7.3 Interchanging double cloth

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7.3 Interchanging double cloth

• 1. Concept
• The two layers of fabric exchange with each
  other to form the character of the design. It is
  on these points of interchange that the two
  cloths are bound together. See Fig. 7.16.

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Various effects

• The two layers of fabric exchange with each other
  can form different effects. See Fig. 7.17 effects
  ?, ?, ?, ?.

? Solid dark color on the face and light
color on the back. ? Solid light color on the
face and dark color on the back. ?Mixed
color on the face and back. ?Mixed color on
the face and back.
Fig. 7.17
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2. The steps of development of interchanging
double cloth

• (1) Design the patterns
• (2) Select the base weaves which simple weaves
  are preferable due to the low number of shafts
  required.
• (3) Color arrangement the ratios are usually
  11,21,22.
• (4) Determine the size of the pattern, the repeat
  must be times of the base repeat.
• (5) Draw the weaves in each part of the pattern.

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Example 1 Construct an interchange double cloth

1. Design the patterns, see Fig (A)
2. Plain weaves are selected as the base weaves of
   both layers
3. Color arrangement X Y 1 1.
4. Arabic digital 1,2,3 etc. indicate X color
   threads while Roman numbers indicate Y color
   threads. See Fig. (B)

Fig (A)
face back
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• 4) Determine the size of the pattern. (2 repeats
  for this example)
• 5) Draw the weaves in each parts of the pattern.
  See Fig. (B)

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Example 2 Indicate the effects of the each part

• In Fig. 7.19
• Arabic 1,2,3,4indicate light color.
• Roman ?,?,?,?indicate dark color

Fig. 7.19
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• In Fig. 7.19
• Arabic 1,2,3,4indicate light color.
• Roman ?,?,?,?indicate dark color

• Based on the known information the effects are
  clear
• I ---Solid light color single cloth
• II ---Mixed color Face dark ends interlace
  with light picks
• III--- Mixed color Face light ends interlace
  with dark picks
• IV--- Solid dark color

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7.4 Tubular cloths

• I Concept
• II The main points of designing a tubular
  fabric
• ? Example

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I Concept

• Tubular weave is a kind of double weave in
  which both selvedges are joined. See Fig. 7.20.

Fig.7.20 tubular cloth
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II The main points of designing a tubular fabric

• (1) Selection of base weaves.
• (2) Arrangement of face and back threads.
• (3) Calculation of the number of total ends.
• (4) Drawing the weave

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1) Selection of base weaves

• The face weave and back weave should be the
  same. And the structure should be simple. The
  following weaves can be used as the bases plain
  weave, 2/2 weft ribs, twill, etc. The shift in
  weft direction should be constant otherwise, the
  selvedges are not even.

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2) Arrangement of face and back threads

• Arrangement in warp direction should be 1 1
  and in weft direction must be 1 1, otherwise,
  the selvedges can not be joined together properly.

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3) Calculation of the number of total ends

• To achieve a perfect continuation of the weave
  from face to back, certain rules of calculating
  the number of total ends in fabric have to be
  observed.
• Here, this formula is recommended
• Mot
• Where Mottotal number of ends
• Ro base weave
  repeat
• Z the number of
  base weave repeat
• Sy shift in weft
  direction
• If the base weave is plain, the Mot should
  be odd.
• If the first pick passing from left to
  right, Sy is negative.
• If the first pick passing right to left,
  Sy is positive.

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4) Drawing the weave

• The cross section of the tubular fabrics (show
  flash ) is helpful to draw the weave since from
  that we can get the back weave . See Fig. 7.21
• Where (A)face weave
• (B)back weave
• (C)cross section of the
• tubular fabric
• (D)weaving plan

Fig. 7.21
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Pay attention for weaving plan

• (1) Draft It is better using straight or
  grouped draft. If grouped draft is used, face
  ends should be drawn in the front shafts.
• (2) Denting To counteract the tendency of the
  weft to contract more at the selvedges than in
  the centre of the cloth, each of the first and
  last three dents in the reed should have
  approximately one third less threads than that
  are drawn into the other dents.

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• (3) Cords In order to achieve an even selvedge,
  the selvedge cords which are thick threads are
  used on purpose to prevent an increase of warp
  density near the selvedges. The cords are lifted
  up in such a manner that they are not woven in
  the fabric. These cords will be removed when the
  fabric is taken out of the loom.
• Usually the cords are drawn into the last
  shaft.

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Home works

• 1 Construct a interchange double weave, face and
  back weave 1/1 plain, arrangement, 1B 1L the
  pattern as Fig1.
• 2 Construct a tubular weave, the base weave is
  2/2 weft rib, and draw the cross section

Fig. 1