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The Save Our Seed Project

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In a tomato crop, if seed is saved from every fruit, the variety will deteriorate ... Never ever eat your very best tomato, as you would never slaughter the goose ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: The Save Our Seed Project


1
The Save Our Seed Project
You Can Grow Better Seed Than You Can Buy!
A short class in the principals of selecting
superior seed The Save Our Seed Project Worksho
p Southern SAWG Conference Louisville, Kentucky
1/22/06
  • NC Workshop, 2/18/04

Cricket Rakita, cricket_at_savingourseed.org
Print this presentation with notes for extra
information
2
O.P. VS Hybrid Varieties
  • Open Pollinated varieties are bred from parents
    that look similar to the offspring
  • Hybrid (AKA F1) varieties are bred from crossing
    2 parents that are different
  • Open pollinated varieties will breed true, while
    hybrids will produce random results for many
    generations.

3
Population Size
  • For Superior seed, it is important that enough
    plants be grown to insure genetic diversity
  • Corn requires at least 2000 plants
  • Brassicas require at least 500 plants
  • Beans and peas should have at least 60 plants,
    but some cultivars need fewer. This need can be
    assessed by observing the variability from plant
    to plant
  • Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, squash,
    cucumbers, melons, and gourds require at lest 45
    plants

4
It is important to isolate seed crops from other
crops of the same species to avoid unwanted
crossing.
5
Some cultivars need more isolation than others
6
It is best to encourage seed crops to cross
within the population
  • Plant seed crops in a square shape when possible.
    This will reduce the distance between plants
    with in the population.

7
Pollinators
  • If you are saving seed from anything that is at
    all insect pollinated, it is best to encourage
    natural pollinators in your garden or farm for
    maximum crossing within your population. This
    will give you a more healthy, genetically diverse
    seed stock.

8
Rouging vs. Selection
  • Rouging is the removal of plants from a seed
    production population before the plants flower
  • Selection is the active choice to save seeds from
    the best performing plants and/or fruits after
    flowering has occurred
  • Rouging is always preferred for seed saving, but
    it is not always possible.

9
Importance of Rouging and Selection, an Example
  • In a tomato crop, if seed is saved from every
    fruit, the variety will deteriorate
  • If through rouging and selection, the best 2/3 of
    all fruits are used for seed saving, the seed
    crop will be similar to the parent crop
  • If you only save seed from the best half or fewer
    of tomato fruits, the crop will improve with
    respect to the selection criteria you use.
  • If heavy rouging and selection pressures are
    applied to a large population of plants, marked
    improvement will be made in a small number of
    generations

10
THE KEY!!!
  • The Key to producing superior seed is heavy
    selection and rouging! Never ever eat your very
    best tomato, as you would never slaughter the
    goose that lays golden eggs for meat, for in it
    are your seeds. Keep your mind focused on the
    goal and in a few years, your average produce
    will exceed your above average produce today.

11
Why Can You Always Save Better Seed Than You Can
Buy?Because you only need a little seed. The
companies you buy seed from need to produce a lot
of seed. Therefore, you can select much more
heavily for what you want.
12
And Another Thing
  • Organic farming and gardening are forms or art as
    much as science. No two artists are the same,
    nor are any two farmers. Only YOU can select
    seeds that work well in your system, under your
    conditions, in your soil, and on your schedule.

13
Determine Your Selection Criteria Before You Plant
  • Select criteria that you see some promise for in
    the parent stock. Write it all down in your
    journal.
  • If you are selecting for many criteria, you may
    need to narrow it down to 1 or 2 primary ones for
    the first season. You will have a chance to
    broaden your criteria as the seasons go by.
    Dont expect to make significant progress on
    more than three criteria in a two year period.
  • Dont forget flavor!!!

