Colloids and SurfacePhenomena Aspects Of Make Up and Lipstick.

1

• Colloids and SurfacePhenomena Aspects Of Make Up
  and Lipstick.
• Group Members
• CHAIN, KOK KEONG
• LE, DIEUHANH THI
• MCLAUGHLIN, KELLY E
• VAN NATTER, RAINEE M
• Date 18th April 2002

2
Introduction

• Definition of Cosmetic Ingredients
• Overview of Customer Requirements
• Role by Polymer and Surfactants
• Application in Cosmetic Products
• Eye shadow and Blush
• Lipstick
• Liquid Cream
• Pressed Powder for both pale and dark skin

3
Overview of Cosmetic

• Consumer aspect
• High quality
• Safe or non allergic
• Reasonable Price
• Multiple Performance
• Long Wearing

4
Role by Polymer And Surfactant

• Polymer
• gel like, long chain carbon with cross-linked
  conformation
• Encapsulation
• Firm distribution
• High internal surface areas, ideal sorption and
  desorption mechanism
• Surfactant
• hydrophilic head group hydrophobic tail
• Emollients, wetting agents, and emulsifying
  agents,humectants
• To promote lubricant, adhesiveness, slip and
  covering purposes

5
What are pressed powder properties?

• Slip
• Spread Easily, smooth feeling
• Rhapsody, Zinc Stearate
• Adhesiveness
• Cling Together
• Zinc Stearate, Octyl Palmitate
• Other Ingredients
• Coloring Pigments, Iron Oxide
• Shininess Appearance
• Not over darkness and chalkiness

6
Pressed Powder for both pale and dark skin
7
Action and Mechanism

• Zinc Stearate
• Zn (C18H35O2)2,
• long hydrocarbon chain
• ideal physicals
• lt 6 of moisture, alkaline, soluble in mineral
  oils
• promoting the powder flow ability
• reduced the interfacial tension
• Octyl Palmitate
• as liquid binder,
• provide cohesion
• as emulsifier, emollients
• Iron Oxide
• (Fe2O3) , Color Pigment

8
How to Produce make up?

• Guidelines by Ultra. Chemical Inc.
• pulverize or to crush Rhapsody talc in to powder
  form
• compress them into pan utilizing (200psi
  2000psi )

9
Lipsticks

• Purpose
• Protect lips from hard weather
• Color lips
• Objectives
• Variation in color from application to
  application
• Lasts all day
• Removable with cleansers
• Basic categories of lipsticks
• Matte heavy in wax and pigment but lighter in
  emollients.
• Gloss less wax and more oil to make the lips
  shinier.
• Long lasting contains silicone oil, which seals
  the color the lips.
• Satin combination of gloss and matte lipsticks.
• Frosted include a pearl zing agent that adds
  luster to the color.

10
Lipsticks

• Example of Lipsticks, Matte
• Formulation composition
• Components Range by wt Preferred by wt
• Candellela Wax 3.0-9.0 3.0
• Ozokerite 1.0-4.0 1.0
• Paraffin wax 2.0-5.0 2.0
• Isosteryl Isostearated 2.0-10.0 10.0
• Ultrapure HMP-S 8.0-10.0 10.0
• Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 2.0-10.0 10.0
• Castor Oil QS 51.6
• Propyl Paraben 0.10 0.10
• Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1-1.0 0.10
• Colorants DC 7 CA lake 0.0-4.0 0.30
• Red Oxide 0.0-3.0 1.5
• Rhapsody Talc 4M 2.0-10.0 10.0
• Total 100.0
• Ultra Chemical Inc.

11
Lipsticks

• Function of Ingredients
• Emollients
• a. Castor oil-extracted from castor plant
• b. Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride-oily liquid
  extract from plant vegetable oil and dairy fats.
• c. Isostearyl Isostearate
• 2. Emulsifiers
• a. Paraffin Wax-derived from petroleum
• b. Ozokerite Wax-ceresin wax, naturally occurs
  in mineral wax.
• Preservatives
• a. Propyl Parahen-propyl-4-hydroxylbenzoate and
  prepare from p-bromophenol
• Colorants
• a. DC Red 7 CA lake
• b. Red Oxide
• c. Ultrapure HMP-S
• Binders
• a. Candellia wax

12
Lipsticks

• Processing
• 1. Heat the ingredients to 75-85degree Celsius
• 2. Mix until the batch is smooth and
  uniform

13
LipstickShapes, packaging and price
14
Eyeshadow Rouge
40 sec

• Purpose
• To provide color
• Requirements Objectives
• Contain pigments
• Adhere to skin
• Have adequate slip to spread onto skin
• Limited solubility in perspiration (to avoid
  streaking), but easily removable with cleansers
• Safe for eyes (preservatives)

15
Forms
25 sec
Solid, creamy
Dry, Compact

• Liquid suspension/emulsion

Solid, stick
16
Rouge/Eyeshadow Ingredients
(Brief Overview Slide)

