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Troubleshooting Small Engines

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Troubleshooting Small Engines Objectives The Student Will Be Able To: List, summarize, and employ the 5 troubleshooting rules; Interpret common symptoms of problems ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Troubleshooting Small Engines


1
Troubleshooting Small Engines
2
Objectives
  • The Student Will Be Able To
  • List, summarize, and employ the 5 troubleshooting
    rules
  • Interpret common symptoms of problems that occur
    in small engines and
  • Compile the information given in this laboratory
    section in order to diagnose and correct small
    engine problems throughout the remainder of the
    semester.

3
Troubleshooting
  • The skills involved in troubleshooting engine
    problems are very similar to the skills used by
    medical doctor in diagnosing health problems. As
    a troubleshooting "doctor", students must know
    the causes of certain symptoms that your
    mechanical patient might have. Luckily
    mechanical medical school or a residency is not
    required before attempting to work on a patient.
    All that is needed are the 5 simple rules to
    troubleshooting small engines.

4
  • The five troubleshooting rules should be followed
    in sequence in order that the maximum amount of
    time and money be saved. These five rules are
    also very general this allows them to work for
    just about all makes and models of small engines.

5
Remember these 5 Rules for troubleshooting engine
problems
Please Excuse My Dear Aunt Sally
  • Spark
  • Compression
  • Accessories
  • Carburetion
  • Timing

6
Rule 1 Spark
  • Spark refers to the high voltage spark that is
    created by the ignition system. Without spark
    the engine is completely unable to function.
    Checking the ignition for "Spark" is the first
    rule because of its simplicity.
  • To check to see if the ignition system is
    functioning properly a spark tester is used. As
    mentioned is Laboratory II there are numerous
    types and ways to test for "Spark", and they are
    all effective. If the ignition system is
    creating an adequate "Spark", but still does not
    start, continue on to Rule 2. If the ignition
    system fails to create a "Spark", check this list
    of items for possible solutions.
  • http//www.youtube.com/watch?vqAVz6ICOkKU

7
Possible Spark Solutions
  • Courtesy of Briggs Stratton Corp.
  • 1. Check the spark plug, it may be faulty.
  • 2. Check the armature air gap. (Figure 6.0)
  • 3. Check to see if the flywheel key is sheared.
    (Figure, 6.1 and 6.2)
  • 4. Check for an incorrect breaker point gap.
  • 5. Check for dirty or burned breaker points.
  • 6. Check for a worn or stuck breaker plunger.
  • 7. Check for a shorted ground wire or stop
    switch.
  • 8. Check for condenser failure.
  • 9. Check for armature failure.
  • 10. Check for worn bearings and/or shaft on the
    flywheel side.


Fig. 6.1, Flywheel Keys
Fig. 6.2, Sheared Flywheel Key
Fig. 6.0, Armature Flywheel
8
Magnetron Ignition Systems
  • Starting in 1982, all Briggs Stratton engines
    were equipped with Magnetron ignition armatures,
    leaving Breaker Points and Condensers by the
    wayside. The Magnetron ignitions are much more
    reliable, but if you still fail to get a Spark
    you might check
  • 1. To see if the Stop Switch is grounded.
  • 2. The interlocking system, if equipped.
  • 3. Armature air gap too wide.
  • 4. Ignition armature ground wire eyelet
    disconnected.
  • 5. Broken external wires at the ignition
    armature.
  • 6. Blown ignition armature from 12 volt battery
    current.

9
Rule 2 Compression
  • A great deal of compression is needed in the
    cylinder in order that the air-fuel mixture
    ignites properly. An engine with little
    compression may drastically lose power or may
    fail to start at all. Compression is the second
    rule because it is almost as quick and simple as
    checking for Spark.
  • Check for Compression in one of two ways. The
    first method involves removing the spark plug and
    inserting a compression gauge in its place, in
    order to measure how many psi the piston exerts
    on the cylinder head. With the gauge threaded
    into the cylinder head the starter rope should be
    pulled two to three times. If the engine has a
    starter, the engine should be turned over for
    about two to three seconds. Either of these
    should give a fairly accurate reading on the
    gauge. The second method does not require you to
    remove the spark plug. All that a person needs
    to do to determine compression using the second
    method is to spin the flywheel clockwise. If the
    flywheel rebounds sharply the engine is
    considered to have adequate compression for
    ignition.
  • If the engine has adequate compression, but
    still fails to start, move on to Rule 3. If the
    engine does not have adequate compression the
    following list of check points should be
    considered.

10
If the engine does not have adequate compression
the following list of check points should be
considered.
  • Check For
  • 1. A loose spark plug
  • 2. Loose cylinder head bolts
  • 3. A blown head gasket
  • 4. Burnt valves and/or seats
  • 5. Insufficient tappet clearance
  • 6. A warped cylinder head
  • 7. Warped valve stems
  • 8. Worn or scared cylinder walls
  • 9. Worn or broken piston rings
  • 10. Broken connecting rod

11
Rule 3 Accessories
  • Accessories are all of those mechanisms that
    control, or are controlled by the engine. Many
    times faulty, broken, or jammed accessories such
    as belts, pulleys, electrical equipment, blades,
    controls, etc.. may be the cause of the engines
    failure to start. A thorough check of all
    accessory equipment can solve many starting
    problems.
  • If the engine has no accessory problems, but
    still fails to start, continue on to Rule 4. If
    a problem is found, it should be corrected and
    periodically checked for reoccurrences.

