Fragrance and the Mind

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Fragranceand theMind
SCC Continuing Education 2006
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STEVE HERMAN Director New Technology Manheimer
Fragrances steve.herman_at_mastertaste.com steve_at_ste
phen-herman.com www.stephen-herman.com 201-708-920
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OUTLINE 1

• History
• Human Chemoreception
• Age and Olfaction
• Fragrance Creation
• Fragrance Categories
• Natural Products

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OUTLINE 2

• Synesthesia
• Aromatherapy
• Aromascience
• Pheromones
• Business
• Resources

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HISTORY 1

• Ancient use-Sacred
• 1600 BC perfume made by maceration in Mesopotamia
• Circa 350 BC first book on perfume (Theophrasus
  of Athens
• Circa 1000 distillation of
  rose oil (Ibn Sian)

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HISTORY 2

• Distilling alcohol with serpentine cooler (Italy)
  15th Century
• 1370 Hungary Water
• 1533 Perfumery brought to
  France (Caterina DeMedici)
• 1710 Eau de Cologne (Farina
  Family)

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HISTORY 3

• 1771 Yardley founded
• 1775 Houbigant founded
• 1828 Guerlain Founded
• 1835 Solvent extraction of fragrance
  materials

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HISTORY 4

• Synthesis-Coumarin (1868)
• Fougere Royal (1882)
• Coal Tar- From 1880S
• 1893 Manufacturing Perfumers Association of
  the US founded

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HISTORY 5

• 1905 Coty founded
• 1947 American Society of
• Perfumers founded
• 1966 RIFM established
• RIFM - Starting testing 1971
• 1973 IFRA established

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JICKY

• AIMÉ GUERLAIN
• 1889

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KEY ELEMENTS
Discovery of two major synthetic
materials, coumarin (from Tonka) and
vanillin- more potent than vanilla tinctures.
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IMPORTANCE
Jicky laid the foundation of great French
perfumery. It marked the beginning of emotive
perfumery, which no longer attempted to imitate
the scent of flowers, but sought instead to
arouse emotions.
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UNISEX?
Men and women used the same fragrances,
sprinkled onto a handkerchief. Jicky seemed so
revolutionary that it was first directed at men,
then switched to women with a new bottle.
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Shalimar 1925
Jacques Guerlain was given a new chemical, ethyl
vanillin. Curious, he poured some into a bottle
of Jicky
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During development, it had the working name Taj
Mahal. Guerlain changed it to Shalimar, because
the Taj Mahal was the end of the story, while
the gardens of Shalimar where about a
never-ending love.
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SHALIMAR VS JICKY
Top

• Bergamot
• Lavender
• Rosemary
• Rosewood

• Bergamot

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SHALIMAR VS JICKY
Middle

• Rose
• Jasmine
• Geranium

• Rose
• Jasmine

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SHALIMAR VS JICKY
Bottom

• Tonka bean
• Opopanox
• Vanilla
• Coumarin

• Tonka bean
• Opopanox
• Vanilla
• Iris

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Chanel No. 5
FRAGRANCE CLASSIC

• Ernest Beaux
• 1921

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ERNEST BEAUX
Worked in Russia before 1914, created Rallet no.
1 Offered to Coco Chanel in 1921 as No.
5, relaunched 1925 by Wertheimer Group
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ALDEHYDE BLEND

• Aldehyde C-10
• Aldehyde C-11
• Aldehyde C-12 Lauric

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WHAT DO YOU WEAR TO BED?
Why, Chanel No. 5, of course.
MM to Sidney Skolsky, 1952
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2004
Nicole Kidman
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2 MINUTE COMMERCIAL The most expensive 60
second ad ever made, costing 12 million, with
Nicole being paid 10. Nicole is draped in 42
million dollars worth of diamonds,
wearingoutfits designed by Karl Lagerfeld.
Nicole plays the world's most famous woman on
the run from the paparazzi, escaping into the
arms of Rodrigo Santoro's character.
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HUMAN CHEMORECEPTION

• Olfactory System
• Trigeminal Nerve
• Volmeronasal Organ
• (VNO)

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SORs
STRUCTURE/ODOR RELATIONSHIPS

• Vibrational Theory-
  Wright, Turin
• Stereochemical Theory- Amoore

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JOHN AMOORE
MOLECULAR BASIS OF ODOR
CHARLES C. THOMAS 1970
Primary Odors Ethereal Camphoraceous Musky Floral
Minty Pungent Putrid
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LOCK KEY
Stereochemical Theory of Odor
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ANOSMIAS
Odor blindness- everyone has them , Amoore used
as tool to identify primary odors- ANOSMIARECEPT
OR
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LUCA TURIN
Vibration of molecules determines odor- details a
few slides down the road
The Emperor of Scent- Chandler Burr BBC Horizon
A Code in the Nose
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BUCK AXEL