• Filler
• Pigments and Opacifiers
• Binders
• Emulsifiers
• Emollients
• Preservatives
• Absorbents
• Perfume Carriers
• Viscosity controllers/thickeners

17
Main Ingredients
Talc already discussed (kkc) -dont describe in
detail Below esters and oils

• Dry, Compact Cosmetics
• Talc (3MgO4SiO2H2O) (Filler)
• Slip and shine due to lamellar structure
• Very soft
• White
• Adheres to skin evenly
• Liquid/Gel Rouges
• Water (Solvent)
• Cream/Solid Cosmetics
• Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Solvent
  Emollient)
• Octyl Palmitate (Binder Emollient)
• Mineral Oil (Binder)
• Castor Oil (see Lipsticks)

(Marmion, Sagarin 223-224)
18
Pigments Opacifiers
15 sec

• Purpose
• To provide the color for the cosmetic
• Opacifiers increase the opaqueness (coverage) of
  the applied cosmetic color
• Objectives
• Should not change color, bleed, or streak with pH
  changes, water, or oil (perspiration)
• Should not fade significantly when exposed to
  light
• Be heat stable
• Be easy to add into product
• Be non-toxic
• All pigments of same particle size

(Sagarin 229-235, Poucher III 283)
19
Common Inorganic Pigments
5 sec- refer them to web site
(Marmion 99-111, Sagarin 228,233, PCI, Jones)
20
Binders, Emulsifying Agents, Surfactants, and
Emollients

• Binders
• Provide cohesion of powders
• Emulsifying Agents/Surfactants
• Promote the mixing of otherwise immiscible
  liquids
• Lower surface tension, promoting more even mixing
• Emollients
• Soften and smooth the skin
• Many cosmetic ingredients serve more than 1 of
  these purposes, and thus they have been combined
  for the purpose of listing ingredients.

(European Commission, Sagarin 257)
21
Common Binders, Emulsifying Agents, Surfactants,
and Emollients
Only discuss those found in sample formulation
that I pick

• Zinc and Magnesium Stearate (dry binder)
• Caprylic/capric triglyceride (solvent/emollient)
• Octyl Palmitate (binder/emollient)
• Mineral Oil (binder/emollient)
• Petroletum (binder/emollient)
• Squalane (liquid binder/emollient)
• Isopropyl myristate (liquid binder)
• Waxes (binders/emulsion stabilizers/emollients/vis
  cosity controlling agents)
• Castor Oil (see lipsticks)

(European Commission, Sagarin
227,256-258,288,390, Poucher I 50,344)
22
Preservatives Absorbents

• Preservatives
• Purpose
• Inhibit the growth of micro-organisms
• Examples
• Parabens (esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid)
• Glyceryl Monolaurate
• EDTA
• Imidazolidinyl Urea
• Absorbents
• Purpose Absorb water/oil.
• Examples Magnesium carbonate, Kaolin
• Perfume Carriers
• Examples Magnesium carbonate, Chalk

(Product Dictionary), (European Commission)
23
Compact Powder Eyeshadow
Filler 64.7 Pigment 22.6 Liquid
Binder 10.5 Solid Binder 2.0 Preservatives 0.6

Talc (Filler) 64.7(wt) Ultramarine Blue
(Pigment) 20.0 Octyl Palmitate (Liquid
Binder) 7.0 Squalane (Liquid Binder) 3.5 Iron
Oxides (Pigment) 2.6 Zinc Stearate (Solid
Binder) 2.0 Glyceryl Monolaurate
(monoglyceride) (Preservative) 0.5 EDTA
(Preservative) 0.1 (Ultra Chem)
Procedure1. Mill, grind, mix dry powder
ingredients2. Spray liquid phase into powder
while mixing3. Distribute 4. Press5. Dry
(Ultra Chem), (Sagarin 258-261)
24
Liquid/Gel Rouge
Water (softened or distilled) 67 Glycerin
(solvent) 19 Diethylene glycol monostearate
(emulsifier) 4.3 Cetyl alcohol
ethoxylate 2.9 Titanium dioxide 2-3 Pigment 2
.0 Iso-Propyl myristate (binder) 1.9 Cetyl
alcohol (emulsifier/emollient) 0.48 Perfume
0.2 Methyl paraben (preservative) 0.15 Bromo
acid (colourant) 0.02
Water 67 Other Solvents 19 Pigment 4.5
Emulsifiers 9.6 Perfumes 0.2 Preservatives 0.
15
Procedure

1. Heat and mix emulsion base.
2. Dissolve methylparaben in glycerin by heat
   (separate vessel).
3. Add water to glycerin and heat to 75C.
4. Add water-glycerin mixture to emulsion base with
   slow, continuous stirring.
5. Allow to cool with continuous stirring.
6. Add perfume and pigment, including titanium
   dioxide, to mixture and mix well.

