Efficiency Improvements that Prevent Pollution and Save Money

1
Responsible Sourcing Initiative
Efficiency Improvements that Prevent Pollution
and Save Money
Linda E. Greer, Ph.D.
2
About us

• One of the largest and most effective
  environmental organizations in the United States
• Founded in U.S. in 1970, launched in China since
  1996
• Offices in New York, Washington, Chicago, Los
  Angeles, San Francisco and Beijing
• Staff of 400, highly trained environmental
  professionals in science, engineering, and policy
• GOAL Protect human health and environment from
  dangers of pollution

3
About RSI
Use the social responsibility of multinational
apparel retailers and brands and purchasing
influence as leverage to reduce the impact of
factories in their supply chain on environment in
China Accomplish this goal using carefully
researched cost saving efficiency improvements
that reduce environmental impact while saving
money. Start with low hanging fruit cheap,
easy, quick pay-back Result Dramatically
improve environmental performance of factories in
China with win-win approach good for business and
the environment
http//www.eco-transport.com/uploads/image/benefit
s-photo.jpg
4
Why Textiles?
5
Design of initiative homework phase

• Initial fact finding at more than a dozen fabric
  mills and dye houses
• In-depth assessments in four selected dye houses
  with international expert
• Identification of Ten Best Practices helpful to
  most mills
• Expert review and comment
• Real world trial at Red Bud dyeing mill in
  Jiangsu Province

6
Collaborators
7
Ten Best Practices

• Low hanging fruit improvement opportunities
  estimated to deliver
• 25 percent reduction in total water use
• 30 percent reduction in steam/coal use
• Money! Pay for themselves in less than 8 months

8
Ten Best Practices

• Leak detection and prevention
• Insulation of equipment, pipes, valves, flanges
• Maintain steam traps
• Recover heat from stacks (hot air)
• Recover heat from hot rinse water
• Screen coal , optimize boiler
• Optimize compressed air system
• Reuse condensate
• Reuse cooling water
• Reuse process water

9
Current Status

• Assessing 15-20 mills in supply chain of brands
  actively cooperating in the program
• Quick 1 to 1.5 day assessments by Reset Carbon
• All types of mills woven, knit, yarn, denim
• Range in age of mills
• Range in size of mills
• Goal 12 or more showcase mills documented
  case studies

10
NRDC 10 Best Practices NRDC 10 Best Practices NRDC 10 Best Practices NRDC 10 Best Practices NRDC 10 Best Practices NRDC 10 Best Practices NRDC 10 Best Practices NRDC 10 Best Practices
Plant/Type Production (tons/yr) Age of Plant Investment Costs (RMB) Savings (RMB) Payback (months) Energy Reduction (steam) Elect. Reduction (kWh) Water Reduction (tons)
Fiber (A) 6,684 2,003,000 3,190,286 8 24.2 2.7 -
Fiber (B) 4,523 551,350 644,375 11 2.3 5.3 1
Fiber (C) 1,923 531,100 565,728 12 22.4 15.4 11
Fiber (D) 890 2010 757,000 1,409,810 7 60.2 1.3 -
Woven (E) 877 2010 1,100,399 771,595 18 43.4 6.9 -
Fiber(F) 6,790 2006 445,100 752,158 7 5.8 0.8 10.5
Denim (G) 28,605 2011 1,468,000 1,531,000 12 6.1 21.3 3
Knit (H) 33,229 1,512,000 2,339,400 8 0.8 1.3 -
Denim (I) 9,473 2005 935,000 1,622,700 7 12.0 10.1 32
Denim (J) 15,201 2010 849,000 2,408,000 5 9.4 3.7 2
Steam made at co-generation facility Steam made at co-generation facility Steam made at co-generation facility Steam made at co-generation facility Steam made at co-generation facility Steam made at co-generation facility Steam made at co-generation facility Steam made at co-generation facility
11
Whats next

• Complete showcase mills assessment and
  implementation
• Document real-world results
• Host technical workshops, promote awareness

12
Yet progress is very slow

• For mills
• they are busy with other things,
• they do not track or care much about resource
  use,
• buyers are not inquiring or insisting.
• For retailers and brands
• Many dont know where their suppliers get their
  fabric, do not develop relationships with dyeing
  mills
• Supplier selection policies do not assess or
  reward environmental performance or continuous
  improvement

13

• Are the Ten Best Practices are an elegant
  solution to a problem they dont think they
  have??

14
Multinationals certainly have a problem
15
Urgent Need for Supply Chain Policies

• Dyeing and finishing mills should be required to
• meet basic environmental standards to do business
  
• Meter water and energy usage data
• They should be rewarded with preferred status for
  going beyond this minimum
• They should submit data on resource use to verify
  performance, MNCs should spot-check
• Buyers should develop direct business
  relationship with fabric mills and include
  environmental performance in score card for
  choosing vendors!

16
Thank you ! www.nrdc.org/cleanbydesign
US Contact Linda Greer E-mail
lgreer_at_nrdc.org China Contact ???(Cindy
Lin) E-mail zlin_at_nrdc.org ?? 010-58794079-7916