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Perfumes

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Good sources for jasmine, rose, orange. Modern perfume industry started here ... Chypre (bergamot, jasmine, oakmoss) Aldehydic (most famous is Chanel No.5, ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Perfumes


1
Perfumes
  • Earliest use of plant fragrance lost in history
  • Perfume (burning plants) may have been first use
  • Egyptians using scented oils at least 5000 years
    ago
  • Egyptian men would put solid cone of perfume on
    the head, let it melt

2
  • Greeks used various scents for different body
    parts
  • mint, marjorum, thyme, etc
  • Romans scented clothes, houses, bedding and bath
    oil, as well as their bodies
  • Japanese and Chinese used incense as clocks

http//www.nawcc.org/museum/nwcm/galleries/asian/i
ncense.htm
3
Traditional methods of extracting essences
  • Not usually water soluble
  • Macerate (chop) plant parts in hot oil, then
    extract with alcohol
  • Enfleurage
  • flowers placed on layer of purified fat or oil
  • they are replaced every couple of weeks
  • yields outstanding scents, very expensive

http//www.museesdegrasse.com
4
  • Popularity of perfume waned in Europe after the
    fall of the Roman empire, returned with the
    crusaders
  • Distillation of essential oils
  • Attributed to Avicenna, Arab, late 900s

5
Distillation of natural fragrances
  • Plant parts are exposed to steam
  • Volatile oils are carried out in steam
  • Steam is cooled, oil floats and can be skimmed
  • 5-6 tons of roses needed to get one kilo of
    essential rose oil
  • Fractional distillation allows collection of
    substances with different volatility

6
Attars (steam distillates) being prepared in India
7
Perfumes in 18th century Europe
  • More flowery as opposed to heavier scents
  • Numerous ways to use perfumes, elaborate
    containers
  • Vinaigrettes
  • Pommanders go out of style with availability of
    liquid perfume

8
Eau de Cologne
  • Germany, invented an 1709 by an Italian barber
  • Rosemary, orange flower, and bergamot oils
    distilled in grape spirits
  • Non-greasy
  • Napolean decreed the formula must be public in
    1810

9
Grasse, in Provence, France
  • Started with tannery perfumes
  • for scenting gloves?
  • A local company got a patent on the distillation
    system
  • 1720s become a local industry
  • Good sources for jasmine, rose, orange
  • Modern perfume industry started here

10
Perfume odorant types today
  • Concretes
  • purest, soft plant parts are placed in solvent
  • Absolutes
  • concretes concentrated in alcohol
  • Resinoids
  • extracted like concretes, from plant secretions
  • Tinctures
  • direct extraction with ethanol
  • Distilled essential oils
  • most common modern methods

11
Perfume anatomy
  • Top notes
  • immediately perceived, highly volatile, bright,
    often citrus, ginger
  • Middle notes
  • a minute to an hour often rose, lavender
  • Bottom notes
  • often animal, resin scents, perhaps vanilla,
    sandlewood

12
Types of fragances
  • Perfume (22 essential oils)
  • Eau de Parfum (15-22)
  • Eau de Toilette (8-15)
  • Eau de Cologne (4)

13
Business of scents (perfumes)
  • 10-20 billion dollar industry
  • Only a few companies are doing smell R D
  • They work for two main client groups household
    products companies, and perfume companies
  • Lots of secrecy

14
Lavender
  • Mint family
  • Sterile hybrid of two species (L. angustifolia
    and L. latifolia) most often used today
  • Obtained by steam distillation
  • More than 300 components, linalool important
  • In many mens fragrances (fern note)

15
Rose
  • Rosa centifolia and damascena
  • Petals extracted with steam or solvents
  • Used in many perfumes, foods

16
Geranium
  • Pelargonium graveolens
  • Oils distilled from leaves and stems
  • Much cheaper than rose, similar fragrance in some
    types
  • Essence from Reunion island especially fruity
  • Also in drinks, insect repellent

17
Geraniol and related compounds
  • Found in a variety of plants
  • Also produced synthetically

18
Jasmine
  • Jasminum grandiflorum
  • Volatile solvents now used, used to be enfleurage
  • A ton of flowers to yield a kilo of essence
  • Extremely expensive
  • Wide range of jasmonoid compounds, biosynthesis
    perhaps similar to prostaglandins
  • Benzyl acetate and related compounds common

19
Tuberose
  • Polyanthes tuberosa
  • Amaryllis relative
  • Expensive, low yield to extract, done by
    enfleurage until relatively recently
  • Many fragrance compounds (eugenols, nerol) also
    some weird tuberose lactones

20
Orange
  • Citrus species
  • Flowers, leaves, fruits, even bark all used
  • Distillation or solvents used
  • Wide range of compounds isolated, including
    linalool

21
Bergamot
  • Citrus bergamia
  • Zests from unripe fruits used
  • Harmonious with many other compounds contains
    linalool, limonene does not dominate in this as
    it does in orange oil
  • Coumarins removed from essence (photosensitizing)
  • In Earl Grey tea, as well as perfumes, soaps
  • Eau de Colognes

22
Iris of Florence
  • Iris pallida
  • Violet-scented rhizomes (orris root) used to
    produce a concrete with iron in myristic acid
    (called a butter)
  • In perfume with heavy, woody notes

23
ylang-ylang
  • Cananga odorata, related plants
  • From SE Asia (?)
  • Annonaceae
  • Very floral scent
  • Several common compounds (eugenols, linalool)
    also
  • p-Cresyl methyl ether
  • stinks by itself, but blends well

24
Patchouli
  • Shrub in the mint family
  • Pogostemon cablin
  • Distilled dried leaves yield several important
    fragrances
  • Distinctive strong odor, but also mixes well

25
Vanilla
  • Native to Mexico, much now grown in Madagascar
  • More than 200 compounds have been identified
  • Extract used in small amounts in perfumes its
    very strong
  • Lots of synthetic vanillin relatives used

Vanillin analogs, some with carnation, cocoa
butter overtones
vanillin
26
Oakmoss
  • Evernia prunastri
  • A lichen found in much of Europe
  • Some constituents now synthesized

27
Olibanum (incense tree)
  • Resin from a Boswellia tree
  • Resinous, woody smell
  • Used in some perfumes (Opium, Jicky)

28
Fixatives
  • Various animal products
  • Ambergis, musk, castoreum, civet
  • synthetics often used now
  • e.g. ambergris compound from sage

29
Others
  • Ginger, cardamom, pepper (Piper nigrum), clove
  • Many more

30
Perfume themes
  • Floral
  • Chypre (bergamot, jasmine, oakmoss)
  • Aldehydic (most famous is Chanel No.5, described
    as piquant)
  • Fougerè (lavender, coumarin, oakmoss), often in
    mens products
  • Woody (sandlewood, patchouli, cedar)
  • Oriental (includes vanilla, ambergris)

31
Synthetic vs natural what are the issues?
  • The truth about fragrance oils
  • www.earthmamaangelbaby.com/fragrance_oils.html
  • Each essential oil comes from just one source, a
    living plant.  There are no chemicals involved.
  • Remember, they are all chemicals!
  • We may actually know more about the synthetic
    mixtures than the natural ones

32
Concerns
  • Toxicity to people?
  • Allergens?
  • Increasing asthma incidence?
  • Unknown compounds in the mix?
  • Persistence in the environment?
  • Example synthetic musk

33
Synthetic musk
  • May accumulate in some organisms (e.g. mussels),
    prevents removal of other toxins
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