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Knitting Terms and Definition
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Emdad Sarker Assistant Professor at Bangladesh
University of Textiles Assistant Professor at
Bangladesh University of Textiles Past Studied
Fabric Engineering at Bangladesh University of
Textiles (BUTEX)- 07 Knitting terms and
definition Fabric forming process Weaving is the
interlacement (Fig.a) of two sets of threads
(i.e. warp and weft) at a right
angle. Interlooping (Fig.c) consists of forming
yarn(s) into loops, each of which is only
released after a succeeding loop has been formed
and intermeshed with it. Includes a number of
techniques, such as braiding and knotting, where
threads are caused to intertwine (Fig.c) with
each other at right angles or some other angle.
Knitting Knitting is a technique to turn thread
or yarn into a piece of cloth. Knitted fabric
consists of horizontal parallel courses of yarn
which is different from woven cloth. The courses
of threads or yarn are joined to each other by
interlocking loops in which a short loop of one
course of yarn or thread is wrapped over the
another course.
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• Definition
• Knitting is a process of fabric forming by the
  intermeshing the loops of yarns. When one loop is
  drawn through another, loops are formed in
  horizontal or vertical direction.
• Types of Knitting
• There are two of knitting-
• Weft knitting
• Warp Knitting
• Weft knitting
• Weft Knitting is a method of forming a fabric in
  which the loops are made in horizontal way from
  a single yarn and intermeshing of loops take
  place in a circular or flat form on across wise
  basis.
• Warp Knitting
• Warp Knitting is a method of forming a fabric in
  which the loops are made in vertical way along
  the length of the fabric from each warp yarns and
  intermeshing of loops take place in a flat form
  of length wise basis.

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Course Wales Course The series of loops
those are connected horizontally, continuously
are called as course. The horizontal row of
loops that are made by adjacent needles in the
same knitting cycle. Wales The series of
loops that intermeshes vertically are known as
Wales. Vertical column of loops that are made
from same needle in successive knitting cycle
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Features of wales When loop transfer occurs it is
possible to transfer a wale of loops from one
needle A to another B. In warp knitting a wale
can be produced from the same yarn if the same
warp guide laps the same needle at successive
knitting cycles. Wales are connected together
across the width of the fabric by sinker loops
(weft knitting) or underlaps (warp
knitting). Wales show most clearly on the
technical face and courses on the technical back
of single needle bed fabric. Parts of a
loop Each knit stitch (knit loop) is a basic
unit for the knitted goods H Head or Crown or
top arc L Side limbs or Legs S Bottom arc or
Sinker loop ?Needle loopH2L ?A complete
loopNeedle loopSinker loop
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Needle loop Needle loop is the upper part of
the loop produced by the needle drawing the
yarn. Sinker loop The lower part of the knitted
loop is technically referred as sinker loop. It
is the connection of two legs belonging to
neighboring stitches lying laterally. Open
loop The open loop is one in which the loop
forming yarns do not cross at the bottom of the
loop. Closed loop In closed loop the legs
cross at the bottom, so that the loop closing
takes place.
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Face loop and technical face Face loop During
loop formation, when the new loop emerges through
the old loop from back to the face side then it
is termed as face loop or weft knitted
loop. Technical face The side of the fabric
which contains all face loops or weft knit loops
is known as technical face.
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• Back loop and Technical Back
• Back loop
• During loop formation, when the new loop passes
  from the face side to the back of the previous
  loop then it is termed as back loop or purl loop.
• Technical back
• The side of the fabric which contains all back
  loops or purl loops is known as technical back.
• Knitted stitch
• The knitted stitch is the basic unit of
  intermeshing. It usually consists of three or
  more intermeshed needle loops. The centre loop
  has been drawn through the head of the lower
  previously-formed loop and is, in turn,
  intermeshed through its head by the loop above
  it.
• Notations
• Knitting notation is a simple, easily-understood,
  symbolic representation of a knitting repeat
  sequence.
• Its resultant fabric structure that eliminates
  the need for time-consuming and possibly
  confusing sketches and written descriptions.
• Notations are used to express the knitted fabric
  structure and design. Notations are of four
  types
• Verbal notation.
• Line diagram/ Looping diagram 3.Diagrammatic
  notation/ Chain notation 4.Symbolic notation

