multi guide bar machine and fabrics

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Lesson 22
multi guide bar machine and fabrics

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22.1 the development of raschel lace

• Karl Mayer-raschel lace machine(2056),12 guide
  bars-36(2064)-42(2068)
• In 2081, electronics began to replace mechanical
  guide bar control and, 42-and 56-guide bar
  raschels without conventional chains were
  introduced.
• In 2085,the first jacquardtronic lace raschel
  with 78 guide bars, electronic pattern guide bar
  control, and electronic jacquard selection was
  unveiled.
• In 2090,the textronic lace raschel with 53guide
  bars.

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Fig 22.1 42-bar raschel lace machine Karl Mayer
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22.2 the success of raschel lace

• The inability of the slow, traditional lace and
  net machines to meet rapidly expanding demands
  for these types of fabrics.
• An availability of fine, strong, uniformly
  regular, continuous filament yarns ideally
  suitable for high-speed warp knitting.
• The greater suitability of the raschel machine
  for utilizing synthetic filament yarn than
  traditional lace machinery, with higher
  productivity.
• Ability to achieve satisfactory imitations of
  mesh constructions.
• Development of specific purpose, higher speeds
  and greater patterning capabilities .
• Improvements in patterning techniques such as
  jacquard.

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22.3 Pattern guide bars ???

• On conventional multi guide bar machines, the
  characteristics of pattern guide bars.
• Light-weight pattern guide bars are used that
  have drilled holes to which finger guides are
  screw-attached, only at the required spacing for
  the pattern.

Fig 22.2 Automatic overlap guide bar drive
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22.4 Guide bar nesting ?????

• Up to four bar can be nested together so that
  their guides converge into the same displacement
  line.
• Their swing as a single guide bar but they are
  shogged independently.

Fig 22.3 Raschel lace guide bar nesting
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22.5 Multi-bar tricot lace machines

• Multi guide bar tricot machines with between
  eight and eighteen guide bars have been built in
  gauges of E24-28 for the production of fine gauge
  lace.
• Pattern bars behind/??? the ground bars/??? are
  used for inlay effects.

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22.6 Chain links and electronic control of
shogging ??????????????

• The cost of chain links and the labour involved
  in chain assembly are major problems with multi
  guide bar machines
• Ground guide bars are generally controlled
  directly from links or pattern wheels moving at
  two links per course. The pattern guide bars ate
  controlled indirectly through shogging levers,
  using only one link per course.
• Leverage in the shogging arrangement can reduce
  the height and weight of the links.

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22.7 the summery drive ????

• The Karl Mayer electronically-controlled SU guide
  bar shogging arrangement now employed on
  multi-bar lace machines is typical of the efforts
  being made to replace chain links with a simpler
  and cheaper method for changing patterns more
  rapidly.
• It also eliminates the time and cost of
  assembling, dismantling, and storing the chain
  links.

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22.8 Raschel mesh structures ???????

• The three main raschel lace gauges are
• 28-gauge(E14),coarse gauge, is used for
  dress-wear .
• 36-gauge(E19), standard gauge.
• 48-gauge(E24), fine gauge, is used for lace
  edgings, etc..

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22.8 Raschel mesh structures ???????

• Three-course tulle /?????is the standard mesh for
  raschel lace, producing three courses on each
  wale with the inlay reinforcement lapping in
  unison.
• Cross tulle or bridal veil net/????
• 3/2 tulle/ 3/2????
• Five-course tulle /?????produces larger mesh and
  is more suitable for 28-gauge fabrics.
• Hexagonal pattern paper /???????is more useful
  than point paper when plotting inlay designs for
  lace .

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22.8 Raschel mesh structures ???????
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Fig 22.4 Raschel lace five course tulle with
inlay (a) structure (b) notation
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22.9 Marquisette and voile ???????

• Marquisette and voile curtain nets, which are
  both named after woven constructions, are
  produced with fully-threaded guide bars the front
  of which makes a pillar stitch.
• Marquisette has a square mesh whereas voile tends
  to show diagonal inlays.

Fig 22.5 Three bar Marquisette
Fig 22.6 Three bar voile
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22.10 Elasticised fabrics ????

• Elasticised fabrics are knitted on high-speed
  raschel and tricot machines as well as in
  patterned form on multi guide bar lace machines.
• The main prerequisites of these machines is
  delivery of the elastane yarn under conditions of
  controlled tension, robust knitting elements that
  will not deflect under the tension of the elastic
  yarn, and controlled tension for the fabric
  take-up.
• power net/????(fig 22.8) is the most widely-known
  structure for foundation wear.

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22.10 Elasticised fabrics ????
Front (nylon)
Elastane
Fig 22.7 Elastane fabrics
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22.11 Jacquard raschels ???????

• On Karl Mayer machine using mechanical jacquard
  control, the principle employed was to deflect
  selected guides in a fully-threaded jacquard bar
  guide bar by means of selectively lowered
  dropper pins /???carried in a separately-shogged
  displacement pin bar/????.

• Those guides have a greater or lesser extent of
  lap than the undeflected guides of the same guide
  bar which lap the distance controlled by the
  guide bar shogging at that course. The pins are
  kept in the displacement position or raised out
  of action by means of a verdol jacquard apparatus
  /????????and harness/?? arranged above the
  machine.

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22.11 Jacquard raschels ???????
(c)
(a)
(b)
Fig 22.8 Jacquard inlay deflection units.

• The type of deflection/?? is dependent upon the
  relative lapping movements of both bars and the
  exact moment when the pin contacts the guide, so
  that the guide is either deflected towards or
  away from its direction of lapping.
• figure illustrates how a semi-transparent
  /?????two-needle inlay /2???(a) can be deflected
  to the left at odd courses to produce open-work
  areas/???? of one-needle inlays /1??? (b), or at
  even courses to produce solid areas/???? of
  three-needle inlays /3??? (c).

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Fig 22.9 Mechanical jacquard apparatus.
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22.12 the Mayer jacquardtronic multi-bar lace
raschel ?????????????

• The traditional mechanical verdol jacquard
  control /????????, preciously described, is slow,
  cumbersome/??? and time-consuming when changing
  designs. On the latest electronic machines, the
  jacquard head has been replaced by a computer
  control that is simply linked by a cable/?? to
  the combined selection element and jacquard
  guide, which are one unit. There are no jacquard
  harness cords/?? for lifting and guide
  displacement which would restrict the use of the
  conventional guide bar swinging movement.
• At first, Karl Mayer used electro-magnets to
  obtain the jacquard deflection movement this has
  now been replaced by piezo technology/????. When
  an electrical voltage is applied to a
  piezoelectric material, it expands or contracts
  as a function of the polarity/???.

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22.12 the Mayer jacquardtronic multi-bar lace
raschel ?????????????
Fig 22.10 Jacquard segment of 17 or 32 segments
Karl Mayer.
Fig 22.11 Jacquard element Karl Mayer.
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22.12 the Mayer jacquardtronic multi-bar lace
raschel ?????????????

• Three MRPJ jacquardtronic machines have been
  developed with 25,43 and 73 guide bars in gauges
  E19 and E24. the 43-bar machine has a production
  speed of 421 courses per minute and a pattern
  repeat area of 178 needles and 14 000 courses.
• The latest Textronic /?????? fall-plate multi
  guide bar raschel lace machines use new
  technology to produce Leaver s lace/?????
  quality fabrics.

Fig 22.12 Leavers lace effect produced on a
Textronic raschel lace machine Karl Mayer
Textronic
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Fig 22.13 Textronic MRPJ 59/1/24 raschel lace
machine Karl Mayer.