Crampons

1
Crampons

• MITOC Winter School 2004
• Dan Walker
• (mostly copied from Ben Ingram)

2
Overview

• Introduction
• Crampon Types
• Fitting Crampons
• Using Crampons
• Caveats

3
Introduction

• What are crampons?
• Metal spike that attach to your feet
• Why Use Them?
• Give traction on ice or steep snow
• Cutting Steps Sucks
• Hobnailing your Boots is no Longer in Fashion

4
All You Need To Know

• NO!

• YES!

5
Crampon Types Number of Points

• Instep crampons (about six points on instep)
• Good for Emergencies
• 10/12 point crampons
• Standard Mountaineering Use

6
Crampon Types Flexibility

• Hinged
• More comfortable
• Tiring to front point
• Use with any boot

• Rigid
• Less comfortable
• Less tiring to front point
• Can only be used with rigid boots

7
Crampon Types Point Orientation

• Horizontal Front Points
• Better in snow and soft ice
• Less balling (Horizontal Rails)
• For general mountaineering

• Vertical Front Points
• Better in hard ice
• Can be Modular
• Dangerous balling (Vertical Rails)
• More Expensive

8
Crampon Types Attachment

• Straps
• Work with any boot
• Harder to put on in cold

• Step-in
• Only work with welted boots
• Easy to put on

9
Crampon Types Summary

• With mouse boots, use hinged, horizontal point,
  strap-on crampons like the black crampons with
  yellow straps or the old school crampons
• With Sorels, only the old school crampons fit

10
Fitting Crampons

• Fit is the extremely important. Crampons that
  fall off cause accidents and slow down the group.
• Adjust crampons at home
• Adjust length and instep width so that crampon
  holds boot without straps
• Strapping pattern
• Test crampon fit
• Practice putting on at home, so can put on with
  gloves or in cold

11
Crampon Ethics
1 Lustful/Gluttonous
2 Seducers
3 Thieves
4 Hypocrites
5 Sowers of Discord
Levels of Hell
6 Murderers
7 Traitors
8 Unadjusted Crampons
9 WMNF Denim-wearers
12
Crampon Use

• Two approaches
• Get as many points as possible into ground
• Flat-Footing
• Front pointing

13
Caveats

• Theyre sharp and put holes in clothing and packs
• Balling causes many accidents
• Dont glissade in crampons!
• Crampons are both Metal and Cold