Munich Mannequins

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Munich Mannequins

• Perfection is terrible, it cannot have children.
• Cold as snow breath, it tamps the womb
• Unloosing their moons, month after month, to no
  purpose.
• The blood flood is the flood of love.
• The absolute sacrifice.
• It means no more idols but me.
• In their sulfur loveliness, these mannequins lean
  tonight
• In Munich, morgue between Paris and Rome.
• O the domesticity of these windows,
• The baby lace, the green-leaved confectionary.
• Voicelessness. The snow has no voice.

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The Beauty MythThe Body and the Media
Naomi Wolf http//www.youtube.com/watch?vUJh8GEU2
qik 430
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• Why do women wear make-up?
• Its what makes you a woman. Paloma Picasso,
  fashion designer
• Lipstick is something that makes you feel good
  about yourself. Naomi Campbell, model
• Its a source of female power. Barbara Daly,
  make-up artist
• Maybe shes born with it. Maybe its
  Maybelline. Maybelline slogan
• Because Im worth it. LOreal slogan
• Wearing make-up is an apology for our actual
  faces. Cynthia Heimel

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What women say makes a woman beautiful

• 87 self-confidence
• 82 positive outlook on life
• 79 upbeat personality
• 65 healthy / shiny hair
• 57 great figure

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• We are in a backlash against feminism that uses
  the image of female beauty as a weapon against
  womens advancement. Women are persuaded to
  embody beauty and men are convinced to possess
  women who embody it. None of this is true.
• Naomi Wolf, The Beauty Myth

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Alteration of Appearance

• Practiced for 1000s of years
• capture the appearance of youth in perfect
  health
• Egyptians, Greeks and Romans, French
• Ceremonies and religious rites
• Minerals, flowers, roots, rinds, bark
• Face whitening lead oxide used 14th - 19th
  cents. Physical problems and death.
• Other poisons found in eye shadow, lipstick, eye
  shadow (deadly nightshade)

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Is Your Lipstick Safe?

• Lipstick, nail polish, deodorant, toothpaste,
  body lotion, soap seemingly harmless products
  can contain numerous unregulated chemicals
• Some chemicals linked to breast cancer,
  reproductive disorders, and birth defects
• Cosmetic companies not required to label many of
  their products ingredients. FDA does not
  mandate pre-market testing of many ingredients
• Feb. 12 over 400 lipstick shades, including
  those from popular brands like LOréal, Nars, and
  Cover Girl, contain trace amount of lead,
  according to FDA
• FDA says the levels do not pose a risk.

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20th Century

• Antiperspirants and deodorants 1890s
• Commercial cosmetics industry
• 4-parts to attractiveness exercise, diet,
  cosmetics, hair products. Info onslaught
  starting in 1910s
• Change in perception of beauty aids long
  association with painted ladies or women of
  suspect morals
• most influential event cinema early actresses
  on screen with make-up of Helen Rubinstein
  (developer of mascara and colored powder)
• Max Factor - pancake make-up
• 1920s emergence of chain, or dime, stores mass
  appeal of cosmetics. 27 permanent hair waving.
  29 Hollywood and tanned skin, reversing
  emphasis on whiteness

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The Ideal Body

• Body types go in and out of fashion
• 1920s flappers (boyish, thin, bound breasts)
• 1950s Marilyn Monroe was sex goddess. By our
  standards today, she was fat
• 1960s Twiggy era beginning of the anorexic
  look. Twiggy was 58 and 97 lbs.
• 1980s Elle McPherson typified the strong and
  lean look

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Now you see them, now you dont

• Models figures keep shrinking
• Italy banned from its runways any body mass index
  (BMI) under 18.5
• Spain imposed similar restrictions
• Brazil considering a ban

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Louise Brooks 1920s showgirl that epitomized the
lean flapper look. BMI of 20.1
Betty Grable Her shapely legs were showcased
during WWII, when she was an iconic pin-up girl
Twiggy This body won fame in 1960s London, but
stick-thin BMI of 14.7 would keep her off many
runways today
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Cindy Crawford A glamazon in the 1990s. Her
curvaceous figure supported a BMI of 19.2
Vlada Roslyakova Featherweight East Euro postwaif
with a skeletal silhouette
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• Beauty reproductive strategy
• Attract mates, sustain genes and species
• Peacock, flowers, antlers, lions mane
• beauty we strive for today goes far beyond the
  basic need for survival of species