14
Horizontal VS Vertical Resistance
  • A plant is vertically resistant to a pathogen
    when it shows no signs of the pathogen while
    under pressure. Vertical pathogen resistance is
    often overcome by mutation or evolution of the
    pathogen. Vertical resistance is associated with
    one gene.
  • A plant is horizontally resistant to a pathogen
    when the plant show mild signs of infection under
    pressure but continues to grow. Horizontal
    resistance will be less susceptible to to
    mutation and evolution of the pathogen.
    Horizontal resistance is associated with a broad
    array of genes. Horizontal resistance will
    generally increase through generations of
    selection.

15
Things to Look For as Early Signs of Horizontal
Resistance
  • The last plant in a patch to succumb to a disease
    or insect.
  • A plant that is showing disease or insect
    pressure but is still being more productive than
    the plants around it. Especially pay attention
    to which plants are the last to set fruit.

16
Seedling Vigor
  • Try planting five or ten seeds per pot for every
    seedling you wish to raise. Save the first
    healthy seedling to emerge and kill the rest.
    After 2 generations, you will notice marked
    improvement in seedling vigor, I guarantee it.

17
Dont Select For Early Bolters!
  • With vegetable plants that are not generally
    harvested for seed, beware the early bolters.
    Saving seed from the last to bolt is often not
    intuitive to most beginning seed savers, but it
    is important.

18
How Much Seed Should You Save?
  • For the most marked improvement, I advise saving
    seed from the best 5-7 of your plants. If you
    will save seed form that few number of plants,
    make sure to follow the population size minimums
    mentioned earlier. For most crops, this will
    provide more seed than you need to replant the
    the crop again.

19
Dont Select For Good Soil
  • If there is a section of your plot with poorer
    soil than the rest, it may be your tendency to
    not select any seeds from that area. Always give
    some deference to the seeds that come from the
    plants that are doing the best in your worst
    areas. They have a genetic strength that you
    will have no chance to see and select for in the
    rest of your crop.

20
Seed Processing Techniques
21
Tomato Seed Saving
  • Select the plants that are performing the best in
    the patch. The patch should ideally have at
    least 30 plants in it. If possible, select from
    twenty or so of the plants. Avoid harvesting
    from plants that are the first to succumb to a
    disease.

22
When To Harvest Tomatoes for Seed
  • Wait until the tomatoes are completely ripe.
    Avoid harvesting from fruits that show any signs
    of disease. Allow the fruits to sit at room
    temperature for least one day after harvesting
    them.

23
Begin the Ferment
  • Mash the ripe tomatoes in an appropriate sized
    container and add 1/3 the volume again in water.
    Allow to set in an environment as close to 70-75
    degrees as possible.

24
Stir the Ferment
  • Stir the ferment at least every eight hours.
    When you stir it you will see tiny bubbles on the
    top of the ferment. You will notice as you do
    this that many seeds will begin to sink to the
    bottom. When you no longer see the bubbles. . . .

25
When to stop the Ferment
  • When you no longer see bubbles while stirring the
    ferment, then the fermentation is complete and
    you can proceed to clean the seeds. This will
    happen after between 36 and 96 hours.

26
Pouring off the water
  • Add water to the ferment. Let it sit for a half
    minute. In this time, the good seeds will sink
    to the bottom and the bad seeds and sludge will
    float to the top. Slowly pour off the water
    until the good seeds are almost ready to come
    out. Add water, wait 30 seconds, and repeat
    until you are pouring off clean water.

27
Drying the Seed
  • Allow the seed to dry for ten to twenty days.
    Make sure to keep it labeled. You may also dry
    the seed more quickly with a desiccant.

28
Pepper Seed Processing
  • Wait until the peppers are completely ripe and
    have reached their final color. Avoid harvesting
    from fruits that show any signs of disease.
  • If necessary, peppers can be harvested when they
    are half ripe and ripened off the vine with
    apples or bananas in a box.

29
Begin the Ferment
  • Cut the cores with the seeds out of the peppers
    and put them in a container. Fill the container
    with water over the top of the pepper cores.

30
Stir the Ferment
  • Stir the ferment after eight hours and then again
    after twelve hours

31
When to stop the Ferment
  • After twelve hours of fermentation, pull the
    cores out 1 at a time and rub all the seeds off
    of them by hand under the water.

