Lucas Headlamp Pod Motor

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Lucas Headlamp Pod Motor

• Stripdown sequence and
• Maintenance Guide

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A pod motor. Some of them (notably earlier
variants) were painted with a rubbery coating
that helps to repel water. Quite often, under
this coating the motor will be in mint
condition. Later units had a basic black paint
coating that doesnt survive as well. This unit
has had the switch box cover screws removed the
remaining screw serves to retain the switch box
to the gear housing. The knob at the bottom of
the motor allows the armature to be turned
manually to raise the pods in the event of a
power or component fault.
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Contact
Diode
Motor Terminals
Common
Contact
Diode
With the switch box cover removed, the switch
assembly, diodes and motor connectors are
accessible. Removal of the remaining screw.
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Plunger
Plunger
Rivetted contact
allows the switch box to be removed. This is
the view of the other side, showing the rivetted
contacts and the nylon plungers that lift the
terminal strip.
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Main Gear
Motor Worm
Ramp
With the switch box removed, the gear assembly is
revealed. The motor worm is steel, driving the
nylon pinion of the main gear. The ramp on the
main gear lifts the plungers of the switch box to
stop the gear in either of two positions.
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The main gear should slide out of the housing
one of the shaft bearings can be made out in the
photo above. The nylon gear lasts quite well
despite being turned by a steel worm chewed or
broken teeth indicate damage caused by, e.g.
siezed linkages or pivots, or impact. Note the
dished washer on the shaft (right).
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Removal of the two through-bolts allows the motor
casing to be separated from the gear
housing. Note the nylon thrust bearing on the end
of the worm.
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lt Remove the three screws that secure the motor
brush assembly...
and lift away the brush assembly. In this
photo, the top armature bearing can be seen, with
its retaining spring. The brushes are in good
condition and fit for re-use.
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Pull the manual control knob off the end of the
armature and carefully remove the armature from
the motor casing. You have to fight the stator
magnets, of course!
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Laminated Core
Commutator
Bottom Bearing
Top Bearing
Washer stack
Windings
This armature is in pretty good shape. The
brushes tend to wear the area of the commutator
that is swept by them. Retrieve any washer
stack that may be present washers may stay on
the armature or get stuck to the motor casing
lower bearing.
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The commutator should be polished with a fine
abrasive (Im using 1200 grit WetnDry here) and
the gaps between the segments cleaned out with a
suitable implement (craft knife blade etc.).
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The armature endfloat should be set using this
screw (later versions have a screw and locknut
arrangement).
On reassembly, line up the engraved line on the
motor casing with the arrowhead on the gear
housing.
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Dont forget to replace the manual control knob!
On later variants the knob design was changed to
incorporate a one-way clutch, so that only
anti-clockwise movement of the armature is
possible.