Wave Dynamics and Wind Waves

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Wave Dynamics and Wind Waves
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Ocean Waves

• Orbits
• Orbital waves
• Progressive wave

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• Wave Crest
• Wave Trough
• Wave Height
• Wave length
• Wave period
• Wave frequency

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Classifying waves

• Disturbing force
• Restoring force

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Classifying waves

• Free waves
• Forced waves
• Capillary waves
• Gravity waves

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Deep Water Waves and Shallow Water Waves

• Deep water waves
• Shallow water waves
• Transitional waves
• Wind waves
• Seismic Sea Waves

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Wind Waves

• Dispersion
• Swell
• Wave trains

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Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development

• Wind strength
• Wind duration
• Fully developed sea

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Wind Wave Height

• Wave steepness

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Interference and Rogue Waves

• Interference
• Destructive interference
• Constructive interference
• Surf beat
• Rogue Wave

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• Surf
• Surf zone
• Plunging waves
• Spilling waves

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• Wave refraction
• Wave refraction
• Wave reflection
• Standing waves
• Internal waves