• Cell Vol. 652, 175-187, April 5,1991
• Scientific American, October 1995

Sought the genes encoding odor receptor proteins
as a tool to study the structure and function
of the odor receptors themselves
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FINDING THE CODE
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CONSENSUS LOCATIONS
N
F3 MDSSNRTRVSEFLLLGFVENKDL QP F5
MSSTNQSSVTEFLLLGLSRQPQQQQ
TM1
IC1

LIYGLFLSMYLVTVIGNISIIVAI ISDPCLHT LLFLLFLIMYLATVLG
NLLIILAIGTDSRLHT
EC3
TM7
SSAANN SSQASATASVMYTVVTPMVNPFIYSL NPSSSHLAGRDMAAAV
MYAVVTPMLNPFIYSL
C
RNKDVKSVLKKTTLCEEVIRSPPSLLHFFLVLCHLPCFIFCY RNSDMKA
ALRKVLAMRFPSKQ
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TWO CLASSES OF HUMAN OLFACTORY RECEPTORS
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OLFACTORY GENES AND PSEUDOGENES
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WHATS NEXT?

• Translate into amino acids
• Form helical structure
• Snake through lipid membrane
• Identify receptor pockets

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CODONS

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CILIUM
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BIO-BATTERY
G X G X X G
L H S G C
(or GXGXXA)
6th coil
NADPH
Zn
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide Phosphate
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LUCA TURIN
Inelastic Electron Tunneling
NADPH
Energy gap
S-S
Zn
G-Protein
Receptor
Transduction Mechanism
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NADPH
-
SH
HS-

Zn
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G-PROTEIN BASICS

• On-off switch
• Signal amplification-
  step in the cascade

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CYCLING
GDP
GTP
Inactive
GDP
Active
G??
GDP
GTP
G?
Cycling of Go
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COMBINATIONS

• 3 Receptors in eye discriminate 100S of hues
• Nose- 450 receptors, 10,000 odors

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TRIUNE BRAIN
Limbic System
Neocortex
Olfactory Bulb
Reptilian Cortex
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OLFACTORY RESPONSE 2
Odor decoded in brain
Odor pattern formed
Odorant molecule triggers multiple receptor
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TRIGEMINAL NERVE
Hazardous chemical warning system- onions and
Mexican food...
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TRIGEMINAL NERVE
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Age Olfaction
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AGE

• molecules needed for detection increases
• Ability to discriminate declines in the 50s and
  60s
• Ability to identify odors decreases

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REASONS

• Normal aging
• Medication
• Disease
• Pollution

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FRAGRANCE CREATION
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VOLATILITY
For a molecule to have odor, MWappreciable vapor pressure at RT
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BASIC COMPOSITION
Jean Carles Evaluate volatility Construct
accords Build from bottom
up
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25
50
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CARLES BASE ACCORD
Oakmoss 9 8 7 6 5 Ambergris 1 2 3
4 5

• Selects 64, Needed Musk
• for Chypre Character
• Oakmoss
• Ambergris
• 1 Musk Ketone

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ADD MIDDLE

• Adds Floral and
• Animal Notes
• Absolute Rose
• Absolute Civit 10
• Oakmoss
• Ambergris
• 1 Musk Ketone

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TOP ADDED

• Pleasant, Highly Volatile
• Notes for Sparkle
• Sweet Orange Oil
• Bergamot
• Absolute Rose
• Absolute Civit 10
• Oakmoss
• Ambergris
• 1 Musk Ketone

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LINEAR FRAGRANCE
Up to 80 Single Accord- Unchanged for hours
EG. TRÉSOR- 80 Methyl Ionone Iso E
Super Hedione Galaxolide
Fresh Top Missing
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OTHER BALANCES

• More Top
• Cologne vs Perfume
• Heavy Top Balance-
• Candles, Soap
• Little Top, Mostly Bottom-Paper

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FIXATION

• Volatility
• Polarity
• Hydrogen bonding
• Concentration

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FRAGRANCE CATEGORIES
Polarome raw materials
Symrise genealogies
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A. THE CITRUS FAMILY
Features essential oils from expression of the
zest of fruits

• Citrus
• Floral Chypre Citrus
• Spicy Citrus
• Woody Citrus
• Aromatic Citrus

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B. THE FLORAL FAMILY
Principal Theme is a Flower

• Single Fragrance Floral
• Lavender
• Floral Bouquet
• Green Floral
• Aldehydic Floral
• Woody Floral
• Fruity Woody Floral

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C. THE FERN FAMILY
Notional Family- Lavender, Wood, Bergamot etc.

