Unit D MERCHANDISE INFORMATION

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Unit DMERCHANDISE INFORMATION

• 4.01 Identify basic textile fibers, fabrics, and
  their characteristics.

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Textile Industry Terms

• Fiber The smallest unit in a textile fabric.
• Yarn A group of fibers twisted together to form
  a continuous strand.
• Fabric Any material that is made by weaving,
  knitting, braiding, knotting, laminating,
  felting, or chemical bonding.
• Hand The way a fabric feels to the touch.
• Denier Thickness or diameter of a fiber.
• Microfibers Ultra fine, soft, luxurious fibers
  possessing the same desirable qualities as
  expensive natural fibers but costing less and
  requiring less special care.
• CAD (Computer Aided Design) Computer system
  software used for designing textiles, fashion,
  apparel, and other products.

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Natural fibers
Fibers from plants or animal sources.

• Staple fibers Lower quality, short fibers.
• Filament fibers Long, continuous fibers of
  higher quality.

• Cellulosic fibers Fibers from plants.
• Protein fibers Fibers derived from animals or
  insects.

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Manufactured fibers
Fibers that are man-made (synthetic) and are
created by combining various substances with
chemicals.

• Solid raw materials and chemicals are melted or
  dissolved to form a thick liquid.
• The liquid is forced through the tiny holes of a
  mechanical device known as a spinnerette to form
  filaments. (Similar to pushing dough through a
  pasta machine to make spaghetti.)
• The filaments are then stretched, hardened, and
  crimped and/or cut into lengths.

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Manufactured fibers (cont.)

• Cellulosic manufactured fibers are made from
  cellulose from plants such as soft wood pulp and
  are changed into usable fibers by applying
  chemicals.
• Noncellulosic manufactured fibers are made from
  various petrochemical mixtures of crude oil,
  natural gas, air, and water.

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Blend A combination of two or more fibers that
maximizes the best features of each fiber.

• Example Combining cotton with polyester

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Natural fibers

• Cotton
• Wool

• Flax (linen)
• Silk

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Cotton
The soft, white, downy fiber (boll) attached to
the seed of a cotton plant.

• Most widely used of all natural fibers
• Grown in the southern U.S. and other warm
  climates
• Characteristics
• Strong and durable
• Absorbent
• Cool to wear
• Shrinks in hot water
• Wrinkles easily

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Cotton

• Proper care
• Machine wash
• Tumble dry at moderate temperatures
• Press with warm to hot iron
• Common uses
• Underwear
• Socks
• Shirts, blouses
• Jeans
• Towels, sheets

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Wool

• The fiber that forms the coat (fleece) of sheep.
  
• Primary sources are Australia, South America, New
  Zealand, and United Kingdom
• Characteristics
• Natural insulator warmest of all natural
  fibers
• Soft and resilient
• Naturally flame retardant
• Absorbs moisture more slowly than cotton
• Shrinks if machine washed or dried unless
  chemically treated
• Affected by moths

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Wool

• Proper care for untreated wool
• Dry clean or hand wash in cool water and a mild
  detergent (according to garment label)
• Do not place in dryer
• Press with cool iron

• Common uses
• Sweaters
• Tailored suits
• Coats
• Blankets
• Upholstery
• Rugs, carpets

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Flax

• The fiber that comes from the stem of a flax
  plant.
• Grown and harvested primarily in Eastern Europe
• Linen is made by weaving or knitting flax fiber
  into fabric.

• Common uses
• Pants
• Blazers
• Table linens
• Upholstery

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Flax

• Characteristics
• Durable and strong
• Lustrous and smooth
• Comfortable and cool to wear
• Wrinkles easily
• Creases difficult to remove
• Can be expensive
• Proper Care
• Hand wash or dry clean (according to garment
  label)
• Iron while damp

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Silk
The fine, lustrous fiber that comes from a cocoon
spun by a silkworm.

• The silkworm forces two fine streams of a thick
  liquid out of tiny openings in its head.
• These streams harden into filaments or fibers
  upon contact with the air.
• Primarily produced in Asia (Thailand, China,
  India), and Madagascar

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Silk

• Characteristics
• Luxurious appearance and feel
• Strongest of all natural fibers
• Drapes nicely
• Expensive
• Easily spots if fabric becomes wet
• Weakens with exposure to sun and perspiration

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Silk

• Proper Care
• Dry clean or hand wash (according to garment
  directions)
• Press on wrong side with warm iron
• Common uses
• Wedding gowns
• Lingerie
• Mens ties

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Leather and Fur

• Leather and fur are from the hides or skins of
  animals.
• Leather A tough, flexible material made by
  preserving animal hides through a process called
  tanning.
• Tanning converts hides into finished
  usable leather.

