Wood Processes

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Wood Processes

• PRODUCT DESIGN

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Wood Turning

• The Lathe

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Wood Turning

• This machine is a piece of equipment which is
  used to turn timber into round shapes, like round
  table legs, lamp bases and wooden bowls.
• The timber blank is held in the machine and a
  cutting tool is brought into contact with the
  revolving wooden blank which gradually takes on a
  cylindrical shape as wood is cut away.
• The woodturning lathe is a relatively simple
  machine consisting of two stands, a bed, a
  headstock, a tailstock, toolrests and electric
  motor providing the drive through a system of
  pulleys and a belt.

headstock
faceplate
tailstock
toolrest
electric motor
bed
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The Lathe

• Wood turning is the process of forming round
  objects on a lathe.
• There are two methods of turning, between centres
  and faceplate turning.
• Turning between centres is used to produce long
  cylindrical items such as table legs.
• Turning with a faceplate is used to produce items
  such as bases or bowls. As the wood rotates,
  special cutting tools are used to create shape.

between centres
faceplate turning
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The Power Router
Product Design
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Routing

• Routers are typically used to cut grooves, hollow
  out larger areas and create decorative trims
  along the edge of a piece of wood. The shapes
  that can be cut by your router are limited only
  by the number of router bits that you own.

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Routing

• Router bits can be categorised in two camps edge
  bits and non edge bits. Edge router bits have
  small nylon (or metal) wheels on the bottom of
  them (see picture) that run along the wood. This
  allows you to rout along the edge of the wood
  without using a fence. Non-edge bits do not have
  this wheel, and are therefore more commonly used
  when routing a groove down the middle of a piece
  of wood. However, they can also be used along the
  edge of the wood as long as you use a rip fence
  or a router table.

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Routing

• Router bits are made out of either High
  Speed Steel (HSS) or are Carbide Tipped.
  Carbide Tipped are far better, although they are
  significantly more expensive. However, as Carbide
  Tipped bits last up to 20 times longer, they do
  work out to be cheaper in the longer term.

• To rout a straight groove, either use a rip
  fence, a router table or clamp a straight rule
  across the wood so that the router can guided
  along it. It is important to note that there is a
  right and wrong way to run your router along the
  edge of a piece of wood. Typically routers rotate
  in a clockwise direction (when viewing the router
  from the top). It is therefore best to move the
  router from the left towards the right (when
  facing the wood). Routing in the wrong direction
  will cause the router bit to dig into the wood
  and may cause splintering of the wood. To ensure
  that your router abides by the left to right
  rule, consult your router manual.

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Spindle Moulding
Product Design
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Spindle Moulding

• Spindle moulders are mostly used for cutting
  mouldings and certain woodwork joints. The
  machine consists of a cutter block that rotates
  at high speed on a vertical spindle protruding
  through a hole in the worktable. Adjustable
  fences guide the work past the cutter block. A
  large variety of shaped cutting tools are
  available for spindle moulders. All wood working
  machines need to be handled with care, but a
  spindle moulder can be particularly dangerous.

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Spindle Moulding

• Special purpose spindle moulding machines are
  made for industry. The range of mouldings is
  vast and most timber merchants carry large
  stocks.
• Examples of mouldings include door and window
  frame section. Virtually any timber can be used
  for mouldings, but those with finer textures give
  smoother surfaces for final finishing. The
  properties of MDF make it especially suitable for
  mouldings that are usually finished by coating.

Spindle Moulding Machine
MDF
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Spindle Moulding
Spindle moulding machines are used to cut
decorative edges and panels in a range of
furniture.
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Joining
Product Design
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Jointing Frame Construction
Mortise and Tenon Joint
Cross Halving Joint
Bridle Joint
Tee Halving
Dovetail Tee Halving Joint
Picture Frame
Chair Frame
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Jointing Box and Carcass Construction
Through Housing Joint
Rebate Joint
Finger Joint
Stopped Housing Joint
Drawer Construction
Dovetail Joint
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Laminating
Product Design
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Laminating
Definition A board consisting of layers of wood
bonded together with the grain from each layer at
right angles from the neighbouring grain.
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Machines
Product Design
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Mortising Machine

• Heavy duty mortising machines are found in
  industrial
• workshops where cutting mortise and tenon joints
  is
• an integral part of the mass production process.
• Hollow Chisel Mortiser
• This machine has a special auger drill in the
  centre of a square, hollow chisel that has four
  cutting edges. When plunged into the workpiece
  it cuts a square hole. The drill cuts out the
  waste whilst the chisel squares off the corners.
  To cut a long, rectangular mortise the workpiece
  is slid sideways between each cutting.

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Bandsaws

• The bandsaw is an efficient, versatile
• machine whose main uses are handling
• large quantities of wood and shape cutting.
• It can cut thicker timber than the average
• circular saw and the thin blade means that
• wastage is minimal. The blade itself is a
• continuous loop of metal driven over two
• or three large wheels. A bandsaw can be
• used to cut outside curves but not inner
• curves without cutting through the material.

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Jigsaws

• The jigsaw is a very versatile tool. It will cut
  any man made board and rip or cross cut solid
  timber reasonably well. Its real advantage,
  however, is its ability to make curved cuts.
  When fitted with appropriate blade the jigsaw
  will also cut sheet metal and plastics

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Fretsaws

• Powered Fret saws are usually connected with
  lightweight craftwork and model making. A fret
  saw can be used to produce very accurate work as
  well as being able to cut very tight curves.

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Finishing
Product Design
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Finishing

• Stains/ Dyes - To change the colour of wood and
  retain the texture and grain a number of dyes and
  stains are available.
• The stain/dye can be brushed on to the wood or
  applied with a tightly tied rag .
• Allow to dry and coat with varnish or wax to
  seal the surface.
• Oil/Wax - Some timbers, e.g. teak do not varnish
  well because their own oil content and should be
  finished by applying a teak oil or similar
  product. They can also be waxed to seal the
  surface.
• The oil or wax should be applied in thin layers
  with rag and polished thoroughly with a clean rag
  between coats.
• The more work put in, the better the finish!
• Preservatives For timber used externally.
  Creosote is the cheapest and most common and once
  applied the brush should be cleaned thoroughly
  in paraffin before washing with soapy water
  leaving it to dry. Wood preservatives are
  normally harmful to the skin. Safety goggles
  and gloves should be worn and contact with the
  skin avoided.

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Finishing

• Painting Wood - There are a number of advantages
  in applying paint to wood
• it protects the surface
• b) it means less expensive timber can be used
• c) the colour can be changed to match any new
  colour scheme.
• STAGE 1 - once surface is prepared a primer coat
  should be applied and allowed to dry. It will
  seal and protect the surface. When dry lightly
  rub with glass paper.
• STAGE 2 - the undercoat should be applied. The
  shade should match that of the finished coat.
• STAGE 3 - the final coat should be applied.
  There are a number of types available, gloss,
  eggshell, matt vinyl, etc.
• After each coat is applied, the brush should be
  cleaned thoroughly in turpentine and then in warm
  soapy water before being dried ready for use in
  applying the next coat.

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Finishing

• Varnishing - will protect the surface of the
  wood and will allow the natural colour and
  texture of the wood to be seen.
• STAGE 1 - the first coat of varnish will seal the
  surface of the wood. For this coat the varnish
  should be thinned with turpentine in equal
  amounts and applied in a thin, even coat to all
  surfaces. When dried, the surface should be
  rubbed down carefully with steel wool.
• STAGE 2 - Further coats of varnish should be
  applied until the required finish is achieved.
  Steel wool should be used between each coat to
  smooth the surface.