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Fairchild Books

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In America, beaver was the most sought after fur at the turn of the 18th century. ... Mink holds a commanding lead with fox and beaver, in that order, behind it ' ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Fairchild Books


1
?2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
2
Leather and Fur
  • The Leather Industry
  • History and Development
  • Organization and Operation
  • Merchandising and Marketing
  • Trends in the Leather Industry
  • The Fur Industry
  • History and Development
  • Organization and Operation
  • Merchandising and Marketing
  • Trends in the Fur Industry

3
The Leather Industry
  • Leather and fur are the oldest, most sought
    after, and most glamorous of textiles.
  • Both leather and fur are animal skins
  • One side of the skin is leather, the other is
    fur
  • The leather industry is currently expanding its
    markets

4
Leather
  • Preparing leather is a specialized, time
    consuming effort
  • Orders require 8 to 16 months advance notice
  • The leather industry suffers less abuse than the
    fur industry from PETA as leather is mainly a
    by-product of the meat packing industry

5
Types of Tanneries
  • Regular
  • Purchase and process skins and hides into leather
  • Contract
  • Process skins and hides for converters, but are
    not involved in the final sale of the leather
  • Converters
  • Purchase skins and hides
  • Commission contract tanneries to process
  • Sell the finished product to manufacturers

6
Categories of Leather
  • Almost all leather comes from cattle. But the
    hides and skins of many other animals are also
    used in fashion apparel and accessories. There
    are nine major categories of leather
  • Exotic Leathers
  • Aquatic Frog, seal, shark, walrus
  • Land Camel, elephant, ostrich
  • Reptile Alligator, crocodile, lizard, snake

7
Classification of Pelts
  • Skins
  • Less than 15 pounds
  • Kips
  • More than 15 pounds, but less than 25 pounds
  • Hides
  • More than 25 pounds

Transforming these skins into leather requires
three to six months, utilizing a process called
TANNING
8
Leather Processing
  • Tanning can be accomplished through the use of
  • Minerals
  • Vegetables
  • Oils
  • Chemicals
  • A combination of the above

9
Merchandising and Marketing
  • Because of the long lead times involved, leather
    forecasters are among the best and most
    experienced in the industry
  • To protect and broaden the market leather
    producers constantly broaden their range of
    colors, weights, and textures

10
Leather Trade Associations and Trade Shows
  • Leather Industries of America (LIA)
  • Sponsors semiannual color seminars
  • Supports a Hide Training School
  • Sponsors a student design award
  • Trade Shows
  • Semaine du Cuir, ParisSeptember
  • Hong Kong International Leather FairJune
  • Tanners Apparel and Garment Show (TAG),
    NYCOctober

11
Trends in Leather
  • The leather industry has changed because of three
    trends
  • Enlarging market opportunities
  • Increased competition from synthetics
  • Increased foreign trade

12
Leather as a Fashion Force
  • The versatility of leather is a hit as a fashion
    force for sportswear and on the red carpet

13
Fur History and Development
  • By the Middle Ages, fur announced ones wealth and
    status
  • In America, beaver was the most sought after fur
    at the turn of the 18th century.
  • J.J. Astor owed his fortune to the trade
  • In 1900, the Chilean government backed a loan
    with chinchilla skins.

14
Fur History and Development
  • As beaver became scarce, Lincoln wore a silk hat
    to his inauguration
  • The demand for beaver hats ceased overnight
  • Demand for fur remained strong among women
  • Prince Edward Island, Canada started farming furs
    in 1880

15
Fur Fashions Change Slowly
  • Todays market reflects the most varied list of
    popular furs ever
  • Mink holds a commanding lead with fox and beaver,
    in that order, behind it
  • Contemporary furs, a new category, include
    raccoon, fox, beaver, coyote, muskrat, tanuki
    (Japanese raccoon) and nutria (South American
    beaver-like animal)

16
PETA vs. Fur Industry
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals
  • PETA has staged a variety of protests and pickets
  • Other groups have raided fur farms releasing the
    animals, or destroying pedigree documents
  • Still others have confronted consumers, throwing
    paint on women wearing fur coats

17
Fur Industry Has Responded Strongly
  • Their argument
  • Fur farms do not remove animals from the wild
  • 95 of fur used comes from humane trapping
  • Real fur does not use non-renewable
    petroleum-based products which pollute the
    environment

Faux furs have grown in both quality and hence
popularity recently.
18
Organization and Operation
  • Three groups represent the three stages of
    production
  • Trappers
  • Fur processing companies
  • Manufacturers of fur products

19
Pelt Production
  • Trappers are the primary source of wild animal
    pelts
  • The majority of furs come from farms or ranches
  • Fur pelts are sold at auctions, much like they
    were in the 13th century

20
Fur Product Manufacturers
  • Manufacturers contract with fur dressing and fur
    dyeing firms to process them
  • Processing steps are usually performed by hand,
    although technology is turning it into a more
    mechanical process, allowing the worker to deal
    with each individual pelts color, quality, and
    peculiarities
  • Innovations in 1989 by Fendi
  • All fur can be reversible
  • Lightweight, minimal bulk, fur that moves easily
    with the wearer

21
Retail Distribution of Fur
  • Happens in 1,500 stores nationwide
  • Leased departments in department stores are
    common
  • Consignment selling, where the fur manufacturer
    supplies merchandise to a retail store on loan,
    is another example of retail distribution in the
    fur industry
  • Note that retailers have both off the rack furs
    and maintain their own pelts for custom work

22
Merchandising and Marketing
  • The Fur Labels Product Act of 1952 required
  • English name of animal
  • Country of origin
  • Type of processing to which pelt was subjected
  • Whether or not parts have been cut from less
    desirable paw or tail sections

23
Trade Associations Fur Fairs
  • The leading trade association is the Fur
    Information Council of America (FICA). They
    represent retailers and manufacturers.
  • American Legend Cooperative is a mink ranchers
    association combining two major mink producing
    groupsEmba Mink Breeders Association (EMBA) and
    Great Lakes Mink Association (GLMA).
  • Designers, manufacturers, retailers,
    import/exporters, wholesalers, and the media all
    attend one or more of the leading international
    fur fairs. They are held in Tokyo, Hong Kong,
    Milan, Moscow, Frankfurt and Montreal.

24
Four Trends in Fur
  • Renewed fashion interest in furs
  • Increased foreign trade allowed for exports of
    high quality U.S. pelts
  • Legislation protects endangered species to the
    detriment of non-endangered species
  • New channels of distribution widen the audience
  • Mail order
  • Hotel, armory and arena sales

25
Elegant or Rock Roll
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