Skin and Skin Care Products

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Skin and Skin Care Products
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The Skin

• Encloses the body
• Prevents some internal materials from escaping
• Keeps most external materials out
• Regulates body temperature
• Regulates penetration of sunlight

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Layers of the skin

• The skin has many components, but it can be
  considered as four layers
• Subcutaneous tissue
• Underlying fatty material
• Dermis
• True skin
• Epidermis
• Outer layer
• Stratum Corneum

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Only skin deep?
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Stratum Corneum

• Outer most layer of the skin
• Approximately 10µm thick
• About 20 layers of dead cells
• Composed primarily of keratin (protein)
• Overlap like shingles
• Continually sloughed away
• Cannot be penetrated by water soluble materials.
• Can be destroyed by acid or caustic.

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Epidermis

• Replenishes the stratum corneum
• Contains the pigment producing cells that
  determine skin color.

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Dermis

• Contains the working elements of the skin
• Sensory nerves
• Hair follicles
• Blood vessles
• Sweat glands
• Sebaceous glands
• Excrete sebum
• 50 fat
• 20 wax
• 5 free fatty acids

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Skin Types

• Normal soft smooth skin with a healthy
  appearance
• Oily shiny with enlarged pores. Often
  blemished
• Dry fine texture, flaky, many expression lines,
  poor elasticity
• Sensitive florid with broken capillaries, fine
  textured, like dry skin
• Blemished excessively oily with blemishes

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Skin care Cosmetics

• Moisturizers
• Cleansing creams and lotions
• Cleansers for oily skin
• Lighteners
• Anti-aging
• Acne
• Sunscreen
• Self tanner

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Moisturizers

• A product that adds water, and often some
  emollients, to the skin. A variety of types of
  moisturizers are available (for various skin
  types), and are necessary for all skin types to
  prevent dehydration.
• Replaces water lost from the skin
• Dryness and flexibility cannot be corrected with
  oils - Only Water
• Oil is used to limit the evaporation of water.
• Formulation ingredients

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Common Ingredients

• Humectants
• Emolients
• Occlusives
• Actives
• Fragrance

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Humectants

• An ingredient in skin or hair products that draws
  moisture from the air to moisturize the skin and
  also promotes the retention of moisture in the
  skin
• Examples
• Glycerine
• Propylene glycol
• Sorbitol
• Urea
• Lactic acid
• Hyaluronic Acid

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Emolients

• Supple, waxlike, lubricating, thickening agents
  that prevent water loss and have a softening and
  soothing effect on the skin.
• A skin conditioning agent which helps maintain
  the smooth, soft pliable appearance of the skin.
• usually a grease or an oil that softens the skin
  and protects it from dryness.

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Emolients

• Examples
• Sunflower seed oil
• Allantoin
• Cocoa butter
• Olive oil
• Mineral oil
• Myristyl Myristate

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Occlusive

• substances that hold strongly to the surface of
  the skin, preventing access to the air and
  increasing absorption of cosmetic treatments.
• Usually refers to an occlusive shield or film
  that is spread onto the skin to slow or prevent
  moisture evaporation.

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Occluives

• Examples
• Petrolatum
• Lanolin
• Candililla wax
• dimethicone

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Actives Anti aging

• Alpha Hydroxy Acid Any one of several natural
  acids (glycolic, lactic, citric, malic) obtained
  from fruit which assist in shedding dead skin
  cells. They provide the benefit of chemical
  exfoliation of the skin, making skin appear
  clearer.

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Actives - Acne

• Benzoyl Peroxide - An oxygen releasing chemical
  which causes drying, peeling and antibacterial
  action on the skin. Used for acne lesions,
  benzoyl peroxide is the number one acne
  medication recommended by doctors.

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Actives sunless tanning

• Dihydroxyacetone - The active ingredient of
  sunless tanning products, reacts with amino acids
  in the outer layers of the skin to produce a
  browning effect.

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Actives skin lightening

• Kojic acid is primarily used in cosmetics for
  it's skin lightening effect. It acts as an
  inhibitor of tyrosinase, which is responsible for
  the formation of melanin - the skin coloring
  agent in skin.
• hydroquinone. Substance that is known to
  successfully reduce the intensity of freckles,
  melasma, and general brown patching by inhibiting
  melanin production. For continued and increased
  effectiveness it must be used long term.

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Actives - sunscreens

• Zinc oxide - an opaque, full-spectrum sunscreen
  also used to give opacity to face powder and
  foundation.
• Titanium dioxide - a full-spectrum , which means
  that it protects the skin from both UVA and UVB
  rays. It is also used to give opacity to face
  powder, eye shadow, and foundation.

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Actives anti-dandruff

• Zinc pyrithione - a strong anti-dandruff
  ingredient that is both a bactericide and
  fungicide. It can be irritating to the skin.