32
Pouring off the water
  • Add water to the ferment. Let it sit for a half
    minute. In this time, the good seeds will sink
    to the bottom and the bad seeds and sludge will
    float to the top. Slowly pour off the water
    until the good seeds are almost ready to come
    out. Add water, wait 30 seconds, and repeat
    until you are pouring off clean water.

33
Squash Harvesting
  • Weather the squash is a summer or winter squash,
    allow the squash to fully ripen as a winter
    squash would. You should not be able to dent the
    shell with your thumbnail.

34
Squash Curing
  • Allow the squash to sit for two weeks between 30
    and 70 degrees.

35
Cutting the squash
  • Cut the squash with a box cutter around the body.
    Avoid cutting it with a long blade knife as this
    will cut many of the seeds as well.

36
Washing the Seed
  • Wash the seed with a high pressure hose until all
    of the stringy chaff is gone.

37
Ferment the Seed
  • Ferment the seed for one hour. Clean and dry as
    you would tomatoes or peppers.

38
Brassica Seed Harvesting and Processing
  • Allow brassica plants to overwinter. While some
    plants will produce seed without overwintering,
    saving seed from these plants will select for
    fast bolters.

39
When to Harvest the Seed
  • When the seed pods have turned brown, cut the
    plants and allow them to cure out of the rain for
    a week

40
How to Thresh the Seed
  • The seed should be threshed with a twisting
    pressure. This can be applied by walking over
    the seed in rubber soled shoes, driving over the
    seed on a tarp, or some other creative method.

41
Field Scale Production
  • If field scale production is underway, combine
    the brassica seed a week or more after the seeds
    have completely dried.

42
Cleaning the Seed
  • Cleaning the seed can be done with the following
    tools
  • Put the seed through two screens, one too large
    and one too small for the seed to fit between.
  • Blow off the chaff with a fan
  • Roll the seed down a flat surface and discard
    everything that isnt round enough to make it
    with the seed.

43
When to Harvest Bean Seed
  • Harvest bean seeds by individual pods when the
    pods are yellow and leathery. This method is
    strongly recommended for growers in the
    Southeast.

44
Curing the Seed
  • Cure the pods until the seed and the pods are
    dry. It is crucial to keep them in a place where
    the air circulation is good for this period. If
    the pods must be stacked for space reasons, build
    a chamber to force air through the seeds.

45
Thrashing the seed.
  • Hand shell the pods or put the pods in a 2/3 full
    sack and roll on it.

46
Flower Structure
47
Self Pollinated Plants
  • Barley, flax, oats, wheat, common beans,
    fava, lima bean, pea, runner bean, sweet peas,
    chicory, eggplant, endive, lettuce, okra, pepper,
    tomato. (Note some of these plants outcross at
    1-40 or more depending upon presence of
    pollinators, temperature, humidity, plant stress,
    etc.- including fava, runner bean, eggplant,
    pepper, tomato - for absolute genetic control,
    treat these plants as out-crossers and either
    hand-pollinate, observe minimum isolation
    distances, or plant only one variety at a time.)

48
Cross-Pollinated Plants
  • Amaranth, corn, rye, cilantro, fennel,
    mustard, parsley, alfalfa, red white clover,
    asparagus, beet, broccoli, cabbage, carrot,
    cauliflower, celeriac, celery, Chinese cabbage,
    cucumber, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, melon, onion,
    parsnip, pumpkin, radish, rutabaga, spinach,
    squash, sunflower, Swiss chard, turnip,
    watermelon (Note these plants require isolation,
    hand-pollination, caging, etc. for effective
    genetic control - plants of the same species and
    rarely same genius esp. cabbage, squash, and
    melon families will intercross readily requiring
    careful pollination control to maintain
    true-to-type seed production.

49
Label everything
  • Always label every step of the process. When
    seeds are being stored, there should be a label
    on the outside and in the inside of every
    container with your name, the cultivar, and the
    month and year the crop was harvested.
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