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Leather is used for Handbags Shoes Belts Jack
ets
Leather

• Primary sources
• Cattle
• Goatskins
• Sheepskins
• Reptiles

Suede Leather with a napped surface on the
flesh side.
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Fur
The soft, hairy coat of an animal.

• Fur is used for
• Coats
• Outerwear
• Trimmings
• Common Sources
• Mink
• Chinchilla
• Fox
• Rabbit

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Manufactured fibers

• Polyester
• Nylon
• Acrylic

• Rayon
• Acetate
• Spandex

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Polyester

• Made from coal or petroleum
• Strong and often blended with other fibers
• Resistant to wrinkling
• Shrink and stretch resistant
• Easy to care for
• Great washability
• Pills easily
• Static buildup
• Common uses
• Childrens wear, shirts, suits

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Nylon

• First fiber to be manufactured totally from
  chemicals
• Strong, durable, elastic
• Dries quickly
• Resists wrinkles and soil
• Washes easily
• Heat sensitive
• Clings to the wearer
• Common uses
• Hosiery, swimwear, windbreakers

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Acrylic

• Common uses
• Terrycloth
• Bathrobes
• Knitted
  
  
  garments
• Outdoor furniture fabrics and awnings

• Resembles wool
• Soft and warm
• Bulky, yet lightweight
• Quick drying
• Strong
• Wrinkle resistant
• Static buildup
• Pills easily

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Rayon

• Soft, absorbent, and comfortable
• Inexpensive
• Stretches and is weak when wet
• Mildews and wrinkles easily
• Common uses
• Linings
• Sports shirts
• Jackets

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Acetate

• Very versatile
• Inexpensive and easy to dye
• Silky, luxurious
• Deep luster, soft
• Wrinkles easily
• Special care needed in cleaning
• Common uses
• Neckties
• Lingerie
• Blouses
• Linings

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Spandex

• Known for its ability to stretch
• Resistant to lotions, oils, sun, and perspiration
  
• Easily damaged by chlorine bleach
• Soft, lightweight
• Durable
• Nonabsorbent
• Common uses
• Swimwear
• Dancewear
• Exercise wear

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Steps involved in fabric production

1. Fibers are usually twisted together and spun into
   yarns.
2. Yarns are either woven or knitted to form fabric.
3. Color is added by dyeing or printing to enhance
   the fabrics appeal.
4. A finish is applied to make the fabric suitable
   for its end use and to improve its appearance.

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Turning Yarn into Fabric

• Weaving The process of interlacing one or more
  sets of yarns at right angles on a loom.

• Warp yarns Yarns that run lengthwise in woven
  fabric.
• Weft yarns Yarns that run crosswise in woven
  fabric.

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Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.)

• Grain The direction of the lengthwise and
  crosswise yarns or threads in a woven fabric.
• Bias The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias
  provides the greatest give or stretch in the
  fabric.

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Weaving

• Plain weave The simplest weave in which the
  weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under
  each warp (lengthwise) yarn.
• A basket weave is one variation, with the weft
  yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns
  each pass.
• Examples Chiffon, seersucker, taffeta

Plain weave
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Weaving

• Twill weave A weave in which the weft yarn is
  passed over and under one, two, or three warp
  yarns beginning one warp yarn back on each new
  row.
• Used for durability, this weave produces a
  diagonal design on the surface.
• Examples denim, gabardine

Twill weave
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Weaving

• Satin weave A weave that produces a smooth,
  shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the
  weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to
  create long floats.
• Examples sateen, satin

Satin weave
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Weaving

• Other weaves
• Pile weavecorduroy, velvet
• Dobbydotted swiss, pique
• Jacquardbrocade, damask
• Lenofabrics with an open, lacy appearance

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Knitting
Constructing fabric by looping yarns together.

• Weft knits Knits made with only one yarn that
  runs crosswise forming a horizontal row of
  interlocking loops.
• Cut edges will curl.
• Weft knits run if snagged.
• Examples jersey, ribbed knits, sweater knits

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Knitting (cont.)

• Warp knits Knits made with several yarns
  creating loops that interlock in the lengthwise
  direction.
• Do not ravel
• Have selvage edges
• Examples tricot, raschel knits
• Gauge The number of stitches, or loops, per
  inch in a knitted fabric.

