Chapter Two: Elementary Weaves (Fundamental Weaves)

1
Chapter TwoElementary Weaves (Fundamental
Weaves)

• 2.1 General Characteristics.
• 2.2 Plain Weave
• 2.3 Twill Weaves
• 2.4 Sateen/Satin Weaves

2
2.1 General Characteristics.

• 1. The shift of the weaves is constant.
• 2. The fundamental weaves are such weaves in
  which every warp and every weft thread within the
  repeat overlaps or is overlapped only by one
  thread of the opposite system. It means that, in
  fundamental weaves any weft or warp thread must
  have only one warp or weft overlapping within the
  repeat.

3
2.2 Plain Weave

• 1)concept This is the simplest weave. In this
  weave the threads interlace in alternate order,
  i.e. the first warp thread overlaps the first
  weft thread (Fig. 2.1) and passes under the
  second weft thread, and the second warp thread
  passes under the first weft thread and overlaps
  the second one, and so on.

Fig. 2.1 Plan weave and section diagram
4
Plain weave

• 2)Parameters Repeat (R) 2,Shift (S) 1
• 3) Weaving plan straight draft or skip
  straight and tappet shedding is enough.
• 4) Properties The fabric made from plain weave
  is firmer and stronger.
• 5) Applications poplin, voile, lawn, flannel,
  panama, crepe etc.

5
Printed poplin
course plain
cotton calico
6
2.3 Twill Weaves

• 1) Concept
• The most characteristic of twill is that
  they have diagonal lines on the cloth.

7

• 2)Parameters
• R 3 So Sy 1
• The twill weaves are expressed in the form
  of a fraction. The numerator of the fraction is
  equal to the number of warp overlaps and the
  denominator is equal to the number of weft
  overlaps within the repeat. The sum of the
  numerator and denominator of this fraction is the
  repeat of the twill.

8

• Such as 3/1, 1/3, 2/1, 4/1.
• Some concept about the twill weaves
• warp-face twill,
• weft-face twill,
• right-hand twill,
• left-hand twill.

Weft-face right-hand twill R4 Sy1
Warp-face left-hand twill R4 Sy-1
9
3) Weave diagram drawn
Example Draw a twill weave of 2/1?

• ? Calculating the repeat R, drawing the outline,
  and giving the number.
• ? Drawing the first end according to the fraction
  given.
• ?Drawing the other ends depended on the shift.

a repeat R3, and draw the outline






b draw the first end c and the other ends
10

• 4) Weaving plan
• Straight draft
• 5) Properties
• Good aesthetic properties
• Used for ornamentation
• Softer than plain weaves

11
6) Applications

• denim, jean, flannel, gabardine, whipcord, glen
  check, drill.

12
Same samples
T/C Blended twill
13

T/C Blended Drill
14
Home work

• 1. Drawing the following weave diagrams, and
  indicates the warp face twill or weft face twill.
• 1/3?, 4/1? 2/1? , 3/1?
• 2. Listing 5 fabrics made from plain weave and 5
  fabrics made from twill weave.

15
2.4 Sateen/Satin Weaves

• 1)concept
• The characteristic of the sateen/satin weave
  is that they have a smoothness and lustrous
  fabric surface.
• Sateen weaves have a weft effect and satin weaves
  have a warp effect

16

• 2) parameters
• R 5 and R?6
• 1 ? S ?(R-1)
• R and S must be expressed by prime
  numbers

• The sateen weave is denoted by a fraction. But
  the meaning is different from that of twill. The
  numerator of this fraction is equal to the repeat
  of weave. The denominator is equal to the shift
  (Sy) of overlaps.

17
Examples
Figures A, B represent sateen 5/3 and 7/3.

• A ?Sateen 5/3 B ?
  sateen 7/3
• And they are also called 5 ends(5 shafts) sateen
  and 7 ends (7 shafts) sateen.

18
3) weave drawn

• ?Drawing the outline according to the repeat, and
  giving the number of the threads.
• ? Drawing the first end or pick. (Satin for first
  end, sateen for first pick).
• ?Drawing the other ends or picks according to the
  shift

Here is an example of 5/3 satin
19

• 4) Weaving plan
• Straight draft
• 5) Properties softness, smoothness, lustrous.
• 6) Applications satin-back gabardine, doeskin
  cloth, satin-back crepe, satin drill, light
  weight linings, slippers, bridal gowns.

20
Some samples
21
Home works

• Drawing the following weave diagram
• 5/3 sateen, 8/3 sateen, 5/3 satin, 11/3 sateen.