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In weft knitted fabrics, a course of loops is
composed of a single length of yarn termed a
course length. Definition The length of yarn
required to produce a complete knitted course is
known as course length. Course length No. of
loops per course X Stitch length Course length
No. of needles X Stitch length Stitch
density Stitch density refers to the total number
of loops in a measured area of fabric. It is the
total number of needle loops in a given area
(such as a square inch Stitch density Wales
density x Courses density Wales per inch X
Courses per inch WPI X CPI Unit number of
loops per square inch Or, SD CPC x WPC (cm
scale)
Technically upright A knitted fabric is
technically upright when its courses run
horizontally and its wales run vertically, with
the heads of the needle loops facing towards the
top of the fabric and the course knitted first
situated at the bottom of the fabric. Single
jersey Double jersey Single jersey or plain
fabric The weft knitted fabric (Tubular/flat)
which is produced by one set of needles. Double
jersey The weft knitted fabric (Tubular/flat)
which is produced by two sets of needles. Fabric
draw-off The fabric loops are always drawn from
the needles on the side remote from their hooks.
When two sets of needles are employed, the fabric
will be produced and drawn away in the gap
between the two sets. Needle bed or needle
carrier Needle bed or needle carrier is the place
where the needles are located or mounted in a
knitting machine. Needle moves up and down in the
trick of a needle carrier.
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• Two types of needle carrier
• Cylindrical or circular
• Flat

Cylinder and Dial Cylinder Cylinder is a
circular steel bed having grooves / tricks /cuts
on its outer periphery into which the needles
are mounted. With reference to the tricks, the
needles move vertically up and down by their butt
being in contact with the cam track. The
diameter of the cylinder also varied based on the
type and width of the fabric. Maximum diameter
of the cylinder 46 inches. Dial Dial is the
upper steel bed used in double knit circular
machines. Into the grooves of the dial, the
needles are mounted horizontally and are allowed
to move radically in and out by their dial
cams. The number of grooves per unit space
conforms with the cylinder gauge in most of the
cases.
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Machine gauge or Needle gauge The number of
needles present in one inch of a needle bed is
called machine gauge. It is denoted by G or
E. Needle pitch The distance between two
neighboring needles Space required for each
needle. Feeder Feeders are the yarn guides
placed close to the needles to the full
circumference of the knitting zone. The feeders
feed the yarn into the needle hooks and control
the needle latches in their open position while
the needle attain their clearing
position. Selvedge Fabric A selvedge fabric is
one having a self edge to it and can only be
produced on machines whose yarn reciprocates
backwards and forwards across the needle bed so
that a selvedge is formed as the yarn rises up to
the next course at the edge of the fabric.
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Cut edge fabric Cut edge fabric usually produced
by slitting open a tube of fabric produced on a
circular machine. A slit tube of fabric from a
30 diameter machine will have an open width of
94(pd) at knitting before relaxation.

• Tubular Fabric
• This may be produced in double faced or single
  faced structures on circular machine, or in a
  single faced from on a straight machines with two
• sets of needles provided each needle set only
  knits at alternate cycles and that the yarn only
  passed across from one needle bed to other at
  the two selvedge needles at each end, thus
  closing the edges of the tube by joining the two
  single faced fabrics produced on each needle set
  together.
• Main features of a knitting machine
• The frame, normally free standing and either
  circular or rectilinear according to needle bed
  shape, provides the support for the majority of
  the machines mechanisms.
• The machine control and drive system co-ordinates
  the power for the drive of the devices and
  mechanisms.
• The yarn supply consists of the yarn package or
  beam accommodation, tensioning devices, yarn
  feed control and yarn feed carriers or guides.
• The knitting system includes the knitting
  elements, their housing, drive and control, as
  well as associated pattern selection and
  garment-length control device.

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• The fabric take-away mechanism includes fabric
  tensioning, wind-up and accommodation devices.
• The quality control system includes stop motions,
  fault detectors, automatic oilers and lint
  removal systems.
• How to write a machine specification?

Weft knitting machine Circular ?Single jersey
circular knitting machine. ?Rib circular
knitting machine. ?Interlock circular knitting
machine ?Socks circular knitting
machine. ?Double cylinder purl knitting
machine Flat ?Flat knitting machine ? V-bed
flat knitting machine ? Straight bar frame
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knitting terms and definitions Different types of
Knitting needles Different types of Sinkers
(13123)
Emdad Sarker Assistant Professor at Bangladesh
University of Textiles Assistant Professor at
Bangladesh University of Textiles Past Studied
Fabric Engineering at Bangladesh University of
Textiles (BUTEX)- 07 Comments 6 comments Powered
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