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Additional ways to construct fabric

• Nonwoven. Fibers are compacted together using
  moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, or pressure.
  Examples quilt batting, garment interfacings,
  felt, artificial suede
• Laces and nets. Made by knotting, twisting, or
  looping yarns. Example lace
• Braided fabrics. Created by interlacing three or
  more yarns to form a regular diagonal pattern
  down the length of the resulting cord. Examples
  decorative trims, shoelaces
• Bonded fabric. Made by permanently fastening
  together two layers of fabric by lamination.
  Examples two fabrics bonded so that one serves
  as a self-lining as in skiwear or winter coats

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Additional ways to construct fabric (cont.)

• Quilted fabric. A layer of padding or batting is
  sandwiched between two layers of fabric and held
  in place by stitching. Examples of use
  bedspreads, placemats, and outerwear

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Fabric finishing

• Applying colors, designs or surface treatments
  that change the look, feel, or performance of
  fabrics.
• Bleaching Chemical processes that remove color,
  impurities, or spots from fibers.
• Dyeing A method of giving color to a fiber,
  yarn, fabric, or garment.
• Printing The process of adding color, pattern,
  or design to the surface of fabrics.

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Finish categories

• Chemical Finishes that become part of the
  fabric through chemical reactions with the
  fibers.
• Affect performance
• Examples flame retardant, stain resistant
  (Scotchgard), waterproof, permanent press,
  preshrunk (Sanforized)

• Mechanical Finishes that are applied
  mechanically rather than chemically.
• Affect size and appearance
• Examples glazing, embossing, brushing/napping/cu
  tting (corduroy)

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Trends and Technology
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Equipment and machinery

• More automated weaving and knitting machines
• Color management tools that can synchronize a
  colored design on a computer screen, a paper
  printout, and the actual fabric color
• Sophisticated CAD tools with 3D capabilities
• Processes constantly monitored by computer systems

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• Microfibers
• Enhanced characteristics for high performance
  fabrics resulting in production of intelligent
  garments
• - wicking (a fibers ability to draw moisture
  away from the body so it can evaporate)
• - coolness
• - warmth
• - protection

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Development of new recycling processes

• Plastic soda bottles converted into polyester
  fiber
• used to make fabric for t-shirts and filling for
  pillows
• can be recycled numerous times without losing its
  performance attributes

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Nonwoven fabrics

• Finding increasing use in reusable apparel and
  other products
• replacing traditional knits and wovens
• widely used as interlinings in blouses, jackets,
  shirts, and waistbands
• introduced for fishing and hunting apparel
• used for medical textiles with special barrier
  materials to protect those in the operating room
• printed nonwovens used for tops and blouses
• also found in the SPF garments (garments that
  allow you to tan through the fabric at a
  controlled rate)

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Individuality

• More choices in clothing for consumers
• Demand for mass-customization in clothing.
• In any mall, customers can find a store that will
  print a custom design on a t-shirt or embroider a
  customized design on a cap.
• Lands End will monogram initials on a garment.
• Brooks Brothers handles orders for custom-made
  shirts or suits.
• Mass customization is prevalent in the uniform
  sector where logos and names are embroidered or
  printed on garments. Examples Federal Express,
  Postal Service, and football teams

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New and improved textiles

• Required to protect those who face hazardous
  environments
• Lighter and stronger textiles required for sports
  
• Absorbable, antibiotic, antimicrobial, durable,
  self-decontaminating, and comfortable textiles
  required for medical applications
• Better filters, road-building fabrics,
  geotextiles, and textiles for spaceships and
  communication systems required for industrial use
• Demand for textiles that can be reused and/or
  recycled

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Smart fibers

• Smart fibers of the future will inform or assist
  the wearer. Potential applications include
  clothes that monitor the medical condition of the
  wearer, that warn of the presence of toxic
  chemicals, or that adjust to suit the wearers
  environment.
• Dr. Niall Finn, CSIRO Textile and Fiber
  Technology

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Mirrors

• High-performance mirrors have been formed into
  hair-thin fibers and woven into fabrics and
  paper.
• Could create clothing and documents with advanced
  capabilities
• Clothes that reflect and protect against
  invisible microwaves and radiation
• Clothes that can change colors like a chameleon
• Massachusetts Institute of Technology

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Government regulations

• The Wool Products Labeling Act (1939) provides
  that all garments made of wool have a label
  indicating the percentage and kind of wool used.
• The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
  (1958) requires that all clothing have a label
  listing the generic fiber content by percentage.
• The Flammable Fabrics Act (1953) regulates the
  sale of highly flammable fabrics used in apparel
  and prohibits the sale of extremely flammable
  fabrics.
• The Permanent Care Labeling Act (1972) requires
  that all clothing offered for sale in retail
  stores have a label indicating specific care
  instructions. New symbols for use in this
  labeling were introduced in 1997.