12
Rule 4 Carburetion
  • The carburetor is a complex part of the small
    engine that might have several reasons for
    causing starting difficulty.
  • Before disassembling the carburetor, check for
    the obvious! Check the fuel line, the fuel
    filter, the fuel tank, and the fuel itself for
    water or contaminants. Any of these may restrict
    ignition. If the fuel contains water, drain all
    liquid from the tank and disassemble the
    carburetors fuel pump or bowl and clean now
    reassemble the carburetor and fill the tank with
    fresh fuel. Many times a quick check of these
    items will solve the problem and save you work.
  • Basic carburetor adjustments are given below.
    The needle valve seats are made of soft brass and
    can be easily damaged. When turning the needle
    valve in, take care not to use force because you
    may damage the needle valve and the seat, (See
    Figure, 6.3). Loosening the packing nut will
    allow the screw to turn with greater ease. If
    fuel seeps from around the adjustment screw,
    tighten the packing nut.

13
  • BASIC CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT
  • FINAL ADJUSTMENT
  • Place the throttle control in the fast
    position. Turn the needle valve clockwise until
    the engine just starts to slow. Now open the
    needle valve 3/8 of a turn counterclockwise.
    Then rotate the throttle arm counterclockwise and
    hold it against the throttle stop while adjusting
    the idle RPM by turning the idle speed adjusting
    screw to obtain 1750 RPM. Release the throttle
    and the engine should accelerate smoothly. If it
    doesnt, the carburetor should be re-adjusted,
    usually to a slightly richer mixture by turning
    the needle valve counterclockwise 1/8 turn more.
    (See Figure, 6.4).
  • Fig. 6.4
  • The most common carburetor problems related to
    starting can be corrected by disassembling,
    cleaning, adjustment, and replacing old
    gaskets/diaphragms in the carburetor. This is a
    shotgun approach, cure-all for correcting
    carburetor problems. Other carburetor problems
    may be caused by
  • 1. Over choking.
  • 2. Excessively rich fuel mixture.
  • 3. Valve malfunction.
  • 4. Faulty floats or springs.
  • 5. Leaking gaskets.
  • 6. Broken or clogged inlet tubes.
  • 7. Broken needle valve assembly.
  • 8. Fuel tank on/off valve, turned off.
  • If you have completed work on the carburetor and
    the engine still fails to start, move to Rule 5!
  • Gently turn the needle valve until it just
    closes. The valve may be damaged if it is closed
    tightly. Next, open the needle valve 1-1/2 turns
    counter-clockwise. The initial adjustment will
    permit the engine to be started. Now warm-up the
    engine (approx. 5 minutes) in preparation for
    final adjustment.

14
Rule 5 Timing
  • Checking and resetting the timing is the most
    time consuming troubleshooting step because it
    involves draining the engine oil and removing the
    crankcase cover, therefore, it is done last.
  • If the timing is off, the engine will be out of
    synchronization, and will not start. The timing
    can be corrected by draining the oil, removing
    the crankcase cover, and realigning the timing
    dots that are marked on the crankshaft gear and
    the cam gear. (See Figure, 6.5 and 6.6).
    Finally, reassemble the engine and refill the
    crankcase with oil.



Fig. 6.5, Aligning Timing Marks
Fig. 6.6, Aligning Timing Marks
15
  • Note One of these Five Rules should correct
    the engines starting problem. Many times the
    engine will start, but problems persist. Such
    problems may cause poor or erratic engine
    performance. The following are some small
    engine trouble symptoms and their probable
    causes.

16
  • Vibration
  • Rotating parts out of balance.
  • Bent crankshaft.
  • Loose mounting bolts.
  • Carburetor not properly adjusted.
  • Mounting deck cracked.
  • Runs Rough/Wont Accelerate Properly
  • Incorrect spark plug gap.
  • Engine not warm.
  • Low fuel level.
  • Idle set too low.
  • Fuel mixture too lean.

17
  • Backfires While Throttling Up or Down
  • Water in fuel.
  • Low fuel level.
  • Fuel mixture too lean/rich.
  • Choke malfunction.
  • Dirty carburetor.
  • Kill switch contacting.
  • Leaking/worn valves.
  • Dies at High Idle
  • Low fuel level.
  • Low oil level.
  • Loose spark plug lead.
  • Carburetor out of adjustment.

18
  • Will Not Reach High Idle RPM
  • Choke not disengaged completely.
  • Throttle control loose or installed improperly.
  • Clogged fuel filter.
  • Fuel line too small.
  • Low fuel level.
  • Fuel tank too far from engine.
  • Fuel pump malfunction.
  • Gravity feed tank below carburetor.
  • Trash in carburetor.
  • Carburetor out of adjustment.
  • Incorrect spark plug gap.
  • Starts Dies Quickly
  • Worn, torn, and/or faulty carburetor diaphragm.
  • Low fuel level.
  • Obstruction in fuel line or carburetor.
  • Carburetor needs to be disassembled and cleaned.
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