Preparing to Sew

1
Preparing to Sew

• Chapter 44

2
Objectives

• How to select patterns
• The importance of pattern information
• What you should consider in preparing and
  selecting fabrics.
• The methods of laying out and marking a pattern.

3
Terms

• Bias
• Ease
• Interfacing
• Layouts
• Notions
• Seam allowance
• Selvage
• Views

4
Selecting a Pattern

• Most people have the common desire to be
  creative.
• Pattern sewing catalogs give this opportunity.
• Patterns are numbered and the pattern envelopes
  are organized by this numerical fashion in easy
  to use drawers.
• Catalogs are divided into sections
• Easy to sew
• Sportswear
• Crafts
• Etc..

5
Pattern Envelopes

• The front and back contain helpful information.
• Pictures of the finished project, size charts
  that explain how much fabric is needed according
  to your size, notion needed, suggested fabrics,
  descriptions and pattern views.

6
Taking Measurements

• Tote bags and pillows do not need measurements
  however, garments requires several body
  measurements.
• Make sure to remove bulky jackets, sweaters, or
  belts before measuring.
• When measuring, hold a tape measure snugly. Not
  too tight or too loose.
• Work with a partner
• Write it down

7
Taking Measurements (see page 594)
8
Figure Types

• Figure types are size catagories based on height
  and body proportions.
• You need three pieces of information your
  height, back waist length (females), and body
  proportion.
• Compare this with the body measurement charts on
  the back pattern catalog to determine figure
  type.

9
Pattern Size

• After identifying figure type, determine pattern
  size.
• Compare your hip, chest or bust, and waist
  measurements with those listed on the measurement
  charts.
• Select most pattern sizes by your bust or chest
  measurements, or waist measurements for pants or
  skirts.
• However, if your hips are large in relation to
  your waist, use this measurement.

10
Selecting Fabrics and Notions

• Before buying fabric, think about whether or not
  it is appropriate for your pattern, sewing
  skills, and body.
• What will this fabric look like on you?
• What are the care instructions?
• Where will you wear this garment?

11
Interfacingand Notions

• Interfacing (sewn-in or fusible)
• Special fabric that gives support and body to a
  garment or project
• It is placed between the facing and the outer
  fabric so that it is not visible
• Especially useful for hats, belts, or bags-
  necklines also
• Notions
• Small items such as thread, zippers, buttons,
  trim, seam binding, hooks and eyes, snaps, etc..
  Needed to complete a garment
• Match thread and zippers to fabric

12
Using the Pattern

• Guide sheet inside the envelope
• Sketches of different styles or views that can be
  made from the pattern
• A list and diagram of pattern pieces
• Cutting layouts, diagrams that show how to lay
  out the pattern pieces on the fabric for
  different sizes, fabric widths, and types of
  fabrics
• Step by step instructions for sewing the garment
  or project

13
Pattern Symbols

• Each pattern has a number of symbols or markings-
  guides
• Cutting line- heavy line to cut out fabric
• Grainline- straight line with arrows to direct
  the grain of the fabric
• Place on fold- brackets
• Darts- broken lines to show stitching
• Placement line- solid line to locate pockets,
  trims, etc
• Seamline- broken line (5/8-1 inch) inside cutting
  line, shows where to stitch
• Adjustment line- Parallel lines to show cuts or
  folds
• Notches- diamond symbols to join peices together
• Dots, squares, and triangles- join project
  sections together

14
Fitting the Pattern

• Compare measurement of the pattern with your body
  measurements
• Usually larger than your body for EASE
• Smooth the pattern pieces with a warm, dry iron
• Measure the pattern pieces at the same locations
  that the body was measured.
• Do not include seam allowances

15
Preparing Fabric

• Lengthwise grain has little or no stretch
• The selvage is the finished lengthwise edge of
  the fabric (will not ravel)
• Crosswise yarns have stretch
• The true bias has the most stretch, diagonal edge
  formed when the fabric is folded with the
  crosswise grain parallel to the selvage
• Follow pattern selvage lines so that the stretch
  of the final garment is correct.

16
Preshrinking Fabric

• Two Reasons
• Make sure the fabric wont shrink after youve
  made your garment
• relaxes the fabric so the grain can be checked
  more accurately

17
Pattern Layout

• Cut apart the pattern pieces that you need
• Check them off the list as you find them
• Put extras back into the envelope
• Press if very wrinkled
• Write your name on them so they can be more
  easily found

18
Positioning pattern pieces

• Circle the layout you are using on the pattern
  guide sheet
• Check the layout instructions carefully
• Fold the fabric as shown in the layout diagram-
  usually in half with lengthwise grain right sides
  together
• Position the large pattern pieces to be placed on
  the first fold- pin secrurely

19
Cutting out the pattern

• Use sharp shears
• Follow outlines carefully
• Do not cut the fold line
• Cut notches outward not inward
• Keep pieces pinned

20
Marking the fabric

• Transfer all pattern markings to the wrong side
  of your fabric before the pattern in unpinned,
  they must be visible when you sew, but should not
  show on the outside of the fabric
• Fabric markers
• Tracing paper and tracing wheel
• Chalk and pins

21
Summary

• Be Careful
• Follow directions
• Take your time