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• Females curvaceous derriere slim waist and
  perky, firm, large breasts
• Visible signs of health smooth skin, good teeth,
  healthy hair, symmetry, youth, curves (body fat!)
• Males broad shoulders, slim and toned waist,
  and muscular legs

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• A new study (2010) performed in Ireland has found
  that young women no longer desire to have an
  hourglass figure, but instead would like to have
  a tubular and more androgynous body shape. 
• The study compared results to American women in
  1954 and found that women now wished to be
  lighter and no longer wished to have an hourglass
  shape.
• The female students wanted no difference between
  waist and hips, having the ideal female shape be
  a tube. 
• The male students wanted the ideal female shape
  to have more weight - to be an hourglass.
• (3 different body types on next slide)

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Venus of Willendorf
24,000 B.C., Austria Early ideal voluptuous,
healthy, fertile Someone important not typical
women
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Queen Nefertiti
Message similar to today ideal of beauty
required time and effort always appear
flawlessly painted and primped
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Hair Removal

• Women in ancient Egypt used beeswax and lime to
  remove leg hair
• Ancient Romans and Greeks used pumice to remove
  body hair
• Some cultures view it as uncivilized since body
  hair appears on animal bodies. The idea of a
  hairless body for American women developed in
  1915, said Victoria Sherrow in Encyclopedia of
  Hair a Cultural History
• 1915 Gillettes Milady, the first razor designed
  and marketed specifically for women
• the safe way to acquire a smooth underarm
• A promise that women can gain access to beauty
  if they engage in these practices such as shaving
  their armpits, Jennifer Scanlon, professor of
  Womens Studies, Bowdoin College
• MoNique appeared at Golden Globes with unshaven
  legs
• Ren, contestant on Americas Next Top Model,
  arrived with hairy armpits

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Paul Rubens The Three Graces
Beauty traits of 1600s curves, dimples, rolls,
cellulite Rubenesque voluptuous beauty
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Lucas Cranach the Elder Cupid Complaining to
Venus
1500s Ideal body S-shaped, small features, large
feet, protruding stomach (fertility)
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Paul Gauguin Two Tahitian Women
Glorifying non-European beauty Broadening
definition of beauty
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Venus de Milo
Classical Greek sculpture Geometric formula based
on proportions of humans and other natural
creatures
Killing Us Softly 4 http//www.youtube.com/watch?v
PTlmho_RovYfeaturerelated 5 mins
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Foot Binding vs. High Heels
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http//www.youtube.com/watch?vH_FYM2Y4AR4
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Extremes of Beauty

• High Heels
• Since 1600s, when both men and women wore them
• Associated with sexiness
• Tense legs, thrust out boobs and butt for
  balance, emphasize sway of hips
• Painful back pain, shortened leg muscles, foot
  discomfort
• Foot masterpiece of engineering and work of
  art da Vinci. 26 bones 20 muscles 7,000
  nerve endings 250,000 sweat glands

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• High heels throws posture forward, like you are
  standing on your tippy toes, so in order to stand
  up straight you have to overextend the lower
  back," said an Australian doctor. Shortening of
  calf muscles also creates a jamming effect in the
  lower back.
• If any woman has had more than a decade of
  wearing constant high heels, she will have
  arthritic changes.
• Addiction to heels also gives rise to neck
  problems. When you arch the lower back you
  usually stoop and roll the shoulders and crane
  the neck. It's like if the foundations of a
  house get shifted, the roof and the walls and
  everything else compensates.

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The time for cruel shoes

• How often women sacrifice comfort for fashion in
  wearing shoes
• 51 never my feet always come first
• 29 only for special occasions
• 15 sometimes
• 3 every day fashion is most important
• 2 frequently

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Extremes of Beauty

• Corset
• Since 14th century, device to shape torso
  fasionable S-shaped figure
• Whalebone, iron, steel to narrow the waist (18
  inches or less goal) enhance breasts and hips
• - Damage the body
• If started wearing in infancy, muscles that
  normally hold up the body did not develop
• Caused fainting spells and breathing problems
• Today sexual connotations and lingerie

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Model Has Natural 20-inch WaistFebruary 2012

• Romanian model Ioana Spangenberg says she has
  natural 20-inch waist.
• Her thin middle in contrast to her 32-inch hips
  produced the nickname the human hourglass
• The 30-year-old weighs 84 pounds
• Spangenberg insists she cannot gain weight around
  her midsection. Every day I eat three big meals
  and snack on chocolate and potato chips.
• With trickery like Photoshop and wearing three
  pairs of Spanx, it's hard for some to believe
  Spangenberg isn't wearing a corset under her
  clothing.