• Fern
• Sweet Oriental Fern
• Flowery Oriental Fern
• Spicy Fern
• Aromatic Fern

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D. THE CHYPRE FAMILY
Created 1917 by Coty Oak Moss, Labdanum,
Patchouli etc.

• Chypre
• Flowery Chypre
• Aldehydic Flowery Chypre
• Fruity Chypre
• Green Chypre
• Aromatic Chypre
• Leather Chypre

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E. THE WOODY FAMILY
Warm, Dry Notes Sandalwood, Patchouli, etc.

• Woody
• Citrus Conifer Woody
• Aromatic Woody
• Spicy Woody
• Leather Spicy Woody
• Oriental Woody

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F. THE ORIENTAL FAMILY
Sweet, Powder, Vanilla, Labdanum, Animal

• Woody Floral Oriental
• Spicy Floral Oriental
• Sweet Oriental
• Citrus Oriental
• Flowery Semi-Oriental

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G. THE LEATHER FAMILY
Dry Notes with Leather Smell, Floral Tops

• Leather
• Flowery Leather
• Leather Tobacco

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ONE MODERN SYSTEM
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CHARACTERISTICS

• Chypre
• Powder
• Sweet
• Vanilla
• Spicy
• Musky
• Ambery

• Citrus
• Green
• Fruity
• Watery
• Floral
• Herbaceous
• Woody

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FAMILIES
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CITRUS
GREEN

• Floral
• Green

• Orange
• Grapefruit
• Lemon/lime
• Cologne/tea

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AROMATIC
FOUGERE

• Soft aromatic
• Pine/eucalyptus

• Floral
• Fresh
• Woody

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MARINE
FRUITY

• Floral
• Fruity

• Apple/pear
• Melon
• Red fruit/berry
• Peach/apricot
• Tropical
• Floral

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FLORAL

• Green
• Fruity
• Rose
• White Floral
• Aldehydic
• Oriental
• Iris/violet

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POWDER ORIENTAL

• Amber
• Spicy
• Fruit

• Powder

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GOURMAND

• Coconut
• Vanilla
• Chocolate
• Nutty
• Spicy

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CHYPRE WOODY

• Chypre

• Woody

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NATURAL PRODUCTS
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NATURAL MATERIALS
Ethanol Solvent
Enfleurage Extraction
Extraction
Tincture Concrete
Pomade (resinoid)
Ethanol
Ethanol Extraction Extraction

Essential Oil Absolute
Deterpenation
Terpeneless Oil
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PARTS OF PLANT
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NATURAL OILS

• Distilled with water, steam, alcohol
• Solvent extraction
• Cold pressed
• Enfleurage-historic

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ENFLEURAGE

• Expensive Process
• Low Yield
• Used on two types
• of flowers
• Jasmin
• Tuberose

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DEFINITIONS
Essential oil Extracted by pressing or
steam distillation Concrete-Extracted
by solvent Absolute-Waxes in concrete
removed with alcohol
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STEAM DISTILLATION

• Material in tank (w/ water)
• Heat or steam
• Vapor condenses and is collected
• Essential oil separated from top of water phase

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STEAM DISTILLATION

• Consist mostly of lipophilic (hydrophobic),
  volatile materials
• Thermal decomposition and/or hydrolysis of
  components known to occur
• Levels of sophistication from direct fire field
  stills to pressurized and vacuum types
• EO yields from tenths to a few percent by weight

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EXTRACTIONS - CONCRETES

• Material extracted with volatile nonpolar solvent
• Solvent evaporated away in vacuo leaving
  concentrated product
• Contains plant waxes and other odorless
  fixatives (based on solubility in extraction
  solvent)

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CONCRETES

• Concrete is obtained
• from fresh plant matter
• and flowers which are
• non-resinous or low
• resinous materials.

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ABSOLUTES

• Absolutes are highly concentrated,
• they are entirely alcohol soluble, and
• are usually liquid materials.

