produced in labs through chemical processes

• Mimic natural fibers because they look, feel,
  and act like them
• Have many desirable characteristics generally
  strong, have ability to spring back to their
  original shape, dont wrinkle and are easy to
  care for

41
Synthetic Fiber Production 10/10

• Made from chemicals synthesized from petroleum
  by-products and other chemicals
• Chemists discovered that when a glass rod was
  pulled away from a chemical compound, it formed
  a fine filament that was strong, elastic, and
  flexible
• Are produced in similar way

• Thick syrupy liquid is forced through tiny holes
  in a spinneret
• Each tiny hole produces a fiber
• A spinneret can produce a few dozen fibers or as
  many as several thousands at a time

42
Manufactured and Synthetic Fibers

• Can be engineered to enhance performance like
• Fire resistance
• Soil resistance
• Bacterial resistance
• Heat resistance

• Examples
• Fibers for swimwear can be produced so that they
  resist fading from sunlight, salt water or
  swimming pool water
• Fibers for bath towels can be produced to provide
  continuous antimicrobial protection

43
Manufactured/Synthetic Fibers 10/11

• During the past 5 decades, production and
  consumption has steadily increased
• Today over 80 of fibers used
• Comprise 75 of U.S. textile market

• Used for Apparel
• Furnishings
• Medical applications
• Construction
• Transportation
• Aerospace applications
• Environmental applications

44
Manufactured regenerated fibers 10/12

• Produced from naturally occurring polymers (very
  large molecule made by connecting many small
  molecules)
• Polymers do not occur naturally as fibers and
  processing is needed to convert them into fiber
  form

• Starting material is cellulose and protein
• 3 regenerated cellulosic fibers rayon, lyocell
  and acetate

45
Rayon 10/13

• First commercially successful manufactured
  regenerated fiber
• Cellulose fiber regenerated from wood pulp
• Production began around the beginning of 20th
  Century
• 1910

• Referred to as Artificial Silk
• Name RAYON was not officially adopted until 1924
• Called VISCOSE IN Europe
• Used in apparel- from lingerie to suits,
  dresses, and sportswear
• Often blended with polyester

46
Acetate 10/14

• Originated in Europe
• Dreyfus brothers experimented with acetate in
  Switzerland
• Brothers moved to England during WWI acetate was
  used as a coating for the fabric wings of WWI
  airplanes
• After war-they perfected the process of making
  acetate fibers

• 1924 became the 2nd manufactured derivative
  cellulose fiber in U.S.
• Dry spun method-polymers are dissolved in a
  solvent of acetate to be formed into fibers
• First thermoplastic (heat-sensitive fiber)
• Fabric melts under a hot iron

47
Lyocell 10/17

• Developed by Courtlands, a European fiber
  manufacturer
• Introduced in early 1990s as a type of
  Rayon-1992
• Development was prompted by a concern about
  Rayons negative impact on the environment
• First produced under brand name Tencel

• Solvent spinning cellulosic starting material
  (wood pulp) is directly dissolved in an organic
  solvent- fiber is regenerated from that solvent
• Produced in both Europe and U.S.
• Properties are more like cotton than any other
  regenerated fiber

48
ACRYLIC 10/18

• Synthetic fiber
• Developed in the 1940s
• Both dry and wet spinning methods are used
• Have been called the warmth without weight
• Wet spun fibers can have cross-sections varying
  from round to bean shape
• Dry spun methods have a dog-bone shape
• Fibers are soft, warm, lightweight and resilient

• Fabricated into woven and knitted fabric
  construction
• Often blended with other fibers especially wool
• Good fiber for sweaters, suits, coats, and socks
• Superior to wool in their easy-care properties
  and are nonallergenic
• Declined from 15 to 5 of world fiber production
• Manufacturing has moved from U.S and Europe to
  China, Taiwan, and India

49
ACRYLIC 10-19

• Advantages

• Disadvantages

• Shrink when exposed to high temperatures
• Will pill
• Low moisture absorbency
• Generate static electricity

• Resist wrinkling during use and care
• Mildew, microorganisms, and moths will not harm
  acrylic
• Lower cost competitor for wool
• Resistant to sunlight superior to polyester and
  nylon

50
Nylon 10-20

• First synthetic fiber and first fiber developed
  in U.S.
• Inventor was Wallace Carothers chemist working
  for Dupont Company in 1928 (research program)
• Generic name NYLON was proposed in 1938 by
  Dupont
• First nylon product a nylon bristle toothbrush
  which went on sale on Feb. 24, 1938
• Womens stockings went on sale on May 15, 1940

• became unavailable to civilian consumers, because
  nylon was used extensively during WW II
  (1939-1945)
• During WW II Nylon replaced Asian silk in
  parachutes
• Also used to make tires, tents, ropes, ponchos
  and other military supplies
• Could be heat-set and permanent pleats became a
  reality

51
Grain in Fabric 11/28

• effects the way fabric will hang and drape
• refers to the way threads are arranged in a
  piece of fabric
• Lengthwise grain runs parallel to the
  selvage-strongest and most stable
• Crosswise grain runs perpendicular to the selvege
  of the fabric or the cut edge of the fabric as it
  comes off the bolt.
• Bias grain runs on a 45 degree angle to the
  selvage

52
Muslin 11/29

• A firm, medium-weight to heavyweight plain weave
  fabric made in a variety of qualities
• Can be unbleached or white
• Widths of 36, 45, 90 and 108

53
NYLON 12/2

• ADVANTAGES

• DISADVANTAGES

• Strong and Elastic
• Easy to launder
• Dries quickly
• Retains its shape
• Resilient and responsive to heat setting
• Resistant to damage from oils

• Extensive washing and drying in a dryer can lead
  to piling
• White Nylon should be washed separately to avoid
  it turning gray
• Has a tendency to Scavenge colors picking up
  surface color easily from other fabrics

54
POLYESTER 12/7

• English researchers experimented and manufactured
  polyester fibers called Terylene
• Introduced to U.S. in 1951 under name of Dacron
• Dupont bought the English patent and started
  manufactured polyester in March 1953

• Often referred to as the workhorse fiber of the
  industry
• most widely used synthetic fiber in U.S.
• Used alone or blended with other fibers
• Used for apparel and furnishings
• First use of polyester filament fibers was in
  knit shirts for men and boluses for women

55
POLYESTER 12/8

• Advantages

• Disadvantages

• Good strength
• Wrinkle resistant
• Mildew resistant
• Retains heat-set pleats and crease
• Resistant to stretching and shrinking
• Easily washed quick drying
• Polyester is extensively recycled-products made
  from recycled polyester include apparel and
  carpeting

• Lack absorption
• Consumers like recycled polyester, but the cost
  is usually higher

56
Jacquard Weave 12/12

• Requires an intricate series of hole-punched
  cards that tell the machine which threads to
  raise and which threads to drop.
• produce patterned fabrics.
• costly because it involves more time and skill in
  making the Jacquard cards to produce new pattern
• Damask , brocades tapestries

57
Filament 12/13

• Refers to fibers that are extremely long
• Made from long, continuous strands of fiber
• Made from manufactured fibers
• Only natural filament is silk

58
Staple Fiber

• Any natural or manufactured fiber produced in or
  cut to a short length measured in inches or
  centimeters

cut
crimped
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Filament and Staple
60
Lyocel

• Development was prompted in part by concerns
  about rayons negative impact on the environment
• Made from wood pulp and spun into a solvent bath
• Properties are more like those of cotton that any
  other regenerated fiber

• Developed by Courtlands, a European fiber
  manufacturer
• First produced under brand name Tencel