Title: Leaning Tower Situation
1Leaning Tower Situation
Top, permanent anchor
Bill
Ive got you, Bill
Loobster
Key points There is no ground in this
situation. The bottom of this route is hundreds
of overhanging feet above the ground. The
belayer (Loobster) is not in line with the top
piece. So when all the pieces are unclipped, the
rope makes a sharp angle. When I unclip the last
piece the rope wants to pull through the
belayers device. He doesnt allow this to
happen and I dont swing out very far and I
couldnt fall down the rope because of the
tension induced by gravity and the angle of the
rope.
2DT Situation
Top, permanent anchor
Bill
This piece popped
Loobster
Slack piled up on the ground andI now had no
belay.
Ive got you, Bill
Key points The belayer is standing on the
ground The lower pieces have already been
removed when the second tried to follow the pitch
.Lower pieces would have stopped the fall
before the ground. Or caused the final fall to be
much closer to the ground. The belayer
(Loobster) is in line with the top piece. So when
all the pieces are unclipped, the rope doesnt
pull tight, but goes slack. The rappel belay
requires a tight rope. Remember, my hands were
not on my brake line. When the rope went slack,
I free fell to the ground.
3Top, permanent anchor
Bill
Ive got you, Bill
Loobster
4Top, permanent anchor
Bill
This piece popped
Loobster
Slack piled up on the ground andI now had no
belay.
Ive got you, Bill