(Poucher III 284)
25
Solid (stick) Rouge
Castor Oil 77.4 Candelilla wax 9.9 Carnauba
wax 2.7 Color 10.0 Perfume q.s.
(Processed similar to lipstick)
(Sagarin 254)
26
Cream-Solid Eyeshadow
Binders/Emollients/ Emulsifiers 82.0 Pigme
nt 18.5 Perfumes 0.5 Preservatives 0.03

• Procedure
• Heat together non-wax binders/emulsifiers/emollien
  ts
• Mix in preservatives and pigments
• Melt waxes and add with lustre pigments to base
  mixture
• Cool, and add perfume
• Pour into moulds and allow to set

(Poucher III 294)
27
Mascara
Solvent 69.7 Waxes 14.0 Pigments 12.0 P
olyethylene 4.2
Isoparaffin (Solvent) 69.7 Pigments 12.0 Beeswax
5.4 Ozokerite wax 5.4 Polyethylene
4.2 Carnauba wax 2.0 Microcrystalline wax 1.2
Procedure1. Mix polyethylene with about half
the solvent2. Heat to about 100C with
stirring3. Add remainder of solvent4. Cool
rapidly5. Add the pigments and melted waxes, and
mixed thoroughly.
(Poucher III 305)
28
Properties of Liquid Cream

• Cover blemishes in skin
• Even skin tone and texture
• Does not rub off
• Removable with cleansers

29
Liquid Cream Composition
30
Function of Ingredients

• Humectants
• Reduce drying out of cream
• Moisturize skin
• Plasticize product
• Control texture
• Emulsifiers
• Create stable mixture of oil and water

31
Function of Ingredients

• Emollients
• Smooth skin
• Soften skin
• Gums
• Protective colloid
• Suspending agent
• Film formation

32
Function of Ingredients

• Vehicle
• Deionized water
• Filler/Matrix
• Talc, Rhapsody 4M
• Colorants
• Add color
• Iron oxides and titanium dioxide

33
Function of Ingredients

• Fragrances
• Preservatives

34
Processing

• Add deionized water to kettle and water phase
  ingredients
• Disperse gums and pigments
• Heat to 75 deg C
• Combine oil phase ingredients separately
• Heat to 70 deg C

35
Processing

• Add oil phase to water phase
• Cool to 35 deg C
• Add fragrance and preservatives
• Cool to 28 deg C

36
Product -gt Market -gt Consumer

• Marketing Techniques
• Advertisement
• Visual, internet
• Odor, magazine
• Free Sample
• Counseling
• Product advice
• Consumer research
• questionnaires
• Efficiency

37
Cosmetics Labeling

• Manufactures of cosmetics must print certain
  information on the labels of each product
• The identity of the product
• The net quantity in metric units
• The name and address of the manufacturer or
  distributor
• Any warnings or cautions necessary for the
  safe use of the product.

38
Labeling

• Types of labels
• White labels
• Clear labels
• Labels on the bottles

39
Conclusion

• Characteristics of Polymer and Surfactant
• Suspension of cosmetic ingredients
• Favorable adhere to skin
• Eye shadow and Blush
• Color binders (dry compact), emulsifiers
  (gel/cream)
• Lipstick
• Color Waxes and vegetable oils as emulsifiers
• Liquid Cream
• Emulsifiers, preservatives
• Face Powder
• Reduce interfacial tension, adhere, slip

40
References
Andersen, Kristin. Cosmetic Colorants.
Healthwell. Penton Media (04 Apr 2002).
http//www.healthwell.com/hnbreakthroughs/apr98/co
lorants.cfm. European Commission Enterprise DG
UNIT F/3 - Biotechnology, Competitiveness in
Pharmaceuticals, Cosmetics. The International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. (23 Oct
2001). http//eudrams1.is.eudra.org/F3/home.html
- Inventory of Cosmetic Ingredients Jones, Mr.
Photographic Chemical Descriptions. (23 Mar
2001). http//www.speakeasy.org/mrjones/chemdesc.
htm - photographic chemical site, used to get
pigment color of ferric ferrocyanide Marmion,
Daniel M. Handbook of U.S. Colorants for Food,
Drugs, and Cosmetics. 2nd Ed. John Wiley Sons
(1984). Paint and Coatings Industry (PCI). (Iron
Oxide Information) http//www.pcimag.com/CDA/Artic
leInformation/features/BNP_Features_Item/0,1846,13
449,00.html. Poucher, W.A., and G.M. Howard.
Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. Vol. I. 8th Ed.
Chapman and Hall (1974). Poucher, W.A., and G.M.
Howard. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. Vol. III.
8th Ed. Chapman and Hall (1974). Product
Dictionary. Make Me Up (2000).
http//www.emakemeup.com/ingredients.html - List
and short description of cosmetic ingredients
Sagarin, Edward, Ed. Cosmetics Science and
Technology. Interscience Publishers (1957). Ultra
Chemical Inc. Pressed Eyeshadow, Matte. (2000).
http//www.ultrachem.com/formulations/pressedeyesh
adow.html. Walgreens. http//www.walgreens.com. -
Cosmetics photos.