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TRADITIONAL NATURAL SPECIALTIES

• Folded Oils via distillation
• Orange 5X, Orange 10X
• Isolates via distillation
• Citral, Eugenol, Nerolidol, Geraniol, Nootkatone

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NONTRADITIONAL NATURAL SPECIALTIES

• Fractions via technical distillation
• New olfactive characters
• Ylang Fraction G
• Patchouli Fraction
• Vetiver Fraction
• Reduction of specific materials
• Methyl eugenol
• Safrol
• Estragol

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YLANG OILS

• Main Growing areas
• Madagascar, Comores
• Description
• Short tree with yellowy-green flowers and
  carmine-red spots in the center
• Part of plant used
• Flower petals
• Harvest Time
• May to July and November to December

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YLANG OIL FRACTIONS
Fractions made during initial distillation
More woody spicy odor
More floral odor
Extra
First
Second
Third
Increasing Distillation Time
Decreasing Density (!)
Higher Ester Content
Complete
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NATURAL YLANG PRODUCTS

• Ylang Extra
• Contains more esters
• Ylang I
• Ylang II
• Ylang III
• Contains more phenolic, woody notes

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NATURAL PERFUMES

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EAU DE COLOGNE 1709
1 lb
Rose Oil 2 drams Melissa Oil
2 drams Neroli Oil 5 drams
Lavender Oil 6 drams Geranium Oil 8
drams Rosemary Oil 9 drams Lime Oil
1 oz Cedra Oil 2
oz Petitgrain Oil 2 oz Orange Oil
2 oz Lemon Oil 3
oz Bergamot Oil 4 oz
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HISTORIC SHIFT
The development of organic chemistry in Germany
in the late 1800s led to the synthesis of many
new aromatic materials
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POSSIBILITIES

• Natural
• Synthetics Existing in
  nature Not existing in
  nature

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ALL NATURAL BQT
Bergamot oil 20 Geranium oil
150 Palmarosa oil 200 Sunflower
oil 210 Turkish rose oil
50 Rosewood oil 150 Sandalwood oil
100 Vanilla absolute 10 Violet leaves
abs. 10 Ylang ylang oil 100
1000
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PROBLEMS WITH NATURALS

• Price
• Skin irritation
• Decomposition
• Discoloration

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THE CHANGING FACE OF NATURAL

• Traditional Definition
• Defined by suppliers themselves
• Obvious(?)
• Products derived from the plant kingdom, animals
  (or their secretions) via extraction, expression,
  or distillation without intentional chemical
  reaction or change

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THE CHANGING FACE OF NATURAL

• New Definition(s) for the 21st Century
• Defined by
• end user / consumer / marketplace
• Not as clear-cut
• Products obtained from the plant kingdom (or
  animals?) using entirely natural methods and
  materials such as heat and water

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CROP PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

• Traditional
• OK to use chemical fertilizers, pest control
  agents and irrigation to maximize yield and/or
  quality
• Organic
• Plantations conforming to organic standards
  allowing some natural fertilizers and/or pest
  control
• Beyond Organic Biodynamic
• Plantations planted for the purpose of harvest
  but left completely in the wild with no
  irrigation, pest control or fertilization

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AROMASCIENCE, AROMATHERAPY, PHEROMONES
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AROMASCIENCE
AROMASCIENCE AROMACHOLOGY Studies temporary
effects on emotions via olfactory pathways and
is a true science BUT IS NOT AROMATHERAPY,
Which presumes absorption into the bloodstream
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AROMATHERAPY
HISTORY

• 1904 Cuthbert Hall- Eucalyptus better antiseptic
  in natural form
• Rene-Maurice Gattefosse coined term in 1928-
  lavender healed burn
• Marguerite Maury- applied to beauty therapy

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AROMATHERAPY
MODES OF ACTION

• Pharmacological- chemical changes when essential
  oil enters blood stream
• Physiological- affects system by stimulating,
  tranquilizing etc
• Psychological- when inhaled

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d/2 TEST

• Concentration performance
• d/2 test of Brickenkamp
• Task Quickly and correctly distinguish between
  single, similar visual stimuli

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d/2 TEST
d d p d d d p p d
p
Mark all ds with two signs total top and bottom
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d/2 TOTAL TEST VALUE
514
501
474
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PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TEST
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PRACTICE TIME
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GAMBLING
Certain odors increased time spent in casinos-
Hirsch
Lingering effect
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DRIVING
Study at RPI indicated that lemon
increased driver alertness.
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WHEN IS AN ELEPHANT LIKE A BUTTERFLY?
O
CH3
Cis-7-Dodecenyl acetate pheromone for both!
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PHEROMONES
Greek PHERMO- I CARRY HORMONE- TO
EXCITE
VNO 1703 Ruysch- Affects hypothalamus, 1950S
Adolph Butenandt used term PHEROMONE, David
Berliner
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RELEASER PHEROMONES