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https//www.youtube.com/watch?vL3D0jMIOK_c 230
Thigh Gap is the new obsession
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A Not So Glamorous Model Life

• https//www.youtube.com/watch?vrHh2cpLGzIA 9
  mins

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http//www.youtube.com/watch?vBL8ARB5FmsANR1fe
aturefvwp
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Advertising

• Powerful, educational force 150 billion /
  year
• Media diet
• 30 hours TV / week 100 hours reading magazines
  / year 1,500 ads / day
• Effects of emphasis on excessive thinness
• Increases eating disorder symptoms
• Body dissatisfaction, stress, depression
• Ideal image is unattainable by most women
• Ave. women 54 and 142 lbs.
• Top models 59 and 110 118 lbs.
• Only 5 of women are this height and weight!

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Weight

• Economic conditions trigger perception
• When food and money are scarce, larger (well-fed)
  body types were the ideal
• Similarly, times of plenty correlated with
  thinner body ideals showing status by having
  time and money on fitness
• 1,000 year-old sculptures in India show
  voluptuous women with full breasts, bellies, and
  hips
• Among the Bangwa and other West African tribes,
  fatness is an essential part of beauty
• Before marriage, Bangwa women are sent to a
  fattening house to eat enriched foods
• Fiji well-fed, robust bodies signs of health
  and prosperity. Thin bodies are sick bodies
• Introduction of American TV in 95 outbreak of
  dieting, self-esteem problems, and eating
  disorders among teen girls

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Diet Industry

• Tripled its income in past 10 yrs.
• 50 billion in 2010

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The Skinny on Plastic Surgery

• Liposuction, rhinoplasty, breast augmentation /
  reduction, eyelids, face
• 330,000 cosmetic surgeries on people under 18 in
  2004, a 48 jump from 2003.
• Surgeons say Extreme Makeover and The Swan
  are influential.
• http//www.awfulplasticsurgery.com/

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Heidi Montag

• Her reinvention in 2010
• 10 separate procedures in 10 hours
• Brow lifted, ears pinned back, cheeks and lips
  injected with fat, buttocks augmented
• Chin reduced waist, hip, and thigh liposuctions
• Touched up breast and nose surgery from 2007
• We all want to feel attractive. So who is
  anyone to judge me? I am already planning my
  next surgery.

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• Women get 91 of plastic surgeries
• Percentage of cosmetic surgeries
• 21 breast augmentation
• 19 liposuction
• 10 eyelids
• 9 nose reshaping
• 9 tummy tuck
• 8 breast reduction
• 7 breast lift
• 6 face lift
• 2 forehead lift
• 1 ears

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• Botox

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Ads Using Everyday Woman

• Real women instead of waifish supermodels to
  pitch products.
• Weve gotten tired of airbrushed pictures none
  of us can relate to, said a female ad exec.
• 1997 The Body Shop had Love Your Body
  campaign, which showed a Rubenesque plastic doll
  named Ruby.
• Tagline There are 3 billion women who do not
  look like supermodels and only 8 who do

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Ads Using Everyday Woman

• 2005 Nike and clothes / equipment
• Glorifying body parts rarely seen in ads
• My butt is big, I have thunder thighs, my
  shoulders are not dainty or proportional to my
  hips.

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The woman on page 194 Glamour
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Seven Total Knockouts Who says supermodels have
to be superthin? Theres a new definition of
gorgeous. Glamour, November 2009
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Ads Using Everyday Woman

• Dove ads Campaign for Real Beauty
• Dove believes real beauty comes in many shapes,
  sizes, colors and ages. Together, lets think,
  talk, debate and learn how to make beauty real
  again.
• 2004 showed older, wrinkled women women with
  pale skin and freckles and women with small
  breasts
• 2005 six women, none of them models, sizes 4 to
  12, smiling in their underwear
• Dove trying to sell skin-care products, some of
  it to banish cellulite

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Dove Pro-age Campaign 035 http//www.youtube.com
/watch?vvilUhBhNnQcfeaturerelated Dove Real
Beauty Sketches http//www.youtube.com/watch?vXpa
OjMXyJGknoredirect1 3 mins
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http//www.youtube.com/watch?vhibyAJOSW8U
100 https//www.youtube.com/watch?v-02ivpIPJKo
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