• Sex
• Invitational
• Aggregation
• Dispersal
• Alarm

• Trail
• Territorial
• Surface
• Funeral

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VNO
Vestigial organ in man that may be receptor for
pheromones- also known as Jacobsons organ
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VNO
Olfactory Bulb
VNO
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NATURE VOL. 229, JAN. 21, 1971
Menstrual Synchrony and Suppression Martha
McClintock
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HUMAN PHEROMONES

• Androstenone
• Androstenal
• Copulins

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PIG PHEROMONES
CH3
Androstenone is the pheromone that makes a pig
dig for truffles.
CH3
O
Pig VNO Blocked, still responded to Androstenone
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COPULINS
Vaginal secretions C2-C5 aliphatic fatty
acids Change during menstrual cycle, send signal
for ovulation
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PROUSTIAN HYPOTHESIS
Odors not better memory cues,but they trigger
intense emotions. Smell can be forever linked to
a single event.
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SEX AND SMELL
Males rated visual and olfactory information
equal, while females considered olfactory
information the single most important variable
in mate choice.
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FOOD AND SX
Effect of scent on Penile blood flow
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FOOD AND SX
Effect of scent on Vaginal blood flow
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Synesthesia- The color of odors
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A ____ B ____ C ____ D ____ E ____ F ____ G
____ H ____ I ____ J ____ K ____ L ____ M
____ N ____
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2
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Name _______________________
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OLFACTION AND THE NEW SCIENCE OF THE BRAIN
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OLD METHODS

• Controlled studies
• Physiological measurements
• EEG
• PET scans

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PSYCHOGRAPHICS
Supplement conventional marketing data with
informed assumptions about personality traits
and human behavior gleaned from other
disciplines, including psychology, sociology,
and probability theory.
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NEUROMARKETING
The newest approach to sales, starting in the
October 14, 2004 issue of Neuron, using MRI.
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NEUROMARKETING
Researchers at Baylor study the Pepsi
Challenge find huge effect of Coke label on
brain activity related to control of actions,
memories, and self-image.
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COGNITIVE MODULATION
Subjects rated same odor, isovaleric acid, more
unpleasant if named body odor than if named
cheddar cheese
Cheesehead commercial
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OLFACTION VISION
Olfactory perception altered by visual clues
The Nose Smells What the Eye Sees
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THE BUSINESS OF FRAGRANCE
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Producers of raw materials
Creators/compounders of fragrance
Manufacturers of fragranced products
Retailers
Consumers
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BEGINING OF THE FRAGRANCE CHAIN
Raw Material Producers Fragrance Suppliers
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CUSTOMERS

• Major finished goods houses
• Marketers
• Private label manufacturers
• Entrepreneurs

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THE SHIFTING BURDEN
The past thirty years have shown a steady
progression of expecting marketing and technology
to come from fragrance suppliers
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FRAGRANCE COMPANY RESOURCES

• Creativity
• Service/Price
• Technical service
• Marketing
• New technology

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PERFUME JOBS

• Perfumer
• Sales, Customer Service
• Evaluation
• Marketing
• Applications/ RD
• QC
• Purchasing, Production

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PROJECT ESSENTIALS

• Target market
• Odor types/pricing
• Development timeline
• Product forms /bases/packaging
• Stability requirements

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PERCEPTION MAP
Trendy
Musk
Fruity
Male
Female
Oriental
Fougere
Floral
Classic
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RESOURCES
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WEB SITES

• Organizations
• Commercial
• Fragrance companies
• Academic

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ORGANIZATIONS

• rifm.org
• ifraorg.org
• fmafragrance.org
• perfumers.org
• fragrance.org
• monell.org
• senseofsmell.org
• http//www.achems.org

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COMMERCIAL

• www.leffingwell.com
• www.perfumelab.com
• www.flexitral.com
• www.allured.com
• www.perfumerflavorist.com
• http//www.scienceofsmell.com

158
FRAGRANCE SUPPLIERS

• www.givaudan.com
• www.iff.com
• www.firmenich.com
• www.questintl.com
• www.affintl.com

And many others!
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ACADEMIC

• www.hhmi.org/research/investigators/buck.html
• http//cpmcnet.columbia.edu/dept/neurobeh/axel/
• www.columbia.edu/cu/biology/faculty/firestein/
• www.brown.edu/Departments/Psychology/faculty/herz.
  html
• http//www.psy.fsu.edu/fsusri/